First AR-15 on a Budget, Help Please!

[Johnny.23]

Hi everyone,

I've been itching to pick up a AR-15 for quite sometime, I've handled full auto M16's A1 and A2's with the Army, but its been about 15+ years, and I want to relearn that platform and enjoy it at the range.

What would be a good first AR? My budget is $500- $750 at the most, or should I buy a stripped lower and gradually build one? I'm sort of new to the rifle market, so what AR is similar to the M16? Can I get a decent one with my budget? Suggestions are welcome!

Thanks!

[NIKSD]

M&P15 SPORT™ II Compliant In CA*

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product4_750001_750051_846051_-1_757785_757784_757784_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y

Assembling one is an option, but you have to know what exactly you want. Way to many options on the market. Get the SW MP and dross few lowers on the same DROS. Later, when you know what you want, you will know what to do with the lowers.

[elSquid]

At that price range, the S&W Sport II.

https://www.slickguns.com/search/apachesolr_search/022188868128

-- Michael

[Bubba_Leon]

I'd say get a PSA AR kit, and a stripped lower of your choice

http://palmettostatearmory.com/ar-15-05/rifle-kits.html

Building one will help re-familiarize yourself with the platform.

[LowThudd]

If you want an A2 type, you'd be best assembling your own, imo. Not a lot of budget options for an off the shelf A2. All you will need besides this rifle kit is a stripped lower and a GI carry handle. http://www.sportsmansguide.com/produ...-kit?a=1784639

Although, that particular kit has a 1 in 9 twist barrel, which will limit how well heavy bullets stabilize, if you plan on shooting far enough to need that.

[geoint]

spend the extra few bucks and get a BCM upper on a boring lower you buy locally and on the cheap. You will love the quality of the upper you get from BCM at that price point. It's almost ridiculous

[sarabellum]

$499 + shipping + $70:

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=F1ANM4OPTIC&utm_source=AIM+Surplus+Main+List&utm_campaign=9d15c28c3e-06242016&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_6870497a6a-9d15c28c3e-18657465

[pjs4x]

I'm in the same situation as far as getting my first AR. I've been thinking about getting an M&P sport 2 but was wondering how it compares to the Ruger AR 556. In addition, I was thinking about getting a lower or 2 but don't know which one to buy as i'm very new to ARs.

[LowThudd]

Here is a better deal on a 1 in 7 twist barrel. https://www.model1sales.com/index.cf...ategory_id=185

[LowThudd]

I'm in the same situation as far as getting my first AR. I've been thinking about getting an M&P sport 2 but was wondering how it compares to the Ruger AR 556. In addition, I was thinking about getting a lower or 2 but don't know which one to buy as i'm very new to ARs.

Anderson lowers are cheap and GTG.

[Johnny.23]

Thanks for the info! Im still coming to terms with "the bullet button" and 10 round mags. The M&P sport 2 seems nice, for the money you seem to get a lot. Is that rifle upgradable if you want different hand guards and furniture? For stripped lowers, are they all the same? I see them range from $70-$350 at my local gun store, do you get more functionality wise? Does the lower determine whether the ARs upper chambers in 5.56 or 2.23? Thanks!

[LowThudd]

Thanks for the info! Im still coming to terms with "the bullet button" and 10 round mags. The M&P sport 2 seems nice, for the money you seem to get a lot. Is that rifle upgraded with different hand guards and furniture? For stripped lowers, are they all the same? I see them range from $70-$350 at my local gun store, do you get more functionality wise? Does the lower determine whether the ARs upper chambers in 5.56 or 2.23? Thanks!

The M&P uses standard carbine guards. Yes, you can upgrade the guards and stock, or even throw on a float tube/rail.
No, the lower does not determine what caliber it can be chambered in. But, might as well get one that says "Multi" for the caliber. Any mill spec aluminum lower will work fine.

[Johnny.23]

The M&P uses standard carbine guards. Yes, you can upgrade the guards and stock, or even throw on a float tube/rail.
No, the lower does not determine what caliber it can be chambered in. But, might as well get one that says "Multi" for the caliber. Any mill spec aluminum lower will work fine.

Thanks! Might pick up the M&P sport 2 and a lower. So any lower that says "multi" will suit my needs if I want to build a AR in the future? Might pick up 1 or 2 lowers around the $100 range. Any recommendations for brands?

Thanks again!

[LowThudd]

Thanks! Might pick up the M&P sport 2 and a lower. So any lower that says "multi" will suit my needs if I want to build a AR in the future? Might pick up 1 or 2 lowers around the $100 range. Any recommendations for brands?

Thanks again!

Even if it says 5.56/.223 it will work. People like the multi lowers because there are many different calibers to choose from. There is also the possibility of them needing to be registered next year as assault weapons, and having a "Multi" lower can take some of the hassle out of that.

Like I said before, Andersons are cheap, and they are good to go. I would buy as many as you like now, with the way legislation is going.

[CWDraco]

All lowers are the same if its an AR15 lower. If its not the same it will have another designation, like AR45, AR9, AR57.

That is not saying there isnt quality differences or some with extra stuff, just that all will work to build an AR15.

"Multi-cal" is just a way to not trigger State or Federal rules surrounding home built firearms and "zip gun laws". For the most part it means nothing. Your lower can say 5.56, .223, Multi-cal or whatever... they will all build the same way as long as its a Mil-spec lower.... and if its an AR15 lower...its mil-spec.

S&W builds mil-spec Rifles. All mil-spec rifles can be configured any way you want...thats the draw to them. If a part is not mil-spec it will say it when you buy it...like some parts are strictly for gas piston guns and will not fit mil-spec rifles.

In your budget for the best quality without researching I'd go with the S&W. Just make sure you register it with S&W after you buy it.