First AR-10 build, looking for pointers

[Chapped Hide]

Thanks guys, makes sense. Had to take a couple pulls though, SSA-E is a lot like a 1911 trigger with a smooth take up and clean break. Think I'm going to The Gun Range tomorrow to see if I can dial in the gas before I get out to sight it in.

[liber]

I saw the .800 on the specs, but it wasn't clear if they were referring to the muzzle diameter, or the length of the threads. No big deal, it's a part that can easily be removed later, if it looks too ugly I'll just have it machined. For the time being I think it looks fine, especially since the barrel shoulder and the muzzle brake don't meet anyways, with a small gap and a jam nut in between the two. I ordered both a .925 and a .875 jam nut, so I can try both and see which one looks better.

It actually doesn't look as bad as I thought it would. I'd leave it the way it is.

[Sabian722]

Thanks guys, makes sense. Had to take a couple pulls though, SSA-E is a lot like a 1911 trigger with a smooth take up and clean break. Think I'm going to The Gun Range tomorrow to see if I can dial in the gas before I get out to sight it in.

I installed a geissele HS NM Rifle trigger, second stage set at around .3 pounds... unbelievable

[CandG]

I installed a geissele HS NM Rifle trigger, second stage set at around .3 pounds... unbelievable

I have a funny feeling it won't take long before I upgrade my trigger. My Winchester 70 has an amazing trigger, so I've definitely grown an appreciation for them. The Win 70 trigger doesn't really even physically move - you just apply pressure to this stationary trigger until it fires. Really cool. I'd love an AR trigger that felt like that, though I'm not sure they make such a thing. The 2 stage Geisselle's sound like the next best thing though.

[Sabian722]

I have a funny feeling it won't take long before I upgrade my trigger. My Winchester 70 has an amazing trigger, so I've definitely grown an appreciation for them. The Win 70 trigger doesn't really even physically move - you just apply pressure to this stationary trigger until it fires. Really cool. I'd love an AR trigger that felt like that, though I'm not sure they make such a thing. The 2 stage Geisselle's sound like the next best thing though.

The NM is unreal. I have the ssa-e in all my other ARs, but the 308 with the NM is just dirty... think about the gun shooting, and it goes off

[Chapped Hide]

I installed a geissele HS NM Rifle trigger, second stage set at around .3 pounds... unbelievable

.3lbs, can't imagine. Is a break that light even predictable? Even at a 1.2lbs for the second stage on my Geissle is going to take some getting used to.

[Sabian722]

.3lbs, can't imagine. Is a break that light even predictable? Even at a 1.2lbs for the second stage on my Geissle is going to take some getting used to.

I just get the rifle on target and let it surprise me every time. It's the tiniest of squeezes, so in a way, it is. It's so sweet haha

[varanidguy]

FWIW I have always preferred clamp-on style gas blocks over set screws. They just seem more secure.

Here is a write-up on the sturdiness of the Vltor clamp-on. I would imagine any gas block that is quality made would be just as secure.

http://www.militarymorons.com/weapons/ar.optics2.html#torque

[CandG]

FWIW I have always preferred clamp-on style gas blocks over set screws. They just seem more secure.

Here is a write-up on the sturdiness of the Vltor clamp-on. I would imagine any gas block that is quality made would be just as secure.

http://www.militarymorons.com/weapon...s2.html#torque

That's the odd thing about the JP gas block - it seems to be a combination of both. It has 8 bolts that clamp it on, but then they suggest using a set screw in addition to that. Seems excessive. I'm guessing the bolts are enough.

[varanidguy]

That's the odd thing about the JP gas block - it seems to be a combination of both. It has 8 bolts that clamp it on, but then they suggest using a set screw in addition to that. Seems excessive. I'm guessing the bolts are enough.

Try installing it all the way, as if you are completing your build. If you can't get it to move by twisting it out of place with considerable force, you may not need the set screws.

Then again, there may be a reason why the manufacturer says to use them. You can get jigs for a decent price and NSZ (I think that's the name) has a decent tutorial on dimpling a barrel on YouTube.

If not, you could always get a gun smith to do it for you.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Chapped Hide]

I wouldn't worry about the set screw either, especially if I had to dimple the barrel to do it. The directions for my gas block suggested Loctite 609 between the barrel and block but I'm hoping I don't even have to do that.

[CandG]

It won't even hardly move when I place the gas block on the barrel without any bolts, much less 8 bolts. Very tight tolerance. I think I'll just loctite the bolts themselves and call it a day. I'm not a big fan of drilling a $350 piece of stainless steel if I can avoid it

[CandG]

Received my jam nuts today, and the .875 size is definitely the right answer, so I'm glad I ordered both. I think it looks pretty good, going to leave it the way it is. Woohoo, I finally assembled something!

[Chapped Hide]

I like it and the jam nut makes it so easy to set up.

[CandG]

Finally got my upper and handguard today, the lower is still in jail. They look nice, the fit and finish isn't perfect but it'll do.

My JP gas block is WAY too big to fit inside my handguard. Sure would've been nice to be able to test the fit before the return window was closed, but I digress. I guess I'll just stick it in a drawer for another build in the future - time to go find a new one.

Everything else is going together pretty well... it's nice to finally be making some progress.