Tikka T3/scope ejecting brass problem

[Palmaris]

Hello guys.
Here is update as I promised. I got High rings, which are 0.200" higher and problem is solved. Here is video I made in slow mo



Any comment will be highly appreciated.

Thanks a lot guys

[elx144]

Hello guys.
Here is update as I promised. I got High rings, which are 0.200" higher and problem is solved. Here is video I made in slow mo



Any comment will be highly appreciated.

Thanks a lot guys

I see you moved the scope forward farther, that might have helped too. I shoot a left handed Tikka, but my scope has a distance knob on the left side. It hasn't gotten in the way, but I mounted my scope farther forward than you did originally.

[Shoot-it]

All my scopes get's mounted all the way back that's just how I shoot.I have that model in the 223 with a standard scope.I was told tikka no longer makes them in the wood model ?

[JMP]

I see you moved the scope forward farther, that might have helped too.

Yes, I think this was the root of the issue. On the video with the correction, we can now see the eye relief better, which we couldn't see before. The video that is zoomed out more suggests (to me) that the original mounting position seems like it would be to far back and awkward, but everyone shoots a bit differently.

[CRTguns]

the sound on this vid is epic. Sounds like a 90mm shell casing falling out of an artillery piece.

[Donnovin]

You can also have. ~.10" milled off the lower edge of your ejection port to provide more space for ejection. I had a Spuhr mount on a T3, and this solution solved the ejection issues. It also opened the port up a bit which makes it easier to get a finger in there.

JD

[Coyotegunner]

I have a few Tikkas,and use scopes with hunter/small knobs on them.I like the ones with the bullet drop type reticles in them.
Elevating the scope higher to fix the issue.It obviously raises the centerline higher to the bore.You may need a cheek riser for proper cheek weld.
I use them for hunting and they are all very accurate.I reload for them.They make for accurate rifles from the bench as well for paper punching.
I use the factory rings on a couple.I upgrade all the screws and use anti-seize on them.The factory screw heads are soft.
I like the Talley's also and DNZ.I have to remember,I think one has the Warne bases.
Great rifle OP.Mine have served me well

[Palmaris]

You can also have. ~.10" milled off the lower edge of your ejection port to provide more space for ejection. I had a Spuhr mount on a T3, and this solution solved the ejection issues. It also opened the port up a bit which makes it easier to get a finger in there.

JD

This is unexpected proposal-to machine lower edge of ejecting port. Thanks a lot, but I don't think it will work for me. Honestly, I can not even imaging to modify ejection port and voiding warranty.

[Palmaris]

I have a few Tikkas,and use scopes with hunter/small knobs on them.I like the ones with the bullet drop type reticles in them.
Elevating the scope higher to fix the issue.It obviously raises the centerline higher to the bore.You may need a cheek riser for proper cheek weld.
I use them for hunting and they are all very accurate.I reload for them.They make for accurate rifles from the bench as well for paper punching.
I use the factory rings on a couple.I upgrade all the screws and use anti-seize on them.The factory screw heads are soft.
I like the Talley's also and DNZ.I have to remember,I think one has the Warne bases.
Great rifle OP.Mine have served me well

I calculated distance between bore axis and scope axis-it is 1.89 right now. Used different ballistic calculators-seems like no big of deal. As far as cheek rest-I am considering to get something now. Today I am planning to go on the range and will see how it is feeling.
As far as factory rings-they are 1" and my scope is 30mm. I modified one of the ring and will make mount for level.
I made my own bore guide for cleaning rod.

[Jarhead]

I was saving for a Tikka but then saw a AICS Rem. 700 in .308 and she sweet talked me into buying her, my first Chassis ........... Plan is to have her re barreled in 6.5 Creedmore

[Jarhead]

Hello guys.
I just got my Tikka T3 Hunter, mounted scope on her and facing problem with ejecting brass. It is nor rifle, it is combo between rifle and scope. When I open bolt spent shell is coming out, hitting windage adjustment knob and going back to ejection port. It does eject OK if I open bolt very slow, but still hitting knob and falling aside. Here is info: Tikka T3 Hunter, scope SWFA SS 12X42, rings Talley LWA Low.
Does anybody has fix for this? One of the fix to put High rings and I already order them. But any other ideas?
BTW, I want to say very good things about Talley rings. Ones I have installed them on rifle and very first shot on 50 yards was horizontally perfect and about 1.5 inch lower. Never in my experience saw this kind of set up right after installation POI be that close to bulls eye.

Thanks a lot in advance

Loosen the rings, lay in prone position, get your cheek hold with eyes closed, open eyes, open eyes if you see shadow have a second person move the scope fwd until shadow disappears.............level scope, tighten ring screws, double check, loosen screws one at a time and add locktite..........bore sight again.

I'm guessing your having to move your head back before every shot, if not disregard.

[ar15barrels]

I calculated distance between bore axis and scope axis-it is 1.89 right now.

Don't calculate it.
MEASURE it.
For the most accurate measurement, you want to be measuring right at your eye.
Take a piece of cardboard and make a pinhole in it.
Trim the cardboard until you can set the cardboard on your stock JUST in front of your eyelashes.
Once you get that figured out, put a cleaning rod through the barrel and mark the bore axis location on the cardboard.
Measure the distance from the center of the bore axis to the center of your sightline.
THAT will be the most accurate sight height to use in ballistic calculators.

Sight height won't matter at 100yds and beyond, but it's very important to have it right for shortrange.
You can PROVE the sight height is correct by testing the ballistic calculator output at 10yds.

My sight height at my rear ring measures just under 2", but I have to use 2.5" to get proper 10yd dope.
The difference in theis heights is because the sight line runs at an ANGLE to the bore axis.
Your EYE is the origin of the sightline.

[MongooseV8]

I was saving for a Tikka but then saw a AICS Rem. 700 in .308 and she sweet talked me into buying her, my first Chassis ........... Plan is to have her re barreled in 6.5 Creedmore

Cool starry bra.

[Palmaris]

Don't calculate it.
MEASURE it.
For the most accurate measurement, you want to be measuring right at your eye.
Take a piece of cardboard and make a pinhole in it.
Trim the cardboard until you can set the cardboard on your stock JUST in front of your eyelashes.
Once you get that figured out, put a cleaning rod through the barrel and mark the bore axis location on the cardboard.
Measure the distance from the center of the bore axis to the center of your sightline.
THAT will be the most accurate sight height to use in ballistic calculators.

Sight height won't matter at 100yds and beyond, but it's very important to have it right for shortrange.
You can PROVE the sight height is correct by testing the ballistic calculator output at 10yds.

My sight height at my rear ring measures just under 2", but I have to use 2.5" to get proper 10yd dope.
The difference in theis heights is because the sight line runs at an ANGLE to the bore axis.
Your EYE is the origin of the sightline.

Thanks a lot Randal.
Will try to measure tonight. Any way, ordered cheek raiser-way too low now.

[Jarhead]

Cool starry bra.

I'm a sucker for a sweet talking .308, she said take me to bed or lose me forever