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I wanted to post this as I didn't really see any information anywhere. I recently purchased one of the following:
for the purposes of converting from the factory mlok handguard to something different. The factory mlok handguard mounting system is different from the non-mlok handguard and has a different takedown mechanism. It consists of a big collar assembly that goes around the the base of the barrel that the handguard itself mounts to with 4 screws around the perimeter (you can see the difference in the two systems here: https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/...PC-Carbine.pdf) The main visible difference is the takedown lever (small and thin for traditional vs large and triangular for mlok).
A general install video is here (its for the PC Charger which has its own takedown system but the MI Mlok handguard for the charger is semi free floated and uses the same system as the regular PCC).
Overall the part does what it does. It beats waiting around for Ruger to release parts that they never will.
Couple of notes:
1) The conversion only comes with the machined block and lever (A and B). You will need to reuse parts from your old handguard.
2) The OEM mlok handguard only comes with one screw (3) to attach its block to the barrel. You will need another #8-36 x 1/4" screw.
The takedown lever is a little tricky to remove the first time. Push in the takedown pin about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way in and then yank on the takedown lever with a pair of pliers. The new one should click into place (its very tactile)
3) You will need to reuse the locking assembly (1) and the barrel lock detent/spring (2). Do not lose (2) as it small and will go flying like the safety detent in an AR!
4) The barrel adjustment ring should ratchet (hence the detent). If the washer falls off when the barrel is not on the gun, then it is assembled incorrectly. There are two sets of grooves on the barrel extension. One is used to get the washer on, the washer is given a slight rotation and engages the second set of grooves which essentially captures it to keep it from falling off. You need to make sure that the washer is on the correct set of grooves before screwing the block in place.
5) You will probably need to use a new handguard attachment bolt as the OEM mlok handguard uses a different attachment system. The bolt from the Ruger 10/22 takedown works.
Using this will allow you use use the UTG, MI, and PMM handguards as well as any other handguard that uses the slim takedown lever. The open topped handguards will also allow you to replace the rear sight with a combo piece that allows you to cowitness with a red dot. The MI lever is also slightly more textured than the OEM slim one.
for the purposes of converting from the factory mlok handguard to something different. The factory mlok handguard mounting system is different from the non-mlok handguard and has a different takedown mechanism. It consists of a big collar assembly that goes around the the base of the barrel that the handguard itself mounts to with 4 screws around the perimeter (you can see the difference in the two systems here: https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/...PC-Carbine.pdf) The main visible difference is the takedown lever (small and thin for traditional vs large and triangular for mlok).
A general install video is here (its for the PC Charger which has its own takedown system but the MI Mlok handguard for the charger is semi free floated and uses the same system as the regular PCC).
Overall the part does what it does. It beats waiting around for Ruger to release parts that they never will.
Couple of notes:
1) The conversion only comes with the machined block and lever (A and B). You will need to reuse parts from your old handguard.
2) The OEM mlok handguard only comes with one screw (3) to attach its block to the barrel. You will need another #8-36 x 1/4" screw.
The takedown lever is a little tricky to remove the first time. Push in the takedown pin about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way in and then yank on the takedown lever with a pair of pliers. The new one should click into place (its very tactile)
3) You will need to reuse the locking assembly (1) and the barrel lock detent/spring (2). Do not lose (2) as it small and will go flying like the safety detent in an AR!
4) The barrel adjustment ring should ratchet (hence the detent). If the washer falls off when the barrel is not on the gun, then it is assembled incorrectly. There are two sets of grooves on the barrel extension. One is used to get the washer on, the washer is given a slight rotation and engages the second set of grooves which essentially captures it to keep it from falling off. You need to make sure that the washer is on the correct set of grooves before screwing the block in place.
5) You will probably need to use a new handguard attachment bolt as the OEM mlok handguard uses a different attachment system. The bolt from the Ruger 10/22 takedown works.
Using this will allow you use use the UTG, MI, and PMM handguards as well as any other handguard that uses the slim takedown lever. The open topped handguards will also allow you to replace the rear sight with a combo piece that allows you to cowitness with a red dot. The MI lever is also slightly more textured than the OEM slim one.
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