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Rifle/Scope price ratio?
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-Remington 700 .308, AICS Black, Bushnell 6-24 50 Scope
-Makarov PM .380 ACP
-Ruger 10/22, Tapco T6 Stock, Leupold 3-9 40 -
There is no magic ratio that makes any logical sense.
If you get a super deal on a really accurate long range rifle (say a .338 Lapua chamber Rem 700 with heavy barrel) you may well be advised to put a Schmidt Bender or Leica scope for $2k- $4k on it. On the other hand, if you got a gussied up AR-15 with monolithic quad rail, and the fancy name and fancy options but a light weight barrel, and end up spending $2500 on the thing, you almost certainly do not need a $2500 scope on it to realize it's potential. In addition, there are some extremely accurate and consistent scopes out there, that would allow pretty much any rifle to shoot as accurate and far as it is capable of, but that costs only $300 - $600. You certainly get something in terms of better color correction, and better resolution in these super high end scopes, but that does not necessarily translate to better shooting.
I would make this, less then perfect, analogy. I have always been into fast cars, planes, etc. and I am willing to spend what it takes to make them perform at their best, but as an engineer I have never been able to justify spending money on things that are really not going to make a difference. So what expensive parts do I put on all my cars, no matter how cheap or old the car is? Tires. Not $4000 wheels, not cold air intakes, not coilovers, not stereo, because these things don't generally relate to better performance or handling. Certainly nobody wants a wheel to break while they are driving, or a wheel that is out of round, but I have never seen even the cheapest wheel have either of those problems. Perhaps there are some really cheap wheels that do have issues, just as perhaps there are some really cheap scopes that don't keep their aimpoint, but I have never owned one. Even the cheapest scope I ever bought would hold zero indefinitely and if I did my part I would hit within the capability of the rifle. Now some of these cheap scopes do supposedly break fairly easily, some don't have a perfectly clear picture, but I guess you have to go to an even lower price point then I have ever tried to get that level of junk.
So I would read the scope reviews, be certain of what you need (ie. hunters don't generally want or need exposed, finger adjustable, turrets), and get something that will likely do the job for as little money as you can get away with. I am a wealthy guy, but I do not have a Leica, Schmidt Bender, Swarovski, or the like on any of my rifles. I will take a look at buying something of that sort when I go to Germany this summer but I have seen no evidence that I have shot any worse due to my low cost (actually probably medium cost) scopes on some expensive rifles.Comment
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The way I see it. If you buy one nice optic you will most likely hold on to it longer than the rifle. And, if you practice consistent mounting of your scope you can use the same optic for multiple guns (same torque, same spot on mounts, etc.). A local benchrest guy that I respect gave me this little nugget of wisdom and it does work. Will the remount be perfect? Probably not, but two-three rounds will usually get you back to zero.
For my rifle, the "ratio" is greater than 1:1 (kimber 8400 tactical/Nightforce NXS 5.5-22)Comment
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Once you go .338 Lapua, you can't really complain about scope cost...-Remington 700 .308, AICS Black, Bushnell 6-24 50 Scope
-Makarov PM .380 ACP
-Ruger 10/22, Tapco T6 Stock, Leupold 3-9 40Comment
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I am right at a 1:1 average and feel that is a good mark.Comment
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Scope price will depend on what you will do with the rifle. You're not going to shoot long range targets with a Savage 10 carbine, so no high end scope. If you plan on shooting past a few hundred yards, yes, you should spend as much for the scope over this particular rifle.
The following ratios seem good for a start:
I would change it a bit to:
Rifle:Scope
1:1++ is recommended for long range accuracy
1:0.5 is recommended for hunting
1:0.2 for tin cans at 50 yards
1:0.1 for paper at 50yardssigpic
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A rifle and scope are a complete platform. You are paying good money to complete the platform. A good optic allows the rifle to perform to its standards and allows you to help it do so.Comment
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I bought a new STD REM PSS in 308 one time.(950.00 OTD), got mark 4 rings and mounts (250.00) and ordered a Leupold VXIII 4.5-14x40 std reticle.(650.00) shipped. thats a total of 1750.00 for the package.
I was getting 1/2 inch groups with 168GM at 100 yards and many 1" and less at 200.Comment
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Here's is what I'm building just now - Savage Model 12F in 6.5x284 with 30 inch barrel, about 14 pounds - about $2k when done with mods:

With a Nightforce NSX 12-42x56 scope, about $2k:

On a Nightforce Unimount, about $250:

To, hopefully, produce a group like this or better:
I have the latter two components, just waiting on the first!sigpic
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Yes and no.NRA Benefactor Life Member
NRA Certified Pistol, Rifle, Personal Protection In The Home, Personal Protection Outside The Home Instructor, CA DOJ Certified CCW Instructor, RSO
American Marksman Training Group
Visit our American Marksman Facebook PageComment
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I like the Nightforce with its features, reputation and warranty. Best price is about $1.5K.
Is there any other manufacturer that is comparable, with turret features, for less than $1k?Comment
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Features wise, the Vortex Viper PST will have similar features for less than $1K.Comment
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I definitely agree with price based on use.
For my 3 gun rifle I broke the piggy bank open for an IOR but for my .308 bolt gun which I shoot twice a year at paper at 100yds I bought a barsaka.Comment
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