Understanding Mil-dot reticle

[ar15barrels]

I don't know how accurate the mil dots would be on a cheap (no offense) scope like that. To be able to range accurately you would need to have a real mildot scope not just a scope with a mildot pattern reticle which I am guessing that scope may be. Try it with a Leupold or Nightforce.

We have found during our caprc shoots that some of the cheap scopes with mil-dot reticles are not calibrated at any specific power and worse yet is that the instructions don't even tell you what power to use in order to mil with the reticle.

[ar15barrels]

this is the scope I am using.

http://swfa.com/Bushnell-10x40-Elite-3200-Rifle-Scope-P242.aspx

it was 188 bucks after tax when I got it. Company makes some great stuff, and I chose a fixed power scope so learning would be easier and I generally like 10x magnification anyway. I was reading reviews before I bought it and from what I understand these came with the barrett .50bmg if you didn't opt for the leup/NF.

That's probably one of a very small handfull of sub $900 mil-dot scopes worth owning.
The knobs are better than many scopes costing 3x the price.

[Pryde]

We have found during our caprc shoots that some of the cheap scopes with mil-dot reticles are not calibrated at any specific power and worse yet is that the instructions don't even tell you what power to use in order to mil with the reticle.

Randall his scope is a $50 fixed power "tactedge" as stated in post #10.
So that would mean it is not calibrated correctly at its only fixed power

In reference to the bushnell, I would suggest Vortex for a cheap scope because you are going to want mil knobs with a mildot reticle.

[ar15barrels]

speak of this, anyone know any decently cheap (less than $300), yet reliable mil dot scopes I can use to replace my Nikon Buckmaster 6-18x40 ???

Nikon Buckmaster 4-14 with side focus.
Bushnell Elite 3200 Tactical 5-15 is just a little bit over $300, but it has superior knobs to any other $300 class scope.

[ar15barrels]

So that would mean it is not calibrated correctly at its only fixed power

Probably.
You get what you pay for...

[ar15barrels]

In reference to the bushnell, I would suggest Vortex for a cheap scope because you are going to want mil knobs with a mildot reticle.

There is a lot of value in learning both moa and mils and being able to quickly convert in your head.
It's a great skill to have before jumping to a better scope with matching knobs/reticle.

[Henry Hill]

If your scope is a 2nd focal plane variable power scope, you MUST be on the proper power for the reticle to be accurate.

How would I know if its a 2nd focal plane and what the proper power is I read about the two but cannot locate the information on my scope's box/manual..

Randall his scope is a $50 fixed power "tactedge" as stated in post #10.
So that would mean it is not calibrated correctly at its only fixed power

In reference to the bushnell, I would suggest Vortex for a cheap scope because you are going to want mil knobs with a mildot reticle.

Hey could you explain this out a little bit more Doesn't the fact that it's 4x32 mean its variable or does '4x32' mean that the power is fixed at 4x, and the 32 is the size of the lens? Also why do you say its not calibrated at that power/ how would I find out what power its calibrated at? Sorry for all the questions and thanks for any input, still trying to learn all about these.

[pyro3k2]

While we are on the topic of good cheap optics. After I get this down the bushnell will be moving from my .223 to my .450BM leaving just irons on my ar. I was thinking of the millett TRS-1 CTD is asking $308 for it. I've read alot of good reviews about that scope, what do you guys think?

[ST5MF]

speak of this, anyone know any decently cheap (less than $300), yet reliable mil dot scopes I can use to replace my Nikon Buckmaster 6-18x40 ???

No such thing as GOOD CHEAP GLASS (oxymoron).

As a basic rule the "Glass" should always be more than the actual rifle...

I like NF and S&B and don't really have interest in anything but these 2 manufacturers at the moment.

[Cokebottle]

Hey could you explain this out a little bit more Doesn't the fact that it's 4x32 mean its variable or does '4x32' mean that the power is fixed at 4x, and the 32 is the size of the lens?

The latter.
4x32 = 4x mag, 32mm objective lens.
3-10x50 = 3-10x mag, 50mm objective lens.

[ar15barrels]

does '4x32' mean that the power is fixed at 4x, and the 32 is the size of the lens?

yes.
It sounds like it's not calibrated properly.
There's no fix for it either.

[ar15barrels]

I like NF and S&B and don't really have interest in anything but these 2 manufacturers at the moment.

No love for Premiere and USO?

[StraightArch]

The only thing seems hard ( I read the article that Pryde posted - reps for posting that) is that you have to estimate/know the height of your target. This would seem like the hardest part of range estimating and could cause problems very easily

Remember that you can take the height or width. only reason that height is preferred is because it is common for someone to not be straight on and thus the reading is of their bladed position and so the estimation of width has to take that into account.

Often people use well known averages to ballpark the height and width of certain targets. For example if your planning on doing social work It might me worth it to memorize certain averages (IE. shoulder width etc.) in order to ballpark your estimates adding or subtracting it to meet your target.

Also keep in mind you don't need to actually use your target as your point of reference, for example if your target is sitting next to an object that you know is a certain width or height that can be used for range estimation.

This allows you to find the range of an area prior to a target appearing.

[pyro3k2]

No such thing as GOOD CHEAP GLASS (oxymoron).

As a basic rule the "Glass" should always be more than the actual rifle...

I like NF and S&B and don't really have interest in anything but these 2 manufacturers at the moment.

times is tough, I'll buy one of those when things are on the up. In the mean time i'm going to settle for the best of the lower end of the market and just be happy I can go out on my time off and shoot.

[StraightArch]

There is a lot of value in learning both moa and mils and being able to quickly convert in your head.
It's a great skill to have before jumping to a better scope with matching knobs/reticle.

How would one go about learning this? Have any pro-tips?