M1A extractor issues

[Riskas]

So today I was shooting my SA M1A scout using south african surplus. I fired a shot and got hit in the head by something small. I looked down and saw that my extractor had been flung out of the bolt and onto the ground. I was able to find all the parts (extractor, extractor detent spring, ejector, and ejector spring) and examine them when I got home. All the parts seem to be undamaged, and I was able to re-assemble them back into place. After that, I was able to cycle snap caps by hand and the bolt seemed to stay together.

My question is this: how the heck did my extractor and ejector magically disassemble themselves during firing of the weapon? Up until this point the rifle has been dead reliable ( approx. 650 rounds).

I plan on shooting it again tomorrow to see if the extractor decides to fly out again.

Also, I am contemplating picking up a couple of extra extractors and associated springs, just in case.

-Brian

[Josh]

this is a known issue with reproduction extractors, either buy a USGI spec extractor or drill the dent deeper in the commercial copies.

[Wulf]

My M1A puked its bolt contents at about twice that round count. I replaced everything with USGI parts and have fired at least a couple more thousand rounds without a problem. It was a DIY job and IIRC all the parts and springs, including a USGI chromed firing pin were about 50 bucks.

[Bigugly]

Same problem here. Replaced all the internals with mil. spec. parts, problem fixed.
This is a good place to get mil. parts.

http://www.usgunparts.com/

[Riskas]

Thanks for all your help guys. I already ordered the USGI bolt internals, so I think I will just toss the repro stuff and use the USGI bolt guts instead.

-Brian

[Wulf]

That's what I did... All usgi in the bolt.

[Lethal_addict]

Carefull... You Need It Headspaced!!!

M1A bolts need headspacing otherwise it might blow in your face... contact a good smith to have this done, WARBIRB or SMITH ENTERPRISE

Thanks for all your help guys. I already ordered the USGI bolt internals, so I think I will just toss the repro stuff and use the USGI bolt guts instead.

-Brian

[glockman19]

Send it back to SA under their lifetime waranty and get it fixed.

[Riskas]

"M1A bolts need headspacing otherwise it might blow in your face... contact a good smith to have this done, WARBIRB or SMITH ENTERPRISE"

Does the bolt need to be headspaced if I just swap extractor and firing pin?

-Brian

[-hanko]

Does the bolt need to be headspaced if I just swap extractor and firing pin?

-Brian

If you're staying with the same barrel and bolt, headspacing is not required. Though I'd get the gages and use them just to be sure; tools like that are just handy to have around.

-hanko

[Riskas]

Ok, thats what I thought. I figured as long as my bolt was headspaced properly to begin with, I shouldn't need to re-headspace it after just swapping an extractor.

Once again, thanks for all your help guys.

-Brian

[Wulf]

Send it back to SA under their lifetime waranty and get it fixed.

Problem with that is that SF wants you to send in the whole gun, not just the bolt. And when it comes back it will still be at risk for the same problem. Down time to figure in too.

By the time I figured out what it would cost to take advantage of SF's "free" warranty service (hardcase, boxing, shipping), it was cheeper to buy USGI parts and DIY.

Riskas, there's a procedure I found on the internet for using a 30.06 case instead of the dedicated bolt tool to re assemble the bolt. Basically you get everything set, then stick the 06 case in the chamber, force the bolt closed agains the case which keeps it out of batter, then snap the extractor in place. I'd send you the link but I lost it in a HD crash.

[Riskas]

Wulf, thanks for the tip. I just used the USGI multi-tool and gorilla hand strength to re-assemble the bolt. I think I will try the 30-06 shell trick...


-Brian