Rear A2 aperture all the way to left for zero?

[isplice]

In the one picture the order should be A2/DCH/NM. The DCH one is shorter, with the finer threads than the A2.

[russ69]

Could it be the barrel? You said it was cut to 14.7 + pinned, there's a small chance that the muzzle is not square.

First make sure that the flash hider/muzzle brake is not getting bullet strikes. Once that is confirmed, a simple bore sight at 100 yards will show if you can get on center. If not your front sight is canted and you'll need to fix it (it's not acceptable to use up all the windage at 100 yards.

[PyroFox79]

Honestly sometimes it happens with barrels. I've seen brand new barrels that were unable to be zeroed. That could be the case.

[FeuerFrei]

Fix the canted sight only if you run out of windage adjustment. IMO.
This is more common than most think.

Most of us never use the windage adjustment knobs and we use "Kentucky" style.
Competitors see things differently tho.

Either pay to have the barrel re-populated or buy another barrel or buy a strap on A2 fs that mounts with cap screws and knock the old one off yourself.

*A2 fs can be a beotch to remove for the inexperienced. Tapered pins go only one way. Right?
They may be straight pins also (FN may be tapered). Either can be a pain.
Just don't worry about it if there's nothing to worry about yet.
Post back after you papered it.

I just did a simple 100yard zero. It was just zeroed to hit the 100yard steel gong. Nothing precise. I Forgot my binos and spotting scope so I couldn't sight in properly.

Anyhow, in order for my AR15 to hit steel at 100yards, I needed to have the rear aperture set almost all the way to the left.

So I'm hitting steel but is there any way to fix this issue? What would make it that way. The front sight base looks straight and not canted.
I'm holding the rifle properly with good cheek weld.

FYI, I own several other AR's and AR pistols and they ALL have iron sights (LMT,RRA) and Ive always got it zeroed and usually the rear aperture lines are almost perfectly lined up.



FYI, the upper receiver is a surplus FN A2 carry handle receiver, with an oem FN barrel chopped to 14.7 with a pinned A2. And the standard M4 FSB.
Next week Imma go back to do a precise zero at 50yards.

What gives?

[CWDraco]

In the one picture the order should be A2/DCH/NM. The DCH one is shorter, with the finer threads than the A2.

Yeah I will go with you on that.

I was thinking the DCH had more adjustment then the NM, so the DCH would be longer with the same threading...

My understanding was NM was the same as A2, but finer adjustments. and the DCH is longer also.

[isplice]

The DCH one is shorter so it doesn't bottom out on the upper receiver rails. The A2 upper has plenty of room. Also, when using the Revised Improved Battlesight Zero, the number of clicks must be doubled for the DCH due to the finer threads.

[CWDraco]

The DCH one is shorter so it doesn't bottom out on the upper receiver rails. The A2 upper has plenty of room. Also, when using the Revised Improved Battlesight Zero, the number of clicks must be doubled for the DCH due to the finer threads.

thats right I forgot about the IBZ method, makes sense now.

[SVT-40]

Do you have another carrying handle??

You may want to just try zeroing it with another carrying handle, just to confirm it's not a issue with the handle you currently are using.

[supermario]

Its an A2 upper, the carry handle is integrated. My gunsmith told me he can fix it. So just waiting for time to go get it done.

Do you have another carrying handle??

You may want to just try zeroing it with another carrying handle, just to confirm it's not a issue with the handle you currently are using.