Jard AR Trigger Problem

[dfletcher]

I chose a Jard adjustable AR trigger for my 2nd build. Having a problem with it and would like some opinions. Here's the background. Note: The Jard is different from the regular AR fire control because althought it's a single stage the sear engagement & disconnector set up is similar to a 2 stage - it really functions more like a M1A/Mini 14 re sear engagement & disconnector. The disconnector is adjustable in that it can be screwed up & down for more/less engagement.

First, I installed the hammer & trigger EXACTLY as the instructions state. Then, turned the sear adjustment screw (mounted through the frame's pistol grip threaded hole) until the hammer drops then backed it off a 3/4 turn. Adjusted the disconnector so it hooks but doesn't hold the hammer when the trigger is released. I did a few "non - firing" function tests to ensure the sear engagement is sufficient. I let the bolt fly a few dozen times, the hammer stays back fine, no "following the bolt". I checked the disconnect - push the hammer all the way back with trigger pulled, the disconnector engages. Release trigger, the disconnector releases the hammer which engages the sear. Then press trigger, hammer falls.

So, get to the range and the 1st shot goes "bang". Gun cycles, loads a new round - but the hammer has followed the bolt. Did this a few times with same result. I adjusted the sear engagement for max engagement - you could toss it off a building and it wouldn't release. Next round goes bang, hammer still followed the bolt. I checked for short stroking by loading 1 round in the mag -goes bang, the bolt stayed open and the empties got quite a ride - so it's not short stroking.

Now here is (I think) an important point. When I pull the trigger and deliberately keep it pulled to the rear - as in quick trigger pull, don't release trigger at all - the disconnector engages. The hammer is held back by the disconnector, I can release the trigger and the hammer engages the sear and I can fire a 2nd round.

Anyone have experience with this trigger and an opinion as to what's wrong? Since the hammer does not fall off the sear, I'm assuming the problem must be with the disconnect and would focus on that.

[-hanko]

JARD, Inc. - 2737 Nettle Ave. - Sheldon, IA 51201 - PH. 712-324-7409

E-mail: jardinc@excite.com

I'd be interested to know their reply.

-hanko

[!@#$]

what # disconector spring do you have?
get the 3# spring if you go lower doubles and hammer follow is common with the jard.

[dfletcher]

what # disconector spring do you have?
get the 3# spring if you go lower doubles and hammer follow is common with the jard.

I don't have the item in front of me, but I know the trigger spring is 2 lbs. I didn't know the disconnector spring had a # designation. If doubles and hammer follow throughs are typical Brownells can have this one back. At least in getting the Jard I learned I can use a 1/4 X 28 LPI screw (same as the PG screw) through the PG screw hole to adjust sear engagement on my plain old regular AR fire trigger.

[50BMGBOB]

My Jard didn't have this but the reset wasn't strong enough and I had to push the trigger forward to fire the next shoot. I had the 1.5lbs trigger in my HAR25. I ordered the sping kit with several spings and ended up with the 2lbs spring. The Jard, also 1.5lbs, in my AR15 worked fine. I know this is differant than your issue but my point is, with a lite trigger it may take a little tuning to get a reliable trigger. Try a stronger disconect spring. It sounds like you are being safe in getting it set up. Just don't lose patients.

[Sig226]

I just, as in last week, installed a 2Lb Jard in my AR-15.

First, let me say, I fought with this trigger for some time before I even had it close to functional---all the while having great trigger pull "properties".

On that note, I now love this trigger!



So, what I would suggest is that you back out the disconnecter screw as much as possible without unthreading it, then turn it in 1/4 turn. (This will engage the disconnecter as much as possible.) Now run your function test to ensure the disconnecter works.


You may find that even though your trigger has reset to its normal position the disconnecter is still engaged. At this time, slowly screw in the disconnecter screw until the hammer falls and catches the sear engagement. (I actually went another 1/4 turn past this mark.) That should fix your current problem...

You may (most likely), will need to "re-calibrate" the sear engagement screw, and the overtravel screw---however you should be very close to that "glass rod" 2LB trigger you had hoped for right then and there.

Also, when you go to the range to test out your new settings---bring blue (maybe even red) locktite with you. You will want to locktite all the setscrews--- the disconnecter and safety set screws being the "most important" to safety, and the others most important to keeping your trigger "perfect" and as you set it.

Also, I will suggest that you might want to test your rifle on BLM land, or on a quiet day at the range---as other people have said, this trigger will double if set improperly. You don't want ATF coming over claiming you have a FA rifle because your set screw is out 1.5mm too far.

(FA = more than one bang for *each* trigger pull.)

Like I said before, I LOOOVE this trigger now that I have it set right.

[dfletcher]

I just, as in last week, installed a 2Lb Jard in my AR-15.

First, let me say, I fought with this trigger for some time before I even had it close to functional---all the while having great trigger pull "properties".

On that note, I now love this trigger!



So, what I would suggest is that you back out the disconnecter screw as much as possible without unthreading it, then turn it in 1/4 turn. (This will engage the disconnecter as much as possible.) Now run your function test to ensure the disconnecter works.


You may find that even though your trigger has reset to its normal position the disconnecter is still engaged. At this time, slowly screw in the disconnecter screw until the hammer falls and catches the sear engagement. (I actually went another 1/4 turn past this mark.) That should fix your current problem...

You may (most likely), will need to "re-calibrate" the sear engagement screw, and the overtravel screw---however you should be very close to that "glass rod" 2LB trigger you had hoped for right then and there.

Also, when you go to the range to test out your new settings---bring blue (maybe even red) locktite with you. You will want to locktite all the setscrews--- the disconnecter and safety set screws being the "most important" to safety, and the others most important to keeping your trigger "perfect" and as you set it.

Also, I will suggest that you might want to test your rifle on BLM land, or on a quiet day at the range---as other people have said, this trigger will double if set improperly. You don't want ATF coming over claiming you have a FA rifle because your set screw is out 1.5mm too far.

(FA = more than one bang for *each* trigger pull.)

Like I said before, I LOOOVE this trigger now that I have it set right.

I know the sear engagement and the disconnector have to be "balanced" to properly work. The instructions say to turn in the screw (through PG) until the hammer falls, then turn back a 3/4 turn. Sounds like that didn't work for you - where did you end up on sear engagement?

Re setting the disconnector, I did back out the set screw so far as possible and of course when the back end of the hammer engages it, it's hooked and won't let go. I then turned down the screw until the hammer just slips free, but is caught by the sear. Are you suggesting trying it with the disconnector so fully engaged that (in theory) it won't let loose of the hammer? My presumption is the action will cycle and the hammer will be stuck on the disconnector.

And BTW, the "sort of FA" experience crossed my mind. I guess given a choice of blasting through a 30 round mag all at once or the single shot version, I chose the single shot. At least on a crowded range.

Thanks for the help.

[ar15barrels]

Are you "light holding" the rifle?
It's quite common for people with new lightweight triggers to not hold the rifle as firmly as in the past.
This lets the gun bounce in your hand and results in doubling and hammer follow.
Once you figure out you are doing this, it's easy to correct.
Just hold the gun a little harder.

[dfletcher]

Are you "light holding" the rifle?
It's quite common for people with new lightweight triggers to not hold the rifle as firmly as in the past.
This lets the gun bounce in your hand and results in doubling and hammer follow.
Once you figure out you are doing this, it's easy to correct.
Just hold the gun a little harder.

I don't think so and haven't had the problem on any other semi autos, but I guess it's something to keep my eye on. My gut feeling is the disconnector has to be played with.