What to look for in a lever action Savage 99

[bombadillo]

I have the opportunity to buy a Savage 99 in .250 Savage or .250-3000 depending on who you talk to, and I was wondering if anyone had any idea on what specifics to look for. I know they are common for breaking their stocks and getting cracks in there so thats a big key, original sights, Brass follower, and serial numbers tell a lot, but other than that, any specifics you guys would watch for. I may turn around and sell it as I met a 90 year old man who has been looking for a nice savage 99 for lots of years now and would like to possibly trade it to him for something of comparable value, and/or just outright sell it to him. Anyway, what are your thoughts on them, and what should I be looking for as value goes?

[GunDog]

I'd also be interested in learning what to look for in a Savage Model 99. Heard many good things about them and would like to pick one up since they're no longer being made and are quickly becoming a classic if not already.

[dfletcher]

I have a 50's made Savage 99 in 300 Savage, I know only odds & ends on the line.

If it's a plain old 99 - not a takedown, no Stith or Balvar scope mounting set up - I would say make sure there are no major cracks behind the tang, make certain the rotary spool has enough power behind it to feed properly (it can be adjusted) and that the safety works properly and that's about it.

As the lever closes & the gun locks up, you should feel a touch of resistance as tail end of the bolt moves up and into place. If you have the opportunity to examine it closely, removing the buttstock and seeing how the gun cocks, how the trigger and safety works is pretty interesting.

If it's drilled and tapped it's best if it was done at the factory. As I understand it, for a long time 99s were not drilled & tapped, hence the Stith scope mount which used the rear sight slot and the receiver sight screwholes for mounting. Sometime in the 50s (I think) the factory started D & T.

Regarding DOM, if the gun is above a certain serial number that number isn't used to determine DOM. There will be a letter inside a small circle by the lever boss - A = 1949, B = 1950 and so on.

That's about the extent of my knowledge, other than they're great little rifles.

[bombadillo]

Right on Dfletcher, thanks for the heads up. I get to inspect one and find out a bit more about it tomorrow. It has an older Vari-X II on it and i'm not sure much else other than its got a scope mounted so i'm waiting to see how. It could be a takedown but likely not and I know its worth at least 600-800 according to this guy. We shall see

[tpuig]

These are great guns, and my personal favorite in the safe. I have an early '50's 99 in .250-3000. Do a search and look for other forums that cater to them. There is a Savage forum out there.

http://www.savageshooters.com/

Many fans of these are back east in PA and OH deer country. Very popular in those areas.

You probably know this, but the "3000" refers to the velocity of the round, and was a big marketing tool for Savage when the rifle came out almost 100 years ago. Previously the two numbers represented caliber and then grains of powder, like a .45-70 and such. I believe that Savage was the first to do this.
Using a light 87gr bullet, they hit the 3000fps mark.


Anyway, it's a great gun. The values are all over the place, depending on condition. The take down models seem to be a bit more pricey. Look for overall condition and use your gut. They are tough guns and hold up well with average care. Without seeing it, very difficult to say what yours would be worth. There were some special runs of custom and more elaborate 99's, but generally these were deer guns for the common man.

If you get some pics, I can possibly help in a couple Savage books I've got. The serial number and barrel markings will tell you what model and approx when it was made. The .250 is a fun and flat shooting round, but there are "better" calibers out there now, depending on your viewpoint.

My gun is a 1:14 twist rate, so I can only shoot light bullets. Heavier bullets sometimes won't stabilize in that slow rate, and most guns in the last 30years or so went to a 1:12 or 1:10 twist.

Best bet is to find out exactly what model it is, then look at Gunbroker to see what the sales prices have been for a value. There have been a couple here on CG, which is where I got mine.

Hope this helps. I'm no expert, but ask away. There's some great info up here.

[Len]

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/forums/40/1/Savage_Collectors

http://www.savage99.com/

Best information on the web.

[echo1]

This is my '50s 99F in .308. Does the one your looking have a straight stock or a pistol grip? That price seems a little high unless it's very early and clean. It is one of the best if not the best balanced lever gun made. If it's been carried in the field much, the bluing at the magazine will show wear.

[bombadillo]

Nope, it tapers down narrow and flares out toward the muzzle. Its a 1943 build date from what I can tell from the owner currently. It has the brass follower, the wood has no cracks and in very good shape altogether except a few little scratches here and there. Lever is VERY smooth compared to many others i've felt. Nice looking gun really. All bone stock original and has an old leupold vari-x II on there. I could pick it up for $500 if I want it so what do you think? Its not the takedown model, and i'd rate it at around 85-90% or so on condition.

[Len]

Is the lever color case or blue?
A blued lever would indicate a re-blue.
Any early Savage 99 before 1950ish that has been drilled and tapped or re-blued negates any collector (other than sentimental) value and pretty much makes it a real nice shooter and hunting rifle, the scope is worth a hundred bucks.

I have 3 Savage 99s, they are my favorite lever gun.
I do not have a .250 but I own 2 .300s and one in .308
If you do not reload the ammo gets pricey.

[bombadillo]

No, its got that case rainbow looking color to it. Nice looking gun except for a few scratches here and there.

[gun toting monkeyboy]

My main hunting rifle is a late 40's vintage 99 in .300 Savage. I would feel comfortable using it for anything short of big bears hunted from the ground. They are awesome rifles. Some of the pre-WWII guns were made with slightly softer steels. That means nothing in terms of the longevity of the firearm. But they do tend to flex a bit more, so you get a bit more case stretching, and shorter case lives. .250 Savage is one of the more sought-after chamberings. If you find one, don't sell it. You will regret it later. Generally what you look for has been covered by the other posters. I highly recommend the Savage collector's forum over at 24 hour campfire. Some of the other rooms over there seem to be peopled with idiotic, knuckle-dragging, you-ain't-the-boss-of-me morons who like to spout of whatever reactionary, racist BS they happen to think of. But the Savage and a few of the other rooms have rational people in them.