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  • e980752
    Member
    • Dec 2012
    • 294

    anodized Ar-lower

    Can any body help i want to buy a lower but only thing i found was 80% Lower DIY. Can any one help how to anodized or even paint it, or if there a place that does in am in norther California by Monterrey
    "A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government."
    - George Washington
  • #2
    Jason25
    Vendor/Retailer
    • Jan 2013
    • 999

    Theres some info you can find in some of the forums here about anodizing. Ive seen it but cant remember which forum. You need to make sure its a forged lower.

    Comment

    • #3
      that guy
      Member
      • Jun 2009
      • 201

      Originally posted by Jason25
      You need to make sure its a forged lower.
      That is not accurate, billet lowers can also be anodized. Anodizing is a process of converting the top layer of aluminum into a hardened, corrosion resistant aluminum oxide. It does not matter if it is forged.

      There is something to be said for a forged lower being stronger, and therefore the better choice, but generally the machined billet lowers are made thicker to make up for lower material allowables, so again it is 6 of one half dozen of the other. In the current panic climate, I would not be picky.

      A pre-anodized lower will make life more interesting, but again if it were me, I would not be picky.

      If you can, find a local metal coating shop that provides anodizing. If you can run your parts through with a batch of other parts, then you might be able to get the anodizing done for a reasonable price. I have gotten this done for $20 to $40 per piece in the San Diego area. The current group buy for anodizing a (very large) batch of DIY lowers is $16 per piece (also San Diego area).

      You can also spray on either duracoat, or alumahyde, both of which provide some toughness, corrosion, and wear resistance. I would go with anodizing if you can, because it actually hardens the top layers of aluminum material.

      I hope you can find a local vendor who is willing to work with you.
      "don't be that guy"...
      Originally posted by tenpercentfirearms
      You are "that guy". "That guy" that takes things to far and ruins them. Your thread is a pathetic, unoriginal copy. Don't be "that guy". I predict your thread goes away. You are "that guy".

      LOL! Your thread is already gone. You are "that guy"!

      Comment

      • #4
        SFCRangerDoc
        Senior Member
        • Nov 2012
        • 829

        ^^^^ This
        sigpic

        Comment

        • #5
          Jason25
          Vendor/Retailer
          • Jan 2013
          • 999

          Originally posted by that guy
          That is not accurate, billet lowers can also be anodized. Anodizing is a process of converting the top layer of aluminum into a hardened, corrosion resistant aluminum oxide. It does not matter if it is forged.

          There is something to be said for a forged lower being stronger, and therefore the better choice, but generally the machined billet lowers are made thicker to make up for lower material allowables, so again it is 6 of one half dozen of the other. In the current panic climate, I would not be picky.

          A pre-anodized lower will make life more interesting, but again if it were me, I would not be picky.

          If you can, find a local metal coating shop that provides anodizing. If you can run your parts through with a batch of other parts, then you might be able to get the anodizing done for a reasonable price. I have gotten this done for $20 to $40 per piece in the San Diego area. The current group buy for anodizing a (very large) batch of DIY lowers is $16 per piece (also San Diego area).

          You can also spray on either duracoat, or alumahyde, both of which provide some toughness, corrosion, and wear resistance. I would go with anodizing if you can, because it actually hardens the top layers of aluminum material.

          I hope you can find a local vendor who is willing to work with you.
          learn something new everyday

          Comment

          • #6
            Justin87
            Member
            • Dec 2012
            • 343

            I'm cheap and lazy so I'm doing a batch with the diy shake n spray duracoat system. II've read good things about it. Let me know of you want to see the results. Hopefully it gets here next week. I'm waiting on that and some stocks.
            I write things (poorly)
            I tweet sh*t (angrily)
            I'm right, you're wrong.

            Comment

            • #7
              Gutz
              CGN/CGSSA Contributor
              • Jan 2013
              • 4127

              Originally posted by Justin87
              I'm cheap and lazy so I'm doing a batch with the diy shake n spray duracoat system. II've read good things about it. Let me know of you want to see the results. Hopefully it gets here next week. I'm waiting on that and some stocks.
              I wanna see the results.
              1A - 2A= -1A :(

              Comment

              • #8
                Justin87
                Member
                • Dec 2012
                • 343

                Originally posted by Gutz
                I wanna see the results.
                Keep a look out. I'll be adding a thread soon. I want to paint them and have complete lowers assembled before I start my thread. I will do cost break downs of my prepanic set up and some I'm building during the "panic" . Should be fun :
                I write things (poorly)
                I tweet sh*t (angrily)
                I'm right, you're wrong.

                Comment

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