Advice on Remington 700 modifications

[Chontkleer]

Have a 700P, 26" heavy barrel, all factory everything.

Would like to continue to shoot precision tactical competitions with it, but I've really got to get the weight down for shooting standing and kneeling. Bunch of questions:

1) How much weight will I shave off by cutting 6 inches off the barrel?
2) I want to attach a muzzle brake but a) are there any that get don't produce even more muzzle flash? b) Can a brake and target crown co-exist? Will I lose significant accuracy if I can't have target crown? (Would love to keep shooting very accurately out to 800 yards)
3) Trigger pull 'feels' like 5-6 pounds. I would like to get it to 2 lbs. Can the factory trigger be adjusted down or should I invest in Timney?
4) The stock is ok, but just doesn't feel as comfortable as an asics or McMillan, especially since can't adjust length of pull and there's no built-in cheekpiece (have strap-on cheekpiece in the meantime). I think that a lighter stock would be great... are there any that really stand out in that regard?

[2nd Shot]

I have an SPS-Tactical, which is the same rifle, but with a 20" heavy barrel. With an HS Precision stock taken from the 700 5R, it's still nearly twice as heavy (12+ lbs) as my buddies synthetic stocked '06 Savage hunting rifle. The furthest I could adjust the factory X-Mark Pro trigger was a measured 4 lbs. It gets it done, but I may invest in a Jewell or Timney later on. I wouldn't tinker with the XM-P, though obviously the older triggers can be tuned as much as you want by a competent gunsmith. The factory 700P stock is an HS Precision or a B&C right? You probably won't gain much more accuracy going to a higher end stock, vs the difference from non bedded stocks. Whether it's worth the added ergonomics or not is up to you.

[Chontkleer]

Yes, HS Precision.

[thepro8]

I have the Sps tactical too. I recommend investing in optics and reloading equipment.

[Chontkleer]

I have the Sps tactical too. I recommend investing in optics and reloading equipment.

Optics I've got. Reloading equipment is in the works.

You have 26" barrel? Standing/kneeling, the thing is just way too heavy to shoot accurately.

[707electrician]

Have a 700P, 26" heavy barrel, all factory everything.

Would like to continue to shoot precision tactical competitions with it, but I've really got to get the weight down for shooting standing and kneeling. Bunch of questions:

1) How much weight will I shave off by cutting 6 inches off the barrel?
2) I want to attach a muzzle brake but a) are there any that get don't produce even more muzzle flash? b) Can a brake and target crown co-exist? Will I lose significant accuracy if I can't have target crown? (Would love to keep shooting very accurately out to 800 yards)
3) Trigger pull 'feels' like 5-6 pounds. I would like to get it to 2 lbs. Can the factory trigger be adjusted down or should I invest in Timney?
4) The stock is ok, but just doesn't feel as comfortable as an asics or McMillan, especially since can't adjust length of pull and there's no built-in cheekpiece (have strap-on cheekpiece in the meantime). I think that a lighter stock would be great... are there any that really stand out in that regard?

1- 6 inches will make a noticeable difference in the weight and balance of the gun but will bite you in the butt at long range
2- You can have a brake and a target crown and the brake shouldn't affect accuracy
3- Don't bother tinkering with the factory trigger, get a timney or jewell
4- There are many light-weight, ergonomic stock options out there

[CK_32]

Importance to me in this order IMO..

Scope (What ever you can afford)
Bipod (Harris or atlas)
Stock (Mcmillan a5)
Trigger (jewel)
Better scope (NF,USO,Permier)
Barrel (Custom krager 11.5 twist)

[Gofasterdammit]

Don't waste money on that barrel. Get a Bartlein 5R, finished at 22 or 24", chambered by a reputable builder. Pair that with a blue printed 700 action and a good chassis or bedded stock and you'll be good to go.

[slappomatt]

1. 6" off the stock barrel should be right around 1lb.
2. What flash??! you shoot .308 at night?
3. Not sure about the current trigger, older triggers could be tuned down to a nice 3lbs
4. have your wallet ready. getting any decent target stock will set you back 400-1000 easy.

[Chontkleer]

1. 6" off the stock barrel should be right around 1lb.
2. What flash??! you shoot .308 at night?
3. Not sure about the current trigger, older triggers could be tuned down to a nice 3lbs
4. have your wallet ready. getting any decent target stock will set you back 400-1000 easy.

I was hoping more around 2lbs.... if the stock barrel is 8 pounds and it weights 1/3rd lb per inch, but then again it tapers.

Woops, typed flash instead of blast. Don't want to blast people shooting next to me.

I've had the rifle for about 8 years... will have to investigate the trigger further.

Cost is definitely a concern, so I think I'll stay with the current stock, build up the cheek rest, chop down the barrel, add the brake, adjust the trigger if possible, get a sling, a decent mat (camping mat isn't cutting it... too bouncy)

[Chontkleer]

Don't waste money on that barrel. Get a Bartlein 5R, finished at 22 or 24", chambered by a reputable builder. Pair that with a blue printed 700 action and a good chassis or bedded stock and you'll be good to go.

It shoots .5 moa or better now. You think the fabled Bartlein 5R barrel will improve that?

[G-forceJunkie]

What long rang comps are you shooting? Around here, nobody runs a 20" barrel because we want the velocity. Note that most long range high power records are set with 26-30" barrels. Its your technique, not the barrel holding you back. Look at this picture, thats about a 6" group at 200 yard group, standing, with a 2 1/2 foot barrel. The lighter you make your rifle, the harder it is going to be be to shoot in most positions. Its going to recoil more, its going to move around more. Most comp rifles are 16-18 pounds.

Have a 700P, 26" heavy barrel, all factory everything.

Would like to continue to shoot precision tactical competitions with it, but I've really got to get the weight down for shooting standing and kneeling. Bunch of questions:

1) How much weight will I shave off by cutting 6 inches off the barrel?

Don't know, but I suggest you not cut it.

2) I want to attach a muzzle brake but a) are there any that get don't produce even more muzzle flash? b) Can a brake and target crown co-exist? Will I lose significant accuracy if I can't have target crown? (Would love to keep shooting very accurately out to 800 yards)

An 11 degree target crown is sort of a waste in a brake. The point of an 11 degree crown is it is supposed to mimic the angle the gases excape around the base of the bullet as it leaves the barrel. A brake instead funnels this blast of gas forward in a contained chamber. As long as the crown is done accurately, its not going to matter. What matters more is that the threads and brake is installed perfectaly aligned to the bore.

3) Trigger pull 'feels' like 5-6 pounds. I would like to get it to 2 lbs. Can the factory trigger be adjusted down or should I invest in Timney?

Get the Timney. Your remington trigger may be old enough that it can be adjusted by a competent gunsmith to 3 pounds or so. If its a newer X Mark trigger, throw it in the trash.

4) The stock is ok, but just doesn't feel as comfortable as an asics or McMillan, especially since can't adjust length of pull and there's no built-in cheekpiece (have strap-on cheekpiece in the meantime). I think that a lighter stock would be great... are there any that really stand out in that regard?

You can adjust the length of pull by putting spacers behind the butt pad. Stock packs to raise the cheekpiece work fine. Most tac comp shooters want their stocks heavier, not lighter. Finding a stock that fits you is like buying clothes or shoes, try on as many as you can get behind before making any decisions.

[Capita159]

At op:
You should just shoot the hell out of that gun and leave it alone. I was in the same position as you seven years ago with the same rifle "700P". It shot >0.65" groups with 3 shots at 100 yards from the gecko. And then the modifications came, a lot of silly "unnecessary" modifications that was a waste of money. It looks pretty and all. End up selling it for $850.00 to fund the rifle I should've bought in the first place

My old 700P weighted 12lbs. with the barrel chop to 22". That was a little on the light side. I have a 15lbs AR-308, that thing doesn't move when I shoot it prone, knee, or stand.

[Chontkleer]

What long rang comps are you shooting? Around here, nobody runs a 20" barrel because we want the velocity. Note that most long range high power records are set with 26-30" barrels. Its your technique, not the barrel holding you back. Look at this picture, thats about a 6" group at 200 yard group, standing, with a 2 1/2 foot barrel. The lighter you make your rifle, the harder it is going to be be to shoot in most positions. Its going to recoil more, its going to move around more. Most comp rifles are 16-18 pounds.


Don't know, but I suggest you not cut it.


An 11 degree target crown is sort of a waste in a brake. The point of an 11 degree crown is it is supposed to mimic the angle the gases excape around the base of the bullet as it leaves the barrel. A brake instead funnels this blast of gas forward in a contained chamber. As long as the crown is done accurately, its not going to matter. What matters more is that the threads and brake is installed perfectaly aligned to the bore.


Get the Timney. Your remington trigger may be old enough that it can be adjusted by a competent gunsmith to 3 pounds or so. If its a newer X Mark trigger, throw it in the trash.


You can adjust the length of pull by putting spacers behind the butt pad. Stock packs to raise the cheekpiece work fine. Most tac comp shooters want their stocks heavier, not lighter. Finding a stock that fits you is like buying clothes or shoes, try on as many as you can get behind before making any decisions.

Haven't shot anything long range yet in competition yet. 1st competition was 25-300 yards:

http://www.caprc.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3849

I was only one of two shooters that nailed the 5th stage. Unfortunately that was only at 25 yards.

I can hit the 600 yard targets all day long at Angeles, prone, but what I noticed at the competition is that standing or kneeling, trying to hit at 200 was just a joke. Maybe it's upper body strength or technique, or not using a sling.

Stock pack: Yeah, the one I got has extra velcro so I can build it up from the inside which is nice.

Crown/brake: so you think cut just thread it and put brake on? Recommend the best brake? Even if it reduced felt recoil 10-20% it has to improve the shooting by reducing the flinch-factor.

Trigger, check. Will have gunsmith make the call. Thanks.

[Chontkleer]

At op:
You should just shoot the hell out of that gun and leave it alone. I was in the same position as you seven years ago with the same rifle "700P". It shot >0.65" groups with 3 shots at 100 yards from the gecko. And then the modifications came, a lot of silly "unnecessary" modifications that was a waste of money. It looks pretty and all. End up selling it for $850.00 to fund the rifle I should've bought in the first place

My old 700P weighted 12lbs. with the barrel chop to 22". That was a little on the light side. I have a 15lbs AR-308, that thing doesn't move when I shoot it prone, knee, or stand.

Definitely don't want silly/ineffective. I've seen you shoot, and definitely take your word that heavier is better (as long as it's not so heavy that it's hard to actually hold the sights on the target)