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M1A Barrel Timing issue (gunsmith reccomendations)

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  • Psudeonym
    Junior Member
    • Sep 2012
    • 19

    M1A Barrel Timing issue (gunsmith reccomendations)

    I've been tinkering with my M1A (late production springfield armory, purchased used, none of the serial numbers match) trying to find some accuracy, and i noticed that the op rod was hitting the piston waay off to the side, like 3-4 mm.

    I tried nudging the op rod guide with a hammer, but i guess when this one was produced they really wanted to keep the op rod guides in place, i can see knurling or something cut in to the bolster that the op rod guide is pressed on, and the roll pin keeping it is really substantial, and really deep in to the barrel material.

    I figured that if they went through so much trouble to keep the op rod guide in place, they must have set it's angle pretty carefully, so i checked the angle of the feed ramps, and they are off from center about 7 degrees counterclockwise.

    in a way this makes sense, because my windage always had to be set way over to the right.

    I've compensated my zero but i was wondering if the barrel being out of time by around 7 degrees would cause mechanical issues aside from messing with barrel harmonics and leading to increased op rod and piston wear.

    I don't know any gunsmiths in the bay area, and i'm wary the tools i'd have to buy and the risk of messing up headspace if i tried to do it myself. So if it's just the issues i've mentioned i think i'm fine with that for now. Otherwise if there would be big trouble from this i guess i'd like to know if anyone knows a gunsmith near the bay area who works on m1as.
    Last edited by Psudeonym; 03-26-2020, 9:05 PM.
    Kind of inexperienced.
    Springfield M1A
    Fite-Lite SCR build: upper reciever parts sourced
  • #2
    jarhead714
    Calguns Addict
    • Dec 2012
    • 7677

    You need an armorer, not a gunsmith. I think there’s one in Oregon. Maybe check the M14 Forum. Some barrels will not time to certain receivers I believe.

    Comment

    • #3
      GunDog
      Senior Member
      • Dec 2008
      • 1800

      I'd recommend contacting Springfield Armory, Inc. first to discuss the issue with them.

      The M14 guy in Oregon is Ted Brown of the Shooters' Den. Ted is is located in the Medford/Jacksonville area and is a very knowledgeable and skilled craftsman for U. S. military service rifles.

      NRA Life Benefactor Member
      CRPA Life Member
      VFW Life Member

      Comment

      • #4
        Dirk Tungsten
        Senior Member
        • Nov 2007
        • 2032

        OP, you said none of your serial numbers match. Do you have an early gun with all USGI parts?

        Comment

        • #5
          smoothy8500
          Veteran Member
          • Sep 2009
          • 3834

          Originally posted by Dirk Tungsten
          OP, you said none of your serial numbers match.
          There's only one serial number on M1A/M14's and Garands, the other numbers are drawing numbers. They could be GI or Springfield Inc.

          Nevertheless, it probably should go to Springfield to get the timing or op-rod guide straightened out.
          Last edited by smoothy8500; 03-26-2020, 5:33 PM.

          Comment

          • #6
            Psudeonym
            Junior Member
            • Sep 2012
            • 19

            It's a recent production Springfield Armory M1A i picked up used. Idk if they're supposed to have matching serial numbers or not, but it seemed noteworthy so i mentioned it.

            Thanks GunDog and jarhead714, I made a query to SA, Ted Brown, Smith Enterprise out in AZ, and LRB and Fulton just for good measure. Someone else messaged me with a more local lead too.

            In general its condition is a little poor for what it is, so i might end up just accepting the risk of ruining it and making it a project gun; but in that case i'd probably have to find somewhere where i could shoot it with a lanyard after any headspace/chamber changes.
            Kind of inexperienced.
            Springfield M1A
            Fite-Lite SCR build: upper reciever parts sourced

            Comment

            • #7
              smoothy8500
              Veteran Member
              • Sep 2009
              • 3834

              Originally posted by Psudeonym
              Idk if they're supposed to have matching serial numbers or not, but it seemed noteworthy so i mentioned it.
              Here's some info as to what are "drawing numbers", basically spelling out what blueprint or spec sheet each part was assigned.

                What Is A Drawing Number??   An understanding of the engineering drawing numbers which were stamped on some M1 parts is necessary in order to fully comprehend the evolution of those components. For example: A hammer may be marked C46008-2 SA. The “C” designates the physical size of the drawing. The “46008” is the engineering drawing number. The “-2” is the production revision to the drawing. And finally, the “SA” indicates that this part was manufactured by Springfield Armory. The first production rifles manufactured by Springfield Armory were marked with an engineering drawing number on virtually every part which was large enough to be stamped—and even some that were barely so, such as the buttplate screws. This practice fell by the wayside as the demand for increased production grew. The drawing number stamped on many parts evolved through a series of changes prior to being deleted entirely. The dashes, gaps, and omission of spaces between letters and numbers are of great importance in the identification of components. Generally speaking, the evolutionary pattern of the drawing number began with a dash between the letter designating the physical size of the drawing, and the drawing number. The second step was the deletion of the dash, leaving a space between the letter and the drawing number. The third step eliminated the space. For example: the rear sight cover began production stamped B-8872. It then changed to B 8872, then B8872, and finally the number was deleted. This type of change in markings was common to many parts. However, this pattern was not always followed. Individual components must be studied in order to fully understand the complete rifle. This knowledge aids the collector in determining the chronology of some parts and identification of original rifles. Proper recording of such detail is critical when analyzing a rifle or preparing a data sheet. The revision number of the component is most often the key to dating parts and is of primary interest to most collectors. Generally speaking, the lower revision numbers were produced first and the higher numbers last. However, review of the individual parts will reveal this was not always the case. Another item to add to the confusion is a significant physical change of a part without the attendant change in the revision number. Once more, this did not happen often, but it did occur on certain components. Finally, bolts, operating rods, trigger housings, and hammers of World War II vintage can be distinguished from post war pieces by the inclusion of a “65” or “55” prefix to the drawing number of the later components, in nearly all cases. For example: World War II era manufactured hammer C46008-2 SA, versus post World War II manufactured hammer SA D5546008.   Excerpted from The M1 Garand: World War II copyright 1993 by Scott A. Duff  

              Comment

              • #8
                ar15barrels
                I need a LIFE!!
                • Jan 2006
                • 56939

                Originally posted by Psudeonym
                I've been tinkering with my M1A (late production springfield armory, purchased used, none of the serial numbers match) trying to find some accuracy, and i noticed that the op rod was hitting the piston waay off to the side, like 3-4 mm.

                I tried nudging the op rod guide with a hammer, but i guess when this one was produced they really wanted to keep the op rod guides in place, i can see knurling or something cut in to the bolster that the op rod guide is pressed on, and the roll pin keeping it is really substantial, and really deep in to the barrel material.

                I figured that if they went through so much trouble to keep the op rod guide in place, they must have set it's angle pretty carefully, so i checked the angle of the feed ramps, and they are off from center about 7 degrees counterclockwise.

                in a way this makes sense, because my windage always had to be set way over to the right.
                I don't know which direction you are referencing your clockwise or left/right from so I will ask a simpler question.
                Is the barrel screwed in too far or not far enough?
                The barrel has standard (right hand) threads.
                If the gun is pointed at you and you were able to screw the barre into the receiver, you would be turning it clockwise.
                Now with that in mind, is the barrel screwed in too far or not far enough?

                7 degrees of barrel rotation would change headspace by about 0.002" which may or may not matter depending on which end of the spectrum the gun is on now.
                Randall Rausch

                AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
                Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
                Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
                Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
                Most work performed while-you-wait.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Psudeonym
                  Junior Member
                  • Sep 2012
                  • 19

                  clockwise looking at the chamber from behind the stock. it's screwed too far in, which means the barrel will have to come out the front. This is why i'm kind of worried, if the barrel needed to screw in It seems like it wouldn't be hard to ream the chamber a bit deeper, but we can't un ream a chamber
                  Kind of inexperienced.
                  Springfield M1A
                  Fite-Lite SCR build: upper reciever parts sourced

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    ar15barrels
                    I need a LIFE!!
                    • Jan 2006
                    • 56939

                    Originally posted by Psudeonym
                    clockwise looking at the chamber from behind the stock. it's screwed too far in, which means the barrel will have to come out the front.
                    This is why i'm kind of worried, if the barrel needed to screw in It seems like it wouldn't be hard to ream the chamber a bit deeper, but we can't un ream a chamber
                    If you are behind the stock, looking at the chamber and the sight and gas block are clockwise from straight, the barrel needs to be screwed in some MORE.
                    Randall Rausch

                    AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
                    Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
                    Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
                    Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
                    Most work performed while-you-wait.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Psudeonym
                      Junior Member
                      • Sep 2012
                      • 19

                      sorry yeah i misspoke, i meant counterclockwise
                      Kind of inexperienced.
                      Springfield M1A
                      Fite-Lite SCR build: upper reciever parts sourced

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        ar15barrels
                        I need a LIFE!!
                        • Jan 2006
                        • 56939

                        Originally posted by Psudeonym
                        sorry yeah i misspoke, i meant counterclockwise
                        Then the barrel needs to be removed, have the shoulder rolled down and then reinstalled to straight.
                        An alternative is to shim it 0.002" if you don't have a way to roll the shoulder.
                        Randall Rausch

                        AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
                        Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
                        Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
                        Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
                        Most work performed while-you-wait.

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          BrokerB
                          Calguns Addict
                          • Sep 2010
                          • 5073

                          Do not do business with SEI. Dirtbag of the first order.
                          Beans and Bullets

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            Psudeonym
                            Junior Member
                            • Sep 2012
                            • 19

                            what's the dirt on them?
                            Kind of inexperienced.
                            Springfield M1A
                            Fite-Lite SCR build: upper reciever parts sourced

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              kendog4570
                              Calguns Addict
                              • Dec 2008
                              • 5160

                              I have the tools and experience to address your issue. Headspace may be affected and not come in 7.62 NATO spec when barrel clocked correctly. No way to tell without inspecting it. If it is a new gun from SA send it back to them. It most likely will come back right.

                              Comment

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