Quick question: flash hider timing

[beanz2]

Question for the hive: do flash hiders need to be timed? It's a three prong type. Maybe I can still put shims underneath before the Rocksett dries, LOL.

[badfish71]

Short answer is no.

[God Bless America]

Three equally spaced tines? No timing.

[beanz2]

Thanks, guys!

[BarrettM99]

Some need to be timed/indexed, others do not. Pics would help get you a better answer.

[divingin]

Not knowing much about that type. I would assume that you would time it to where one of the open parts is straight up, and one of the prongs is straight down when holding the rifle on target.

Someone correct me if I am wrong

Flash hider is to direct any muzzle flash from the shooters line of sight. Upper opening(s) should be anywhere but straight up.

[Usmc0844spare]

Flash hider is to direct any muzzle flash from the shooters line of sight. Upper opening(s) should be anywhere but straight up.

Well, then every M16A2 I saw in the Corps was assembled wrong.

I DO get what you are saying though, I was always confused as to how a flash hider hides the flash from me if the vents are oriented vertically upward. But that IS how they are sposed to be assembled. The solid bit of your typical A2 flash hider goes to the bottom of the barrel to prevent muzzle blast from kicking up dust.

[HooYah]

If it's an open tine/prong style FH, it doesn't need to be timed. If it has ports, then you will need to time it with shims preferably.

[beanz2]

Some need to be timed/indexed, others do not. Pics would help get you a better answer.

Pics (right hand view, top view, left hand view):



It's a Dead Air Armament flash hider on a Sig Rattler. The barrel has a tapered shoulder, but they supply a tapered washer to provide a square shoulder. Unfortunately, I didn't pay close attention how the stock flash hider sat before I removed it, which is why I came here for answers.

Thanks again.

[Usmc0844spare]

I'd say based on other responses here, if it's torqued on at this point, just leave it, its fine.

However for me, who is inexplicably OCD about stuff, I would no doubt be driven to remove it and time it for looks purposes. Me? I'd go with a slot facing upward, but that's just me.

[BarrettM99]

Pics (right hand view, top view, left hand view):



It's a Dead Air Armament flash hider on a Sig Rattler. The barrel has a tapered shoulder, but they supply a tapered washer to provide a square shoulder. Unfortunately, I didn't pay close attention how the stock flash hider sat before I removed it, which is why I came here for answers.

Thanks again.

Good pics. That helps a lot. So, the groove you see at the bottom picture should end up at the top. This is to make it easier to line up your suppressor when mounting it. It’s not like you have a suppressor or anyway...unless you do....

Other than that, it needs no timing or indexing. Hope that explanation was adequate.

[spfabrication]

The hole for the pin/weld should go on the bottom.

[beanz2]

I'd say based on other responses here, if it's torqued on at this point, just leave it, its fine.

However for me, who is inexplicably OCD about stuff, I would no doubt be driven to remove it and time it for looks purposes. Me? I'd go with a slot facing upward, but that's just me.

Finally my OCD got the best of me and I had to redo it. Put the tip of the barrel in boiling water, waited 5 minutes for the Rocksett to soften then went ape to twist the flash hider off...

I didn't want to stack too many shims as I don't want to risk baffle strikes, so I used the thinnest one DA provided. I guess I could use a slightly thicker one and get an opening between the tines to face up, but at least this time it doesn't look so cattywampus.

[beanz2]

The hole for the pin/weld should go on the bottom.

Good point. I didn't check. Maybe if I ever re-do this again LOL.