I was looking at some brakes to replace my "flash hider" that come on an upper. The price range is nuts. From $15 for some cheapo from eBay all the way to close to $200 for some high end ones.
OK, so sure the cheap ones look ... cheap. A piece of steel with holes drilled in it with a hand drill, and the expensive ones look like some master machinist lovingly milled it with some expensive mill. BUT in the end ... aren't they just blocks of steel with holes in them?
Even some cheap ones have "chambers and slits", etc.
Do you guys think they really make a difference for ... range shooting from semi autos? I think for a bolt gun, they are useless because by the time you work the bolt, the gun has settled. For a semi-auto well, typically you are looking for your sight picture to return so you can quickly tap some target a second time in some rifle run-and-gun game. And for full auto ... well, who cares really unless you have some $20,000 autosear in which case you'd probably buy the $200 comp anyway.
So, for the average range shooter who might dabble in multi-gun ... does it really make any difference whether you screw on some masterpiece of milling or a chunk of steel with holes in the top?
I can see that DESIGN might make much more of a difference than "quality" of manufacture. But for range purposes does some multi-chambered masterpiece really WORK better than a cylinder with holes on the side and top to help mitigate muzzle rise?
Also ... I'm guessing for most medium caliber (.223/7.62) rifles, RECOIL is not an issue, but MUZZLE RISE might be.
Discuss...
OK, so sure the cheap ones look ... cheap. A piece of steel with holes drilled in it with a hand drill, and the expensive ones look like some master machinist lovingly milled it with some expensive mill. BUT in the end ... aren't they just blocks of steel with holes in them?
Even some cheap ones have "chambers and slits", etc.
Do you guys think they really make a difference for ... range shooting from semi autos? I think for a bolt gun, they are useless because by the time you work the bolt, the gun has settled. For a semi-auto well, typically you are looking for your sight picture to return so you can quickly tap some target a second time in some rifle run-and-gun game. And for full auto ... well, who cares really unless you have some $20,000 autosear in which case you'd probably buy the $200 comp anyway.
So, for the average range shooter who might dabble in multi-gun ... does it really make any difference whether you screw on some masterpiece of milling or a chunk of steel with holes in the top?
I can see that DESIGN might make much more of a difference than "quality" of manufacture. But for range purposes does some multi-chambered masterpiece really WORK better than a cylinder with holes on the side and top to help mitigate muzzle rise?
Also ... I'm guessing for most medium caliber (.223/7.62) rifles, RECOIL is not an issue, but MUZZLE RISE might be.
Discuss...
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