HELP - PTR buffer removal!!!!

[Calplinker]

Just got a heavy buffer to replace the stock one. Also looking to replace the green furniture with some nice HK walnut ones. Got the stock off the rifle and the two screws out that hold the buffer in place.

Also got the butt plate off and now the third screw that holds the buffer in place is kicking my butt. This is the one that you have to access from the rear of the stock after removing the butt plate. It requires a very long handled flat head screwdriver. I have a variety of these, but the screw seems to be welded in place!!!!

I've soaked it in WD-40 and even using a crescent wrench for leverage on a square shaft screwdriver, that screw is not budging. Worse yet, the screw head is starting to round over

Any advice?

Right now, I'm thinking of band sawing the stock in half so I can get access to the screw head. I can file flats on each side, then use an impact wrench to remove the sucker.

I understand that this third rear screw is not even needed??

[rman]

weird, PTRs typically dont have that 3rd screw. just the 2 smaller ones


-Armand
Sent from my Apple Galaxy Note 7

[Joe Blowitup]

I have had two ptr's and one had two and the other had three screws. I had to put the stock in a vice and use the screwdriver and crescent combo and eventually it came off. you have to break the locktite loose. you should get the buffer from rtg but will have to drill the wood stock to fit the bigger buffer.

[Calplinker]

3rd screw

I have had two ptr's and one had two and the other had three screws. I had to put the stock in a vice and use the screwdriver and crescent combo and eventually it came off. you have to break the locktite loose. you should get the buffer from rtg but will have to drill the wood stock to fit the bigger buffer.

Must have been a lot of locktite as it never did budge, even after I cut the plastic GI stock off with a bandsaw and tried an impact driver. Clamped in a vice and over 100 foot pounds of torque and that screw wasn't moving.

Finally used a cut off wheel and just cut through the screw and stock port buffer to get it apart.

Drilling out the hole in the wooden stock to hold the bigger/longer RTG buffer was easy. Went together nicely. A couple of coats of BLO on the walnut really popped the grain and now the rifle looks the way that it should. The CETME cheek riser fits very nicely and should give me a good cheek weld with a scope.