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Barrel Break-In
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My AR cleaning has evolved in the past couple years. What I do now:
1. Remove charging handle and BCG. Disassemble BCG on a mat. Spray down charging handle and BCG parts with M-Pro7.
2. With upper removed from lower, put in cradle upside down. Spray receiver channel with M-Pro 7. Use plastic bristle brush on inside to loosen fouling. Use paper towel or rag to wipe out.
3. Holding upper muzzle down into a pan or other receptacle, spray M-Pro7 into chamber a few times and let M-Pro7 drip out of muzzle. Let sit in cradle. Use chamber cleaning brush to scrub chamber and lugs. Use 12gauge mop to wipe lug recess. Use 30 cal mop to wipe chamber.
4. Insert bore guide and let upper sit for several minutes (M-Pro7 soaking in chamber).
5. Use nylon brush in barrel for several strokes.
6. M-Pro7 on patches several times until clean. This will get out pretty much all carbon fouling and some copper.
7. Dry patch when carbon fouling gone.
8. Wet patch with Montana Xtreme a few times to clean copper.
9. Dry patch when patches not blue.
10. Done with barrel. Run lightly oiled patch through barrel if not shooting anymore.
During the time I'm letting the barrel soak, I'm also cleaning the BCG parts.
I think M-Pro7 is better for quality barrels, since your main goal is to get carbon/powder fouling out. Copper fouling will be negligible in a good barrel, and even then, M-Pro7 does a decent job getting residual copper out. Then Butch's Bore Shine or Montana Xtreme will get any leftover copper.
Distinguished Rifleman #1924
NRA Certified Instructor (Rifle and Metallic Cartridge Reloading) and RSO
NRL22 Match Director at WEGC
https://www.ocabj.netComment
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All good stuff...thanks. What about cleaning at the range? - PhilMy AR cleaning has evolved in the past couple years. What I do now:
1. Remove charging handle and BCG. Disassemble BCG on a mat. Spray down charging handle and BCG parts with M-Pro7.
2. With upper removed from lower, put in cradle upside down. Spray receiver channel with M-Pro 7. Use plastic bristle brush on inside to loosen fouling. Use paper towel or rag to wipe out.
3. Holding upper muzzle down into a pan or other receptacle, spray M-Pro7 into chamber a few times and let M-Pro7 drip out of muzzle. Let sit in cradle. Use chamber cleaning brush to scrub chamber and lugs. Use 12gauge mop to wipe lug recess. Use 30 cal mop to wipe chamber.
4. Insert bore guide and let upper sit for several minutes (M-Pro7 soaking in chamber).
5. Use nylon brush in barrel for several strokes.
6. M-Pro7 on patches several times until clean. This will get out pretty much all carbon fouling and some copper.
7. Dry patch when carbon fouling gone.
8. Wet patch with Montana Xtreme a few times to clean copper.
9. Dry patch when patches not blue.
10. Done with barrel. Run lightly oiled patch through barrel if not shooting anymore.
During the time I'm letting the barrel soak, I'm also cleaning the BCG parts.
I think M-Pro7 is better for quality barrels, since your main goal is to get carbon/powder fouling out. Copper fouling will be negligible in a good barrel, and even then, M-Pro7 does a decent job getting residual copper out. Then Butch's Bore Shine or Montana Xtreme will get any leftover copper.Comment
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This is a dupe but watch the video, very informitive.
There are 3 kinds of people in this world.
The wise, learn from the mistakes of others.
The smart, learn from their own mistakes.
The others, well......they just never learn.
"Is life so dear, or peace so sweet, as to be purchased at the price of chains and slavery? Forbid it, almighty God! I know not what course others may take; but as for me, Give Me Liberty, Or Give Me Death!"
Patrick Henry.Comment
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Carbon fouling is a function of the load more than the barrel. The reason that you are not seeing copper fouling is because you have a hand lapped barrel.
What load are you shooting? Try a different load and see how it works.
I have a Krieger in a 6.5x284 bolt gun and I never see copper in it even after 80-100 rounds and about 3-4 wet patches usually gets all the carbon out.Frank
One rifle, one planet, Holland's 375

Life Member NRA, CRPA and SAFComment
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Distinguished Rifleman #1924
NRA Certified Instructor (Rifle and Metallic Cartridge Reloading) and RSO
NRL22 Match Director at WEGC
https://www.ocabj.netComment
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The ammo used was PMC Bronze 55 grain FMJ. This is not what I intend to use going forward and was only used to break in the barrel, test the rifle, and get the scope reasonably sighted in.Carbon fouling is a function of the load more than the barrel. The reason that you are not seeing copper fouling is because you have a hand lapped barrel.
What load are you shooting? Try a different load and see how it works.
I have a Krieger in a 6.5x284 bolt gun and I never see copper in it even after 80-100 rounds and about 3-4 wet patches usually gets all the carbon out.
I have on order BlackHills remanufactured ammo FMJ in 55 grain and 69 grain (300 rounds total).
After that, I will be reloading my own.
Is copper fouling quite evident at the muzzle end? I have never seen it, so not sure what to look for.
- PhilComment
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Cleaning shouldn't take that much space. The size of a basic shooting bench will work fine for a working surface.
Worst case, use the tailgate of your truck/SUV if you're driving one. No one should give you static for cleaning behind the firing line if you have the upper separated from the lower.
Distinguished Rifleman #1924
NRA Certified Instructor (Rifle and Metallic Cartridge Reloading) and RSO
NRL22 Match Director at WEGC
https://www.ocabj.netComment
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There's no reason to break in the barrel. Do a search, you'll find that break-in procedures are for the most part an industry con.
Try putting this into google (without the quotes):
"site:calguns.net barrel break in"01001100 01100101 01100001 01110010 01101110 00100000 01110100 01101111 00100000 01110011 01110111 01101001 01101101 00100000 01001001 00100111 01101100 01101100 00100000 01110011 01100101 01100101 00100000 01111001 01101111 01110101 00100000 01100100 01101111 01110111 01101110 00100000 01101001 01101110 00100000 01100001 01110010 01101001 01111010 01101111 01101110 01100001 00100000 01100010 01100001 01111001 00101110
sigpicComment
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That depends on the range Nazi's and how hard they weild the iron fistCleaning shouldn't take that much space. The size of a basic shooting bench will work fine for a working surface.
Worst case, use the tailgate of your truck/SUV if you're driving one. No one should give you static for cleaning behind the firing line if you have the upper separated from the lower.There are 3 kinds of people in this world.
The wise, learn from the mistakes of others.
The smart, learn from their own mistakes.
The others, well......they just never learn.
"Is life so dear, or peace so sweet, as to be purchased at the price of chains and slavery? Forbid it, almighty God! I know not what course others may take; but as for me, Give Me Liberty, Or Give Me Death!"
Patrick Henry.Comment
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Copper fouling will show up as orange streaking in the bottom of the grooves and is pretty easy to see if you get the sun shining in the barrel.
If you use a copper cleaner it will show up as blue or green stains on your patches as you clean. You will usually see a little light green when you use a copper cleaner even on the best barrels but it should wipe out quickly and easily after couple of patches.Frank
One rifle, one planet, Holland's 375

Life Member NRA, CRPA and SAFComment
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