AR Every Thing 3D printer Thread

[me109g4]

I saw in a previous post that ABS plastic can be used, now I dont know crap about these printers but if they can use ABS how about glass filled ABS?? I used to work for a company that made EKG sensors and the base of them we molded out of ABS with 20% glass fiber added, it was very tough stuff. Downside is it is abrasive as hell, we could wear out a hardened mold cavity in a few months and an unhardened one in a few days. Just a thought,,,

[bobgengeskahn]

Operational cost aside, does this style printer create a stronger product than say a DLP projection/SLA printer? I know the resin for SLA is $$$, compared to this (I don't even know what this printing method is called), but I'm curious to know how the finished products differ...

im not to fond of the lower cause 80% is available. I just think it would be cool to make some mags and grip maybe a butt stock.

^^ This is along the lines of what I would be thinking too. If you could print mags, floor plates and followers, you just need to find a way to build reliable springs

[Exile Machine]

you just need to find a way to build reliable springs

We are now stocking Wolff Gunsprings for our customers who like to roll their own 3D printed mags, or for those who just want to upgrade their old springs. Currently we only have the 20 round springs in stock. 30 rounders are on backorder.

Got our MendelMax 2.0 kit in the lab over the last week or so, finally built it up and ran a test print today, which had to be aborted after about three layers because the hot end was dipping into the finished part and dragging molten ABS around. (Cue the Ricky Ricardo voice) "Lucy, you got some calibratin' to do."

Here's a photo of the unit partially completed and undergoing all-axis test. The hot end is not installed under the extruder to prevent it from crashing into the glass during the test, should something go horribly wrong with the Z axis test:

[Yugo]

We are now stocking Wolff Gunsprings for our customers who like to roll their own 3D printed mags, or for those who just want to upgrade their old springs. Currently we only have the 20 round springs in stock. 30 rounders are on backorder.

Got our MendelMax 2.0 kit in the lab over the last week or so, finally built it up and ran a test print today, which had to be aborted after about three layers because the hot end was dipping into the finished part and dragging molten ABS around. (Cue the Ricky Ricardo voice) "Lucy, you got some calibratin' to do."

Here's a photo of the unit partially completed and undergoing all-axis test. The hot end is not installed under the extruder to prevent it from crashing into the glass during the test, should something go horribly wrong with the Z axis test:

I cant tell from the picture, do you have a hot BED? To print ABS you need to have a hot bed at about 110 degrees the head should be at 220 degrees. You HAVE to calibrate the machine as much as possible, every point where the head travels needs to be the same height off the glass (distance between glass and hotend)

You need

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-sae-metric-digital-indicator-93295.html

and

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-digital-caliper-47261.html

and this for the top of the bed can't hurt for the sticking.

these are a must.

the whole machine should be checked after 10-15 prints and make sure the numbers are still correct.

[axhoaxho]

What 3D printer would you folks suggest for an amature to have some fun learning/practicng about 3D printing at home, buget in low few thousand dollars? Nothing too serious like for commercial use, but hopefully the quality of the end-products are good/solid enough to be usable (e.g. custom mounts/brackets for in-car iPod/iPad/GPS/etc.) Thanks!

[Exile Machine]

MendelMax 2.0 comes standard with a hot bed. We had it at 110C and print head at 230C. The bed surface is borosilicate glass and we have heard that you need to lay down some kapton tape for ABS to stick. We calibrated the hotend to bed distance at six points and it was fine, but the z travel and extruder travel was not pre-calibrated and that is probably the issue here.

I cant tell from the picture, do you have a hot BED? To print ABS you need to have a hot bed at about 110 degrees the head should be at 220 degrees. You HAVE to calibrate the machine as much as possible, every point where the head travels needs to be the same height off the glass (distance between glass and hotend)

[Yugo]

MendelMax 2.0 comes standard with a hot bed. We had it at 110C and print head at 230C. The bed surface is borosilicate glass and we have heard that you need to lay down some kapton tape for ABS to stick. We calibrated the hotend to bed distance at six points and it was fine, but the z travel and extruder travel was not pre-calibrated and that is probably the issue here.

let me know how it goes.

[Sicarius]

True, PLA(corn starch based) is easier to work with but PLA is weaker than ABS. I would sway somebody to make a receiver out of something that will biodegrate... A receiver should not be the first thing you print on your machine. There is a fair amount of fine tuning still. You can play with resolution, temps and speed to find what will make the strongest product. With ABS, there can be some contraction of the product which will create your product to lift off the hot plate(if you have a machine made for abs) This can ruin your product. A trick is to mix acetone and scrap abs in a jar and it will create a sludge. Smear a really thin layer on the hot plate. Another trick to try to get a stronger product is to suspend your product in a container with a small amount of acetone in it and heat it. The acetone will create a vapor which will help seal your product.
Kevin

[Yugo]

True, PLA(corn starch based) is easier to work with but PLA is weaker than ABS. I would sway somebody to make a receiver out of something that will biodegrate... A receiver should not be the first thing you print on your machine. There is a fair amount of fine tuning still. You can play with resolution, temps and speed to find what will make the strongest product. With ABS, there can be some contraction of the product which will create your product to lift off the hot plate(if you have a machine made for abs) This can ruin your product. A trick is to mix acetone and scrap abs in a jar and it will create a sludge. Smear a really thin layer on the hot plate. Another trick to try to get a stronger product is to suspend your product in a container with a small amount of acetone in it and heat it. The acetone will create a vapor which will help seal your product.
Kevin

Yes acetone is the key!..

I just have a couple more parts to print on the rerap.


and here is what I have so far,

Smoothie board for the computer
all the step motors
all the hardware
waiting for the hotbed to arrive
also waiting for the pyrex glass and metal bed.

This is still in developer stage and they are not produced yet it is the TK0.

[Yugo]

[Yugo]

[Yugo]

im almost about to print.

here it is 98% complete. I received the hotbed and glass. I have a metal machined carriage on order for now I mocked up a wood one.

[rabagley]

Awesome. I just ordered a MendelMax 2.0 beta for us to muck around with in the shop here. Do you have a good cheap source for spools of plastic raw material?

-Mark

I built a mendelmax 1.5, mostly from the bill of materials. I'm curious about the new rails that Mike has chosen for the 2.0, but I'm probably going to build a deltabot for my first offspring.

[rabagley]

MendelMax 2.0 comes standard with a hot bed. We had it at 110C and print head at 230C. The bed surface is borosilicate glass and we have heard that you need to lay down some kapton tape for ABS to stick. We calibrated the hotend to bed distance at six points and it was fine, but the z travel and extruder travel was not pre-calibrated and that is probably the issue here.

I'm finding that hairspray works great for me. I found some AquaNet Extra Super Hold. Seems to be people are having the most luck with the most aggressive strengths hairspray.

Remove the glass, clean it, spray 2 full coverage coats in a box (a little heavier spray than I would do with paint), let it dry between coats (hairdryer if you're in a hurry), clip it up and print. Takes about 10 minutes, can be touched up several times before you need to clean and recoat it.

One downside: if you touch it with your fingers, you will need to spray over that spot before you'll get any adhesion again. Handle coated glass by the edges and corners outside of the print region.

[Yugo]

needed a camera gimbal, so I made one



You can fallow the thread on this here