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I've never done this and it looks simple but wanted to ask if there were any do's/don'ts when it comes staking a castle nut that does not have any stake points? Thx!
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"Don't" hit the punch like a wuss.
"Do" hit it with a bit of force.
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Start slow to get a dimple going and lessen the chances of any slips. When you can see a dimple start hitting it harder.Comment
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You can go to the hardware store and buy one of these. Much easier. Keep clicking until you have all the metal you want moved into the slot.
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Dont get that auto punch from Home Depot. Mine wore out before I finished a single stake. I litterally had to press that thing over 200 times. It was the heavy duty one too.
It did make a pretty decent manual punch though once the guts wore out.Comment
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Dont get that auto punch from Home Depot. Mine wore out before I finished a single stake. I litterally had to press that thing over 200 times. It was the heavy duty one too.
It did make a pretty decent manual punch though once the guts wore out.Comment
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What do you mean it doesn't have stake points? Did you get an ATI/chicom airsoft castle nut that looks like this? If the answer is yes, throw it in the trash where it belongs and get real parts because you can't properly stake this nut.
If the nut looks like this, just tighten it down to spec and hit the ****er with a punch and hammer. You should get 2 points of contact out of 3.
Last edited by MXRider; 03-10-2012, 11:55 AM.Comment
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A lot of manufacturers don't stake the nut and there is no nut to stake on a standard stock and they work just fine. I have no problem with staking the castle nut but the stock isn't going to fall off if the nut becomes loose. So I'm 50/50 on this issue.sigpicComment
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The standard buffer tube is not staked because you don't have to align it to be upright. You simply screw it in and tighten it to the specified toque value. The collapsable stock has to be run in to engage the buffer retainer then backed off until the stock key is pointing down, then you put the end plate (blanking here on its name) in its keyed place on the lower and run the castle nut down.
Stake it or Lock-Tite it, that nut will rattle loose with the massive recoil of 5.56.
Alot isn't a word and allot isn't the word you think it is.
I'd really like a Colt 1903 frame, bad finish okay!
I'm also looking for a good deal on a 1911 frame or two for budget/spare parts builds.Comment
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Just monkey-fist the castle nut with some medium locktite and call it good. You know you're going to be changing out to some other tacticool accessory in 6 months anyway.Comment
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Don't loctite it, do it right, stake it. And because some manufacturers don't do it doesn't mean much, because there are a lot of crap products out there. Castle nuts can and do come loose with use, so why half *** it?Comment
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Thy should be staked on a collapsible stock and look like this http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=6994California's politicians and unionized government employees are a crime gang that makes the Mexican drug cartels look like a Girl Scout Troop in comparison.Comment
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War is when your Government tells you who the enemy is......
Revolution is when you figure it out for yourself.Comment
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How could you possibly "trash" the threads when loosening a castle nut that was properly staked? I gotta hear your explanation on this. Misunderstanding the proper procedure doesn't mean you should spread bad info...
And the reason we stake the nut is because when you put a twisting force on the weapon through manipulation, you can loosen things up.Comment
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