Bit of a silly question - how to clean your brake

[hardlyworking]

Maybe silly isn't the right word, trivial may be better...

How do you clean your muzzle device? Or do you even bother?

Specifically the ones like Battlecomp and the Griffin Arms. They look like they'd get all full of crap and then stop working eventually, and only have tiny access holes to get in and try to clean that large central cavity.

Especially on a pinned/welded brake for 16" OAL on a shorter barrel, where you can't just unscrew it and drop it in a bucket of solvent.

[subterfuge]

There is burning hot gas blasting through those holes at a higher pressure than you could ever hope to replicate. Erosion can be an issue over time. Don't worry about cleaning your brake.

[Merc1138]

There is burning hot gas blasting through those holes at a higher pressure than you could ever hope to replicate. Erosion can be an issue over time. Don't worry about cleaning your brake.

Pretty much this. Unless you've got something abnormal going on, you shouldn't have to clean your brake. A little carbon build up will just come right back after a few shots anyway but should never amount to much.

Same as the gas tube. Unless you're superman, you won't be doing anything that the really hot high pressure gas wouldn't do, unless there was some other problem going on.

edit: You might also get some greenish build up, but that's just copper and shouldn't ever amount to much either.

[Gutz]

I use a bristled brush and a bit of CLP... Then wipe off.

[bsumoba]

you can do a general cleanup with those "medical" grade q-tips that leave very little residue or cotton.

i know there is some literature out there stating that brakes will last about 10-12K due to erosion from the hot gases and general wear and tear.

that being said, i have comps with big holes so mine are easier to clean.

[hardlyworking]

Thanks for the fast answers guys!

[joelogic]

I use brake cleaner and a brush. Sometimes a stainless steel dental pick.

[pterrell]

CLP and a cleaning brush. Gets enough of the grime and carbon off for me.

[mod1217]

With all the brakes out there you manage to ask two out of 3 breaks that i know you really have to clean.

I have Battlecomp 2.0 and Griffin Arms both I clean by cleaning the barrel first, then turning the riffle upside down and blowing the inside with Rem Action Cleaner (making sure no liquid goes into the barrel) then compress air, then run a patch of Rem Oil down the barrel to make sure the end of the barrel has at least a coating of oil. In regards to Noveske KX3 just remove the clip then cone then clean it with Action Cleaner then put it back together.

Be advice only the Noveske is the one I clean after every range trip the Battlecomp and Griffin I clean every 1000 rds.

[Stewdabaker23]

Some cleaner and an air compressor with a blow gun.

[Khromo]

I use brake cleaner and a brush...

Me, too. I don't have any brakes with small holes, but pipe cleaners would probably be fine if I did. Brake cleaner is some effective stuff for that kind of job.

As subterfuge pointed out, the natural function of the gun are going to keep them open and operating. Cleaning them makes then look neater, but they'll work fine with almost no cleaning.

[gwgn02]

Brake Kleen

[tal3nt]

I know they're totally different platforms, but I had a muzzle device on a 9mm carbine, and after a thousand or so rounds, the comp holes became crudded up and COMPLETELY changed my point of impact.

Since then, I decided to clean my AR muzzle brake after every shooting (PWSFSC556). It's easy enough, and if you don't wait until every 1k rounds or so, you won't ever get that severe build up that can be a pain to remove.

[xxINKxx]

Dip the end of the barrel/brake in a bottle of hoppes #9.

That's what we do in AZ when running a suppressor. After several thousands of rounds un cleaned the brake/flash hider turns green. Like the Statue of Liberty green lol.