Cheap plastic stock replacement advice

[hardlyworking]

Good morning folks!

Many of the big name makers have come out with quite inexpensive, yet decent shooting (minute of deer) rifles. They generally are bolted into completely soul-less black plastic stocks.

This is a great opportunity for stock makers like Boyd's et al to pick up a lot of business.

BUT for the novice, somebody who might be tempted by one of these low-price guns, what kind of replacement stock should one get?

For instance, I like the look of some of the thumbhole varminter stocks out there, but would a standard "sporter" be better?

Can those of you who know, describe WHY various stocks have the features they do, and what shooting disciplines are assisted by those choices?

[Wrangler John]

That's easy, buy an expensive plastic stock.

In the case of the Remington 783 the magazine attaches to the stock via a plastic tab not part of the aluminum bedding "pillars". The magazine does not attach to the bottom metal as there is none. Boyds' thumbhole varminter stock uses a plastic front bedding block that includes a tab to retain the magazine. This tab requires a bit of work to get the magazine to detach easily. The entire plastic bedding system does not allow setting the action retention screws to factory torque specification as without a metal insert the plastic compresses. How much of a problem this is will have to remain a mystery until I can find time for a range test. Because there are very few Remington 783's out there the market hasn't responded.

The other cheap plastic stocks may be better than the Remington, such as the Ruger American, but one step at a time.

[jmf_tracy]

IMO, the best cheapest stock would be a bell & Carlson medalist. It has an aluminum bedding block. they are about $260 @ stockys.

[TMB 1]

I like the Boyds Classic & Prairie Hunter for bolt action. I like the feel of thumb hole stocks, but have never shot with one on a bolt action, seems it would slow you down working the bolt to me.

[hardlyworking]

I hadn't thought of the thumb hole and actually working a bolt. Kind of a forehead slap "oh yah"...

[RobG]

One reason these so called "bargain" rifles are priced where they are is because of the crappy stocks they use. Most are probably satisfied with them so they continue to use them.

If you are looking for something better, bang for buck it is hard to beat the Bell & Carlson models with bedding blocks. I have used a few and they are a solid upgrade. No bedding needed, just bolt and go. Although I generally skim bed them for best contact.

I am assuming the Boyds you referenced are wood. Those really need to be pillar bedded for best results. Not overly difficult to DIY if you know how. But, it is an added cost to have done by a 'smith if you do not. Plus the ones I have researched (mostly for rimfires) state that they need to have final fitting. Again, not overly difficult, just more to do than the bolt and go BC stocks.

Either one is going to be a huge upgrade over the junk plastic stocks. Good luck.

[LynnJr]

I buy a stock based on its features.
If the intended use is hunting at high altitudes I would get the lightest weight stock I could afford.
If the intended use was normal hunting below 2000 feet of elevation the stocks weight would be less of a concern.
If I was shooting with iron sights I would opt for a lower cheekpiece and if I was using a scope I would want it high enough to avoid lifting my head to gety a clear crisp view through the scope.
If I want a varmint hunting stock that doesn't get carried into the field and is used from a portable bench I would get a thumbhole or straighter grip for ease on my wrist and a high straight cheekpiece instead of aonte carlo cheekpiece or rollover cheekpiece. I would also get a wider flatter forend for better stability and less torquing in the bags or rest and weight would be an issue.
On a unlimited stock used in the heavygun class of 600 or 1000 yard shooting I would get a very stiff stock with a longer than usual forend to accommodate the 30-34 inch barrels common to the discipline. It would be very thick through the action area to accept a 2 inch diameter action 12 inches long and a barrel block. The forend would be at a minimum 5 inches wide and the buttstock would be 2.25 wide at the minimum.
You also competition stocks with weight limits and stock restrictions on how they can be made.

[hardlyworking]

I buy a stock based on its features.
If the intended use is hunting at high altitudes I would get the lightest weight stock I could afford.
If the intended use was normal hunting below 2000 feet of elevation the stocks weight would be less of a concern.
If I was shooting with iron sights I would opt for a lower cheekpiece and if I was using a scope I would want it high enough to avoid lifting my head to gety a clear crisp view through the scope.
If I want a varmint hunting stock that doesn't get carried into the field and is used from a portable bench I would get a thumbhole or straighter grip for ease on my wrist and a high straight cheekpiece instead of aonte carlo cheekpiece or rollover cheekpiece. I would also get a wider flatter forend for better stability and less torquing in the bags or rest and weight would be an issue.
On a unlimited stock used in the heavygun class of 600 or 1000 yard shooting I would get a very stiff stock with a longer than usual forend to accommodate the 30-34 inch barrels common to the discipline. It would be very thick through the action area to accept a 2 inch diameter action 12 inches long and a barrel block. The forend would be at a minimum 5 inches wide and the buttstock would be 2.25 wide at the minimum.
You also competition stocks with weight limits and stock restrictions on how they can be made.

Nice write up!

Ok, so when one is looking at a "varminter" stock - one might assume a similar "varmint" contour barrel, which is generally going to be of the thick/heavy variety. Maybe not as thick as a pure "benchrest" gun, but could be.

And if one wanted a "hunting" stock, you're looking for light weight and presumably speed of mounting.

[NorCalFocus]

I have a Boyds Thumbhole on my 700. It has never been a issue for me working the bolt.



I did do a DIY bedding job on it as well. Didn't improve or disimprove groups, but I know every time I take the stock and action apart, they back together in the same spot.

[RobG]

Nice write up!

Ok, so when one is looking at a "varminter" stock - one might assume a similar "varmint" contour barrel, which is generally going to be of the thick/heavy variety. Maybe not as thick as a pure "benchrest" gun, but could be.

And if one wanted a "hunting" stock, you're looking for light weight and presumably speed of mounting.

A "varminter" style stock is one that is likely to be used off some kind of rest, not really carried around. Probably a flatter bottom to sit better in bags, wider barrel channel likely. A "hunting" stock will be more of a "do it all." Probably a narrower barrel channel, slimmer fore end, better to shoot off hand, etc.

When you look at the different styles you can see the reasons why they are made the way they are. You need to decide what kind of shooting you plan to do and choose accordingly.