first time builder with questions

[tdaughg]

im putting together my very first ar15 and i think ive got all my lower end parts figured out but the upper is where i start getting lost with so many options. i also have yet to figure out how to make my money tree in my back yard to start producing so im working on a bit of a budget. ultimate goal would be to keep the build under $1k but im will to spend a little more if it means i get top quality parts. i dont plan on doing 600yd competition shooting or anything like that. just looking to make a really mean hole puncher.

lower half:
Kaiser defense lower (purchased but still waiting..8 days left..i swear im not counting the minutes)
RRA lpk w/ standard trigger and hogue grip (on backorder)
vltor emod stock? (something better for cheaper?)
bullet button of course (i can have any/all the evil features if i use a bb,10rd mag, and oal of 30"+ correct?)

upper half:
YHM black diamond specter or specter xl?

these are a little more then i was looking to spend but if they're really well built then i will probably go with one of them. is there an advantage to a rifle length over a mid length?

anything you would change or does this sound like a pretty solid build? thanks for any advice you can give.

[MasterYong]

A great way to keep your cost down would be to go for a different stock. If the one you listed is the one I think it is I've seen it for $250+ on various websites. You can get a standard A2 stock for about $50-70 if you poke around, I personally like the look better too (looks more solid to me) but that's just me. I think Addax Tactical has A2 stocks last I looked. They might have LPKs too, they had them a few weeks ago when I needed a couple kits and then you wouldn't be on backorder.

The biggest range of prices that I found when looking for parts was in uppers. I got a DPMS 16" A3 flat top upper with a bull barrel for $475 shipped, and it's one of most accurate rifle I've ever owned- I also paid $899 for a Sabre Defense 24" A3 flat top upper with a fluted bull barrel. I'm happy with both, but they're both for different guns. I plan on competing in matches with the SD upper, but the DPMS is my tactical beater for taking hiking, camping, etc. The DPMS is going to get dirty, basically.

I wouldn't buy anything too expensive for an upper (not over $650) if you're only going to be playing around with it. I don't think the average shooter would even know the difference (I know I probably wouldn't!).

You should DEFINITELY be able to build an AR-15 for less than $1000, though. My DPMS build cost me about $850 total, I think, although I haven't done any exact math on that. Parts are easier to find than you might think, if you're not picky.

(all the prices I listed above were in the last 6 weeks, post Obamanation)

[213sleeper]

I'm new to the AR stuff too. just for an example I just put my first AR together with what is listed below. Just a hair over $1k. I really want a better upper but like Masteryong said I probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference.

Make sure you do some searching on the forum here to find the best prices around. The vendors here are great.

CMMG Lower $225
CMMG LPK w/ BB $125
Magpul CTR stock $170
Bushmaster 16" carbine upper $525
Magpul PMag 10/30 $30

[jasonnorcal]

I'm saving up for an AA 6.5 upper(800$). The good news is ammo is relatively inexpensive. I just wanted something different than most people plus I want to hunt with it. I also think the A2 stock is the way to go. I've heard on this forum that RRA and Armalite are the best LPK's. Good luck with your build

[damndave]

you can get right around $1000 without any unnecessary parts (optic fancy stock etc)

just go with good ole fashioned iron sights

[aplinker]

Start with my signature post below.

Consider something other than the YHM upper.

[tomd1584]

I'd say get a CMMG from Marksarmory for $900, but you already bought stuff.

[Justintoxicated]

you guys are forgetting certain things.

$525 Bushmaster Upper Complete
$100 for RR Parts kit with non rolling pins
($640 after shipping)
$85 Bravo Company Stock (Great stock for the money, very little wiggle in my Gen1) + H Buffer
Cheap lower + Dros $~200
BB $25
Bravo Company Carry handle Sight $110
Magazine $20

$1080. + shipping / tax ($50)

If you start tacking on more stuff like grips, Chrome BCG's 2 stage trigger or stocks like the E-mod you will go over budget.

I have both the Emod and KIS Bravo Companys tock and the bravo company weighs less and has less wiggle. The Emod has a nicer cheekweld and compartments but costs significantly more once you add the buffer tube setup. I'd recommend it since you can always just keep the buffer tube setup if you get the milspec one and add a different stock later if you do not like it.

In fact I jsut got this setup only I picked up a Hogue handgaurd and grip off ebay for $60 shipped and im going to toss a nicer BCG into it.

I like the feel of my carbine more than my Middy, its nice simple and light weight. I haven't shot it yet though.

[tdaughg]

thanks for all the info. im definitely going to have some more research to do. whats the major advantage of ff hand guards over non-ff? i like having the rails that are on the ff guards so i could add a bipod later on down the road and i would have more sight options.


Justintoxicated: why the H buffer over the standard? and why not the H2 or H3? also am i blind or is there no difference between the gen1 and gen2? i looked all over both descriptions on bravo's website and didnt see anything.

[aplinker]

thanks for all the info. im definitely going to have some more research to do. whats the major advantage of ff hand guards over non-ff? i like having the rails that are on the ff guards so i could add a bipod later on down the road and i would have more sight options.


Justintoxicated: why the H buffer over the standard? and why not the H2 or H3? also am i blind or is there no difference between the gen1 and gen2? i looked all over both descriptions on bravo's website and didnt see anything.

Buffer weight needs to be tailored to your gun. You can't simply buy an H2 or H3 without knowing how it shoots. Please don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

FF rails do not touch the barrel and enhance accuracy, as any stress applied to the handguard is not transferred to the barrel. They're not essential, but are a nice "upgrade." If you're trying to maintain a budget, consider Magpul's MOE plastic handguard, to which you can add rail panels on the cheap.

I would encourage you to put money into your bolt and carrier. Get an LMT or BCM MP tested bolt. Get a good mid-length, chrome-lined 16" barrel (or 18" with rifle gas in SS or chrome-lined). Good barrel manuf's are Sabre, BCM, Centurion Arms. CMMG isn't pretty good, too.

[missiontrails]

Buffer weight needs to be tailored to your gun. You can't simply buy an H2 or H3 without knowing how it shoots. Please don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

FF rails do not touch the barrel and enhance accuracy, as any stress applied to the handguard is not transferred to the barrel. They're not essential, but are a nice "upgrade." If you're trying to maintain a budget, consider Magpul's MOE plastic handguard, to which you can add rail panels on the cheap.

I would encourage you to put money into your bolt and carrier. Get an LMT or BCM MP tested bolt. Get a good mid-length, chrome-lined 16" barrel (or 18" with rifle gas in SS or chrome-lined). Good barrel manuf's are Sabre, BCM, Centurion Arms. CMMG isn't pretty good, too.

Did you mean "CMMG isn't pretty good, too", or "IS."

[Ian]

any reason to stay away from the YHM upper?

[tdaughg]

any reason to stay away from the YHM upper?

it sounds like its just far more then i need and will put me over budget but a fine upper otherwise. some one with more experience could better answer that though.

uclaplinker: would it be best to get a standard weight buffer to start with? also what would determine the need for a heavier buffer?