Problem with M1A - Help!!

[IEShooter]

Took my new M1A Scout to the range today. This is only the second time I've shot it. Put about 350 rounds through it flawlessly. I was shooting 150 grain bullets all day and was firing Winchester when it happened.

Op rod and bolt are stuck in the rearward position. It did this once at the range and by jiggling it, I was able to free it up. Shot about 20 more rounds and it stuck again, and this time it seems to be stuck good!!

Op rod will move back and forth about 1/2" or so. Rifle is disassembled, with trigger group out and stock removed. I have it upside down in a rifle rest and the bolt is all the way back where the rear of it is touching the rear of the receiver.

Bolt will not move at all.

I've lubed it all up with WD-40 in hopes of freeing it up, but no go.

Some pics are attached.

Any ideas?

Regards,

John

[IEShooter]

Got it!!!

Turns out the bolt had overtravelled and was stuck in the rear position. Tapped it with a piece of wood and it slammed home.

One of the guys on the M14 forum says I should have greased it up better and cleaned it after 100-150 rounds. I cleaned the bore at about 300, but didn't re-grease.

Any advice on good lubing and grease methods? I'm using Tetra grease for the op rod and action. LIght coat and wiping it off.

Any recommendatons?

Regards,

John

[Vinz]

your owners manual has all the lube points listed.



remember no lube in the piston.


vinz

[Requiem]

http://m14tfl.com/upload/showthread.php?t=68705

that should help prevent future issues. She's meant to be ran greased.

[ajaffe]

By the way, WD-40 is not the best lubricant, it is a W(ater) D(isplacement spray.

[Blacktail 8541]

While Tetra grease is a good grease, the M1a generally use a heavier grease such as lubriplate or plasti lube. Others of the same type will work also.

You may also want to update your post on the Firing Line also.

[CrazyJeep]

Here's a tub of Lubriplate that will last you a life time from Brownells: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6...__SPEC__GREASE

[5ohguy]

Grease the op rod guide ring, large and small lug recesses on the receiver (either side of the bolt when it cams to battery), bolt roller assembly, bolt guide recesses, op rod spring, op rod guide recess, and lightly any place you start seeing a bit of wear. A drop of oil or two in the trigger assembly and use gravity to drop the piston then wipe it off with a dry rag.

Other than clean the bore with the rifle upside down to prevent solvents from getting into the gas system, that's it.

I use tetra, but in warm weather it tends to run a bit.

Good luck

[JPB]

Mine runs all day with a light coat of oil. If you have enough friction to capture the operating spring fully compressed, I doubt that a little grease is the correct fix. Sounds like somethings out of spec.

[30Cal]

Mine runs all day with a light coat of oil. If you have enough friction to capture the operating spring fully compressed, I doubt that a little grease is the correct fix. Sounds like somethings out of spec.

I agree with this. Carefully inspect the back of the bolt, the firing pin and the receiver heel and see if you've got a burr in there somewhere.

GI bolt or SA Inc?

[ZombieKiller]

I agree with the grease- It must be greased and not oiled. Hit the bolt rollers with some- get the tool to do it with from Badger Ordinance or Brownell's...

You can use an old trimmed down 45acp case- but when you spend that much money on a rifle- you might as well have the right tools and lube for it. Steel on steel needs grease from my experience with my Scout....

[IEShooter]

Rifle

I agree with this. Carefully inspect the back of the bolt, the firing pin and the receiver heel and see if you've got a burr in there somewhere.

GI bolt or SA Inc?

Good point. I'll be sure to check this tonight.

I'm using Tetra grease based on the recommendation from Fulton Armory's website.

The gun is a Springfield, M1A.

I think part of the problem was that I didn't grease either the bolt or receiver heel where the bolt slides when at its full rearward position. I cleaned off the packing grease and applied Tetra to the op rod, where it rides against the receiver, etc., but I don't remember hitting this area.

There could also be a burr back there, so I'll check. It didn't require much force to get it to slide home. Just a firm tap on the op rod handle with a piece of wood.

Regards,

John

[adamsreeftank]

Sometimes the rear inside of the receiver is rough and can catch the bolt. I have an LRB that was terrible until I smoothed out the inside of the receiver. Using a buffer might help as it will prevent the bolt from travelling all the way back and hitting the receiver.

[Jonathan Doe]

I use GI rifle grease for my M-1, M-1A rifles. It works really well. 1 lb can will last very long.

[IEShooter]

New receiver

OP here. After talking it over with Springfield, I elected to send the rifle back to them to look at. It also had a problem with the rear sight not adjusting properly, so they said they'd look at both issues.

That was a few weeks ago. They just called and said they had to replace the entire receiver!!! She didn't have any notes in her computer yet to indicate why they did this, but she said a receiver replacement is extremely rare. My guess is something was cast or machined incorrectly. It takes quite a bit of force to hold the bolt back against the fully compressed spring, so something was out of whack with the bolt or receiver.

I guess they fixed or replaced the rear sight at the same time, so all should be well there too. I guess I have a new serial number now!!!

No charge and Springfield even paid for shipping both ways, so you can't argue with that superior customer service!!!!

They shipped it today, so I should be shooting it again by next week!!!!

Thanks for all the helpful advice.

Regards,

John