FAL barrel timing

[thefurball]

I need to remove some metal to get the barrel to line up at the 1100 position so I can gorilla-grip it to the 1200 position.

I know I should remove it from the barrel shoulder, but would it work to remove it from the front of the receiver?

It should be no more than 1.5mm total.

The flat of the front of the receiver is much easier to get at to remove metal.

Any thoughts?

[thedrickel]

My thoughts . . . F w/ the cheapest part. In this case, the bbl.

[Max-the-Silent]

I need to remove some metal to get the barrel to line up at the 1100 position so I can gorilla-grip it to the 1200 position.

I know I should remove it from the barrel shoulder, but would it work to remove it from the front of the receiver?

It should be no more than 1.5mm total.

The flat of the front of the receiver is much easier to get at to remove metal.

Any thoughts?

Yes it's easier.

No, you shouldn't do it.

It's not just a case of modifying the least expensive part - if you ever rebarrel it you'll have a hell of a time indexing the barrel - it will be a matter of modifying the barrel and the receiver at that point.

Stick to the true method - take material off the barrel shoulder.

[Sicarius]

Take material off the barrel. The fal receiver is at the limits of a 308. It wasn't designed for the round to begin with. I wouldn't take any material off the receiver at all not to mention if you use a different barrel later on... Use this guy's method of a disk sander with the abrasive side on towards the barrel. http://www.sixgunsworld.com/wecsog/fal/carbine/ It is under assemble upper. Good luck with your build.
Kevin

[thefurball]

Thanks for the input. The barrel it is then.

[ar15barrels]

If you need to set the barrel back to attain proper indexing, the only reliable way to do it accurately is on the lathe.
Make sure you don't over-shoot either.
The threads may clock more than from 11:00 to 12:00 when you get it tight.
Tighten it together real good before making your angle measurements.
Then use your thread pitch dimension to figure out how much to set back.
Take about 80% of what the math tells you, then keep trying the parts and cutting a little more until you finally get perfect fit.

[4 Brigada]

Dumb question here, where is it contacting when it bottoms out? I have seen barrels bottom out on the breech before they time at the 12 o'clock, check that , and if you are going to work the barrel be careful on the material you remove from the barrel or you will be looking for L1A timing washers.

[Pryde]

Dumb question here, where is it contacting when it bottoms out? I have seen barrels bottom out on the breech before they time at the 12 o'clock, check that , and if you are going to work the barrel be careful on the material you remove from the barrel or you will be looking for L1A timing washers.

Very good point.
Make sure that the barrel hasn't already bottomed out inside the receiver.

What brand is your receiver?

[thefurball]

What brand is your receiver?

Enterprise Arms. I bought a pair of them way back when.

The first went together nicely with the exception of the locking shoulder hole being about .002 undersized.