M1 carbine is no longer semi auto =/, gas block came off!! updated the pics

[Geofois]

I rebuilt the bolt and my Iver Johnson was shooting great. No soft strikes, every shot went off. Then I notice it's not extracting the cases. I just took apart the rifle at home and the gas block fell right out. Take a look at the picture. You can see where the slide was riding against the gas block and grinding it down so it was a time bomb waiting to go off. There is no weld holding the gas block on as in all the pics I've ever seen. It looks like it was held on with some sort of metallic solder or glue. It seems repairable with a nice bead of weld along each side. I imagine I'll need to grind down the gas block slightly to keep that from happening again. Obviously that's what I get for buying an IJ. I guess I'll calls some smiths and see about fixing it. It fits perfect with no signs of crack. Just looks like it came unglued hehe. I wonder what material was used to attach it in the first place.

I updated the pic and it's just silver not copper/brass looking.

Looks like it has happened before to another IJ

https://www.northeastshooters.com/xen/threads/just-about-had-it-with-this-iver-johnson-m1c.170248/

[major burnout]

Glue it back on

[Geofois]

I bet you're right. It just looks like it was glued on. What kind of high temp glue will work I wonder. Wonder if I can also do a bead of weld with something like this. I would think a gun smith can do a permanent job for not too much. Maybe I'll ask ar15barrels.com

https://www.harborfreight.com/100-Watt-Soldering-Gun-Kit-64056.html

[pacrat]

BONDO

Looks like a piss po job of silver solder. Which if done correctly would last forever. The "splotchy" look of surfaces is indicative of what happens when surfaces are not hot enough to properly melt/bond the solder. Or improperly "fluxed".

[pacrat]

https://www.harborfreight.com/100-Wa...Kit-64056.html

FIFY

Requires proper cleaning, down to bare metal, fluxing, and silver soldering. Which requires a "torch".

If in doubt, check with AR-15 on "gunsmith" forum.

[Geofois]

Here is a new pic. You can see it's a brass colored type of glue or solder.

[pacrat]

Here is a new pic. You can see it's a brass colored type of glue or solder.

FIFY again. Solder not glue. And not any old lead/tin solder. The brass color is the silver/lead alloy. Regular old lead/tin solder is shiny silver color, used in sheet metal, electrical, etc is LOW temp. Low Strength.

Yeah, I know, you would think "silver solder" would be silver color. But it isn't.

You need High Strength, High temp.

[Geofois]

I see, yeah I just watched a video and what they used was 80% copper 15% silver and 5% phosphorus(stay silv 15). That's probably similar so has a copper look to it. It looks like I can use my handheld torch to do it but maybe the material needed needs a hotter torch? I wonder how they did it originally since it doesn't look like they applied from the outside. Maybe they got it molten then stuck the parts together. Maybe I should go along the entire outside edge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdCK58UcnhA

[pacrat]

I see, yeah I just watched a video and what they used was 80% copper 15% silver and 5% phosphorus(stay silv 15). That's probably similar so has a copper look to it. It looks like I can use my handheld torch to do it but maybe the material needed needs a hotter torch? I wonder how they did it originally since it doesn't look like they applied from the outside. Maybe they got it molten then stuck the parts together. Maybe I should go along the entire outside edge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdCK58UcnhA

OK, lets look at differences. Thin copper tube [video] compared to large chunks of steel. A small hand held propane torch on a bottle will do the tubing just fine. But your gas block/barrel are a lot thicker. And act as "heat sinks" literally sucking the heat away as fast as a little propane torch can apply it.

Would require a MAPP GAS torch at minimum. And best done with an Oxy-Acetylene set up.

As to beveling parts and running a peripheral bead with a TIG. I honestly don't know, but seems feaseable.

I would check with Randall at AR-15 barrels here on the gunsmith forum. IIRC he's in Van Nuys and not far from you.

[Geofois]

This is another video that seems like more what needs to be done. This guy silver soldered a steel pistol frame. He tinned both surfaces. It looks like he's using a handheld torch like what I have but I'm not sure what gas he's using. Is he using a mapp gas torch? I'll look that up. Yup, I'll get with Randall. I had him thread my 308 barrel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OmJDH7H6vk

[pacrat]

This is another video that seems like more what needs to be done. This guy silver soldered a steel pistol frame. He tinned both surfaces. It looks like he's using a handheld torch like what I have but I'm not sure what gas he's using. Is he using a mapp gas torch? I'll look that up. Yup, I'll get with Randall. I had him thread my 308 barrel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OmJDH7H6vk

I commend you for proper "due diligence". Randall can remove all doubt in short order.

I believe the last video is using a Propane bottle torch with "turbo tip". MAPP is a YELLOW color bottle.

Also worthy of note is the "thickness" of parts in vid. Not very thick, and easily heated. No "heat sink" effect. Unlike your parts.

Best of luck with your project.

[Geofois]

I was at a friend's house and I brought up silver solder and sitting next to me was the MAP torch.

Searched for silver solder and saw this at Brownells. Seems like what is needed. I updated the picture above to add what it looks like when cleaned. It's bright silver looking. The amazon kit comes with 6% silver solder and flux and something else. Brownells is 4% silver. Both overlap in strength 10-25k psi vs 14-28k psi.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/solders-flux/1-oz-hi-force-44-ribbon-sku080649301-709-2888.aspx?cm_mmc=cse-_-Itwine-_-shopzilla-_-080-649-301&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=connexity&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=080-649-301

[Geofois]

Let's see if it stays on this time. I have quadruple the solder as before. I don't mean just amount I mean actual contact. Before it looked like the factory barely did some tinning and that was it but now it's completely tinned on both sides plus I added some around all the edges. I'll take it out Monday and see. I did have to drill out a little solder to clear the hole. I'll need to clean out the barrel and make sure there is no solder droplets that stuck to the barrel.

[M1XdColt]

I rebuilt the bolt and my Iver Johnson was shooting great. No soft strikes, every shot went off. Then I notice it's not extracting the cases. I just took apart the rifle at home and the gas block fell right out. Take a look at the picture. You can see where the slide was riding against the gas block and grinding it down so it was a time bomb waiting to go off. There is no weld holding the gas block on as in all the pics I've ever seen. It looks like it was held on with some sort of metallic solder or glue. It seems repairable with a nice bead of weld along each side. I imagine I'll need to grind down the gas block slightly to keep that from happening again. Obviously that's what I get for buying an IJ. I guess I'll calls some smiths and see about fixing it. It fits perfect with no signs of crack. Just looks like it came unglued hehe. I wonder what material was used to attach it in the first place.

I updated the pic and it's just silver not copper/brass looking.

Looks like it has happened before to another IJ
https://www.northeastshooters.com/xe...on-m1c.170248/

you need a 9" barrel carbine ? All you need is take the gas Piston off of that and just mount it on the 9" and you're good to go

[The War Wagon]

[STRIKE]
Requires proper cleaning, down to bare metal, fluxing, and silver soldering. Which requires a "torch".

If in doubt, check with AR-15 on "gunsmith" forum.

^^^THIS.


But if you want GOOD gunsmithing advice, check with M4C.net