Need help removing a Hogue tube and finding a DPMS wrench

[r1ghtw1ng]

Update: Post #13

Hey folks,

I've had this RRA Predator Pursuit upper for awhile now and am looking to switch out the Hogue Overmolded 2-piece handguard to something else. My goal is to remove it and sell the handguard to recoup some costs, but it's getting to the point where I might just get medieval with a pipe wrench and be done with it. Is there even any demand for these tube-style handguards? I know it can be separated, but I couldn't get any purchase with the strap wrench and I don't have a heat gun/blowtorch handy.... although the 4th is coming up.



So far, I broke a brand new 6" strap wrench from Lowes. I chucked it in an upper vise block and really put my weight into it, and the wrench cracked. Yes, I removed the gas tube. No, I did not apply heat.



I really don't want to spend a lot of money buying 1 time tools, but I did some searches and found one of Randall's posts on arfcom about a DPMS Free Float Tube Wrench that engaged the upper holes from behind the tube. Does anyone have one I could try? I'd definitely pay shipping both ways + $??. Again, I don't want to sink a lot of cash into a 1-time tool, but I'd hate to destroy something that someone could possibly use.

Here's his pic:



Link to the wrench on Midway... Everyone is out since it has been discontinued

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007037560

If anyone has tips/tricks, or has a line on that wrench, let me know.
If there is no market for this style tube, I guess my last resort will be to file some flats into the barrel nut and just pipe wrench it off. I called a local smith and he wants $100 to remove/install a handguard. Pass.

Thanks in advance.

[Sicarius]

Unfortunately heat might be the key. I dont see any mechanical index or lock outside the gas tube and being a factory upper, i am guessing that they used a locking compound on the threads.
As for resale, i dont believe there is much of a market for those style tubes.
Kevin

[Quickdraw559]

This looks like it might work for $4.

https://team15tactical.com/products/artl02

[r1ghtw1ng]

This looks like it might work for $4.
https://team15tactical.com/products/artl02

Thanks, I've been in the market for a reaction rod style piece as well, so I might just pick that up as well.

[Red Mist Maker]

If the wife has a good quality hair dryer, it will work on the high heat setting, it will just take a bit longer to heat up.
I have used this in a pinch when I was away from home and had to do some modifications to others AR's and didn't have my heat gun.
The wife has one of the Hogue tubes on her carbine, and heat (in moderation) is your friend when trying to remove the Hogue tube off of the barrel nut.

[dozer wright]

Do you have a Ar Tool with the pins ? Is so put the pins in the end of the hand guard and wrench it.
I've also used 2 drill bits in the holes in the end of the hand guard and a Large screwdriver between them to turn the hand guard.

[akjunkie]

Thanks, I've been in the market for a reaction rod style piece as well, so I might just pick that up as well.

Reaction rods. Solid steel. NOT aluminum.

I have both 556 and 762. Works great.

https://botach.com/search.php?search_query=reaction%20rod&section=product

[r1ghtw1ng]

Do you have a Ar Tool with the pins ? Is so put the pins in the end of the hand guard and wrench it.
I've also used 2 drill bits in the holes in the end of the hand guard and a Large screwdriver between them to turn the hand guard.

I have an armorer's wrench, but as you can see in the pic, the mouth of the opening with the pins is too narrow since the upper is in the way. Which is why the DPMS wrench was recommended for this type of job.




I think I understand what you are recommending with the drill bits, but unfortunately, the upper again, would be in the way for that method.

[Scotty]

Even Hogue's installation video shows using their wrench which is it much just a strap wrench or to use a strap wrench.

Considering everyone buys handguards with keylok and Weaver rails, might as well take a pipe wrench to it.

[Quickdraw559]

Thanks, I've been in the market for a reaction rod style piece as well, so I might just pick that up as well.

Reaction rods. Solid steel. NOT aluminum.

I have both 556 and 762. Works great.

https://botach.com/search.php?search...ection=product

I ended up getting a brand that uses aluminum so I don’t damage the barrel extension. The Reaction Rod is great, but I was sitting there cranking on an expensive barrel with steel in the extension wondering why I’m using steel instead of aluminum. It might not matter since a bcg usually lives in there, but I figure I’m not strong enough to bend the aluminum.

[dozer wright]

I have an armorer's wrench, but as you can see in the pic, the mouth of the opening with the pins is too narrow since the upper is in the way. Which is why the DPMS wrench was recommended for this type of job.




I think I understand what you are recommending with the drill bits, but unfortunately, the upper again, would be in the way for that method.

Are there not holes in the End closest to the gas block ?
You don't need the drill bits that far apart .

[r1ghtw1ng]

There are no holes at the end closest to the gas block, it is just a threaded portion to screw the 2nd piece on

So, I was talking with my buddy and we are going to try 2 things.

1. Oil filter wrench with a layer or leather/chamois or a piece of serpentine belt for traction.

2. We might look for an angle grinder spanner wrench. If the pins will fit the holes, it just might work. On youtube there are a bunch of DIY videos on making adjustable pin wrenches / spanner wrenches. There is something called an adjustable gland wrench that looks like it might work as well.

This is turning into a fun little side project. I"ll update you all on progress if/when we get it off.

[r1ghtw1ng]

Thanks for all of your advice. My buddy brought over his oil filter wrench, but it was 2.75" and the tube was 2" diameter, so it was too big. He had a pin wrench, but the pins just wouldn't line up. He gave a try with his strap wrench, but the strap was deforming and looked like it would tear. At that point I said it was not worth spending more time or $ on it, so I took an 18" pipe wrench and it just came right off. We didn't see any evidence of loctite (or grease) and the threads looked fairly dry.

Oh well, time to shop for a new handguard.

[StoneTower]

You could had drilled a hole in a 2 x 4 with a 2" hole saw and then cut the hole in half. You clamp the two halves around your handguard and then twist the handguard off. Athletic tape works great for keeping things from slipping.