How to safely dissolve glued up baseplates?

[2shotjoe]

Try a heat gun or hair dryer.

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[floogy]

I would leave it alone. If you manage to get it off, you just proved you didn't permanently block it in the first place.

Proved to whom?

I can unblock every single permanently blocked mag I have. Factory or otherwise.

Acetone may work, depending on the epoxy used. It shouldn't damage the mags, but test a small area to make sure it doesn't soften the plastic.

[Ki6vsm]

I prefer zero-cost solutions, especially when new mags are $50+ (MPX).

Agreed. And how could something that costs nothing to be "not cost effective"?

Hell, just start buying 10-rnd conversion mags online, which are in plentiful supply and at no risk of being barred from import by some upcoming "stay". And then go to work on those in your spare time.

[Vagabond]

If the glue/epoxy won't come loose and you can't find inserts online then another option is to find someone to design and 3D print new inserts. I've done it for some Sigs and pmags. They work great.


Edit: I see now you are asking about base plates. I thought it said inserts at first. Printed baseplates won't look as good.

[AKSOG]

I would probably just destroy the baseplatea and buy new ones. Depends on the epoxy. If I could make progress prying it off between the plate and mag with a pick or something I would try that first. Then go midievel if that didnt work

[toiletfighter]

I had some blocked pmags that had a JB Weld epoxy on the plates. The epoxy will melt @ 350 farenheit, the pmags are rated much higher.

Used a heat gun on the plates until goey, they simply pushed them off and pulled the blocks. Wipe off excess epoxy while warm, run a bristle brush on the baseplate and magazine to clear off any little leftovers. Easy peesy.

[moleculo]

Heat Gun (could warp the base plate if not careful) or dip in boiling water for a couple of minutes. Boiling water trick is almost too easy for softening epoxy...

[solidfreshdope]

Heat Gun (could warp the base plate if not careful) or dip in boiling water for a couple of minutes. Boiling water trick is almost too easy for softening epoxy...

Boiling water works well.

[The War Wagon]

Think along the lines of a Sig Sauer MPX magazine or a Pmag

Think along the lines of joining Northeast Shooters forum, or a NJ or IL gun forum, and sell them to the poor saps THERE instead.

[stix213]

Boiling water works well.

This sounds like a good idea. Shouldn't get too hot. I might try it later. Have some OD green pmags I don't see in stock.

[mlentzner]

Agreed. And how could something that costs nothing to be "not cost effective"?

Hell, just start buying 10-rnd conversion mags online, which are in plentiful supply and at no risk of being barred from import by some upcoming "stay". And then go to work on those in your spare time.

Depends on what your time is worth. If it takes a hour to "unconvert" a $22 magazine then you're working at $22/hr. Yes, it's not quite that simple, but you get the point.

[lordmorgul]

Think along the lines of joining Northeast Shooters forum, or a NJ or IL gun forum, and sell them to the poor saps THERE instead.

Yep there are oppressed on both ends and the middle of our states! You can take a 10rd mag, limit to 7, and make some guys in NY happy they have the option of a few more rounds when SHTF and they can open it to 10!


Andrew - Lancaster, CA
NRA Life Member, CRPA member, Calguns.net contributor, CGF / SAF / FPC / CCRKBA / GOA / NAGR / NRA-ILA contributor, USCCA member - Support your defenders!

[Ki6vsm]

Depends on what you time is worth. If it takes a hour to "unconvert" a $22 magazine then you're working at $22/hr. Yes, it's not quite that simple, but you get the point.

That's an interesting way to look at it. And I don't disagree. But I figure my time in the evening is free to watch TV or to tinker on stuff like this. Plus, it helps to look at this as.... recycling. Or making something you already own "better".

In my limited experience I'll say that the time to convert varies with mag type and who you purchased it from (i.e. by what method they used). For example, I think that Gen2 Magpuls are easier than Gen3s. Seems like the G3 base plates have more surface area contacting the mag body, therefore more bonded surface. Much harder to break free.

Also if they used a short 1/16" roll pin in the base vs long.

Hot Tip for anyone worried about mangling their magpul base plates: Any ragged holes you make in the plate or body can be filled permanently later using JB Weld. Just be sure that at the point it hardens to a "plastic" or solid rubbery state, you do your shaping of excess material with a razor/Exacto blade or similar. Slice off anything "proud", as the Brits and Aussies say. Especially on this inside areas. You don't want to end up with an interference fit between parts. Then you can just paint over the outside or leave it be.