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most EDMs need a start hole for the wire to pass through before it can be turned on to cut so that won't work.
First, your best bet is to use DRIVERS, not the L shaped wrenchs. Second, you NEED to have pressure on the driver while it's setting up with the adhesive. Letting it just sit there while it dries will create a loose fit that will snap the second you touch it - it's the same reason why woodworkers use a bazillion clamps when gluing wood together. I can all but guarantee that if you haven't put pressure on it, it will fail.
Here is what you need to do. Find out which torx wrench fits in their best. You're looking for one that just BARELY doesn't go in - it will probably feel a little wobbly, like all but one or two corners go in and when you try to push the corners in that are out, the corners on the opposite pop out. Then go to a hardware store and buy an American made hardened driver (you may need to buy a whole set). A lot of imported tools are not made with the same quality steel as those from more 'prosperous' countries. American, German, Swiss, etc are all good but American will suffice.
You can use a heat source, but it's not really required. If you do, you could probably get by with a hair dryer on it's hottest setting. Get a towel and lay it on a HARD SOLID surface. A counter is best, or other floor/wall mounted object, but you could probably get away with using a large desk or table. Now lubricate the top of the screw liberally with a thin oil. Penetrating oils are fine, but WD-40 works well as well so you don't need to spend money if you don't need to. Oil and let it set for a couple minutes. Oil again and turn on the heat if you're going to use it. Keep adding oil every couple minutes or as it dries. You're not looking for scalding hot metal, just warmer than say it would get with your holding it. Get a second set of hands and have them hold the receiver steady. Take the driver and place it in the mouth of the screw and put gentle turning pressure on it. Not enough to strip the mouth, but enough that it would probably turn the receiver if it weren't held. Now give the driver a good whack on the base. Each time you whack it, give it a little more turning force on impact. Repeat several times and it should come out.
I'm assuming the hole was tapped with a regular sized tap and when anodizing was done it shrunk to being undersized. Your screw goes in and displaces metal away by force, but once it's in it's now a press fit and will be very hard to get out (same concept as a chinese finger trap). It probably went in smooth because of it's relative size which is also why it stripped so easily.
The heat expands the hole - not much but it's more to help oil move down into the threads than to increase the holes size.
The oil lubricates and prevents the screw from bitting as it comes out and prevents friction from working against you.
The hardened driver will displace a small bit of metal as it's hit with the hammer and will resist deforming so the screw will deform and not it. You use a driver instead of a wrench because you need all impact force going straight down and you want the turning force equally offset near the center and not on a arc away from center that can easily tilt off center.
The hammer acts like an impact wrench. It causes a wave to push through the screw which can very momentarily expand the hole as it passes through to the receiver. It also jars loose the screw if it bites. It also places the resisting force away from the side you're turning against (which is the resisting side without impact).
Try that and get back to us. $20 in tools is better than a $50 visit to the gunsmith or a pretty chunk of money for a new receiver.
First, your best bet is to use DRIVERS, not the L shaped wrenchs. Second, you NEED to have pressure on the driver while it's setting up with the adhesive. Letting it just sit there while it dries will create a loose fit that will snap the second you touch it - it's the same reason why woodworkers use a bazillion clamps when gluing wood together. I can all but guarantee that if you haven't put pressure on it, it will fail.
Here is what you need to do. Find out which torx wrench fits in their best. You're looking for one that just BARELY doesn't go in - it will probably feel a little wobbly, like all but one or two corners go in and when you try to push the corners in that are out, the corners on the opposite pop out. Then go to a hardware store and buy an American made hardened driver (you may need to buy a whole set). A lot of imported tools are not made with the same quality steel as those from more 'prosperous' countries. American, German, Swiss, etc are all good but American will suffice.
You can use a heat source, but it's not really required. If you do, you could probably get by with a hair dryer on it's hottest setting. Get a towel and lay it on a HARD SOLID surface. A counter is best, or other floor/wall mounted object, but you could probably get away with using a large desk or table. Now lubricate the top of the screw liberally with a thin oil. Penetrating oils are fine, but WD-40 works well as well so you don't need to spend money if you don't need to. Oil and let it set for a couple minutes. Oil again and turn on the heat if you're going to use it. Keep adding oil every couple minutes or as it dries. You're not looking for scalding hot metal, just warmer than say it would get with your holding it. Get a second set of hands and have them hold the receiver steady. Take the driver and place it in the mouth of the screw and put gentle turning pressure on it. Not enough to strip the mouth, but enough that it would probably turn the receiver if it weren't held. Now give the driver a good whack on the base. Each time you whack it, give it a little more turning force on impact. Repeat several times and it should come out.
I'm assuming the hole was tapped with a regular sized tap and when anodizing was done it shrunk to being undersized. Your screw goes in and displaces metal away by force, but once it's in it's now a press fit and will be very hard to get out (same concept as a chinese finger trap). It probably went in smooth because of it's relative size which is also why it stripped so easily.
The heat expands the hole - not much but it's more to help oil move down into the threads than to increase the holes size.
The oil lubricates and prevents the screw from bitting as it comes out and prevents friction from working against you.
The hardened driver will displace a small bit of metal as it's hit with the hammer and will resist deforming so the screw will deform and not it. You use a driver instead of a wrench because you need all impact force going straight down and you want the turning force equally offset near the center and not on a arc away from center that can easily tilt off center.
The hammer acts like an impact wrench. It causes a wave to push through the screw which can very momentarily expand the hole as it passes through to the receiver. It also jars loose the screw if it bites. It also places the resisting force away from the side you're turning against (which is the resisting side without impact).
Try that and get back to us. $20 in tools is better than a $50 visit to the gunsmith or a pretty chunk of money for a new receiver.
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