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This Lower had a hammer pin hole that needed repaired. I used Alumaweld brazing rods, a torch and an infrared thermometer to plug this hole for redrilling. There may be some lower temp rods out there but the ones I used work best in the 730~750 range with a noticeable side effect... The Black anodizing started to brown at about 650F and reached this shade at about 750F. Call it good or bad depending on if you are going for an FDE/camo build or not.
Here's the steps:
1 Clean up the whole area really good, no oil or dirt should be present. Sanding or reaming may be necessary to ensure clean bare metal.
2 Heat the WHOLE PART, this ensures the best results. The magewell is a giant heat sink and must stay in the 600F range or your work area will not be able to get hot enough. (the opposite applies to the buffer thread area and it will heat up on its own)
3 When your repair area is at the target temp you are ready. (infrared thermometer helps) Pull the heat away and semi-quickly jab the rod at the wall of the hole or repair area do not heat the rod itself. if your rod leaves shiny streaks in this semi-quick jabbing motion you are ready, apply heat for 3 more seconds and then drag the rod through the repair area to deposit filler (moving slower this time)
4 Hole technique: For small holes up to 3/16 (1/4 if you're skilled) With the hole facing up fill the edges until it just fills the middle. It will sink down leaving a depression in the middle leaving a deposit on the bottom sticking below the hole. As it cools it will start to glaze over, this is good, when you see this count to 10 and then re-apply heat to the TOP until you can just fill the top of the hole without re-liquefying the deposit on the back side. Fill it flush in this manner and let cool.
5 File/sand or machine the excess off the bottom side of the hole and re-drill.
80% builds out there may be able to use this technique to salvage their mistakes. Alumaweld claims to be stronger than the parent metal and I THINK it's a good idea depending on the nature of damage but you do so at your own risk.
Here's the steps:
1 Clean up the whole area really good, no oil or dirt should be present. Sanding or reaming may be necessary to ensure clean bare metal.
2 Heat the WHOLE PART, this ensures the best results. The magewell is a giant heat sink and must stay in the 600F range or your work area will not be able to get hot enough. (the opposite applies to the buffer thread area and it will heat up on its own)
3 When your repair area is at the target temp you are ready. (infrared thermometer helps) Pull the heat away and semi-quickly jab the rod at the wall of the hole or repair area do not heat the rod itself. if your rod leaves shiny streaks in this semi-quick jabbing motion you are ready, apply heat for 3 more seconds and then drag the rod through the repair area to deposit filler (moving slower this time)
4 Hole technique: For small holes up to 3/16 (1/4 if you're skilled) With the hole facing up fill the edges until it just fills the middle. It will sink down leaving a depression in the middle leaving a deposit on the bottom sticking below the hole. As it cools it will start to glaze over, this is good, when you see this count to 10 and then re-apply heat to the TOP until you can just fill the top of the hole without re-liquefying the deposit on the back side. Fill it flush in this manner and let cool.
5 File/sand or machine the excess off the bottom side of the hole and re-drill.
80% builds out there may be able to use this technique to salvage their mistakes. Alumaweld claims to be stronger than the parent metal and I THINK it's a good idea depending on the nature of damage but you do so at your own risk.
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