Help with Savage 11 308 barrel

[bambam8d1]

Hey guys. Hopefully one of the gurus can help me out here. I have a savage 11 in 308. Currently a sporter barrel but I am looking to order a bull barrel for it. Currently have a choate stock, some AI mags and cdi bottom metal on order. Now for the question. I am currently deployed and so I can't check the specs on my rifle. Does anyone know the shank size I would need to order a new heavy barrel? Or can help out with a link to one that will fit. I am trying to order all my goodies so it will all be ready when I get back to the states. As of right now I am thinking a mcgowen or maybe shilen. Although on the lower priced end I have read mixed reviews about ER shaw barrels, anyone have experience with them? Any recommendations welcomed as well. Length does not matter so much as I am planning to have it cut down to 18" and threaded.

[phish]

small shank barrel size

Jim at Northland Shooter's Supply sells Shilen and Criterion barrels, might have what you want in stock.

[MongooseV8]

small shank barrel size

Jim at Northland Shooter's Supply sells Shilen and Criterion barrels, might have what you want in stock.

Spot on, the prefit Criterion barrels Jim sells are a great value for the money, I have more than a few.

Also check out McGowen Barrel Outlet for some prefit McGowen barrels, also a great choice, I have more than a few.

Other than that you will have to order, as not many places have an on hand stock ready to ship out. Wait times are several months on average. I have a barrel on order from McGowen since Febuary that I am still waiting for.

[CriterionBarrels]

Hey guys. Hopefully one of the gurus can help me out here. I have a savage 11 in 308. Currently a sporter barrel but I am looking to order a bull barrel for it. Currently have a choate stock, some AI mags and cdi bottom metal on order. Now for the question. I am currently deployed and so I can't check the specs on my rifle. Does anyone know the shank size I would need to order a new heavy barrel? Or can help out with a link to one that will fit. I am trying to order all my goodies so it will all be ready when I get back to the states. As of right now I am thinking a mcgowen or maybe shilen. Although on the lower priced end I have read mixed reviews about ER shaw barrels, anyone have experience with them? Any recommendations welcomed as well. Length does not matter so much as I am planning to have it cut down to 18" and threaded.

+1 on the suggestion for giving Jim of NSS a call. You're also welcome to shoot me an email at contact@criterionbarrels.com. I would be more than happy to help answer your question or find someone who can.

-Josh

[MongooseV8]

Hey thanks for making affordable great barrels. I have a bunch and plan on buying a bunch more.

[ar15barrels]

Help with Savage 11 308 barrel

Pre-fit schme-fit...
Put it together like a real rifle:

[Wrangler John]

The Criterion barrels I have on AR-15's have been good. I just ordered a Criterion from Jim Briggs at Northland Supply for a Remington 783 to experiment (some would say play) with. This will allow me to swap in a .25-06 Remington barrel with a slightly heavier contour. Briggs has many accuracy enhancements for Savage and Remington platforms.

Pac-Nor also makes prefits, but they take 7 months or so. I use them on both Savages and Remingtons with the barrel nut, superb accuracy and easy change out or cartridge conversions. Do it yourself in minutes.

Also you can order a Brux prefit from Sharp Shooter Supply: http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/ Also read the Tech Updates for information on the shank size. My Precision target Actions all require the large shank. I ordered a Savage varmint contour barrel in 6mm PPC in January, it has yet to arrive - everyone is swamped with orders.

I recommend you purchase the best quality barrel possible, barrel quality is the largest factor in determining accuracy.

It ain't rocket science, and anybody with a modicum of mechanical aptitude, a few tools and headspace gauges, can change a barrel. Here's how it goes:

After removing the original barrel, coat the barrel threads with anti-seize. I use Pure White Food Grade Anti-Seize w/PTFE from www.antiseize.com. Stuff prevents corrosion, metal to metal contact, galling and rust, great for dissimilar metals such as a SS barrel and CM receiver. Also work a THIN coat into the receiver threads.



Next, place the nut wrench over the barrel ahead of the threads, followed by screwing the nut on as far as it will go, then place the recoil lug over the barrel shank with the locator pin facing toward the action and turn the action on until it is about .25" from the recoil lug. Below I use another recoil lug to demonstrate the clearance.



Now we place the appropriate GO headspace gauge in the chamber.



Then carefully insert the bolt and continue tightening the receiver on to the action. At some point the headspace gauge will prevent any further tightening. Just snug things up by hand, do not torque the hardened gauge down in the chamber. Remove the gauge and snug the barrel nut down against the recoil lug and action face by hand. Now reinsert the gauge and close the bolt, continue adjusting the barrel and nut if necessary to remove any slop, the gauge should be snug. Tighten the nut by hand and remove the gauge. I do all this using only my big mitt, which is strong enough to crack coconuts. NOTE: You can strip the bolt head removing the extractor and ejector before setting headspace, or not, I have done it both ways with no difference in outcome.



Finally, torque the barrel nut down to between 30 and 40 ft lbs using a torque wrench. I use 40 ft pounds on these Precision Target Actions, which works well. Below, for clarity I don't show how I retain the receiver using my right hand, to ensure the receiver doesn't turn. Some may use an action wrench, or a strap wrench, but this way I can feel any movement.



Finally, test the headspace by inserting the NO GO gauge. The bolt should just drop a bit and then stop as shown below. If anything isn't exactly correct, or the bolt closes on the NO GO gauge, loosen the nut and start over. Take a bit of time and reap the rewards.



Always read the headspace gauges, three times if necessary, as they may trick your eye. Always use a set of GO and NO GO gauges from the same manufacturer as tolerances between different manufacturers can stack and give a false headspace. Here are gauges for the .223 Remington and .204 Ruger. Green is GO, red is NO GO.



This particular lash-up shot rather well. 10 Shots @ 100 yards, 1:9" twist Pac-Nor Polygonal Rifled barrel:



This routine works the same for Remington barrel nut conversions.

[Fjold]

Shilen, PacNor and Lothar-Walther also make prefit barrels for the Savage.

[norcalgunguy]

Tagged

[russ69]

Pre-fit schme-fit...

How timely, I'm thinking about a new barrel for my 6BR.

[ar15barrels]

How timely, I'm thinking about a new barrel for my 6BR.

I have done them that way for years.
I just finally remembered to take a picture...

[TomReloaded]

I have a savage and was thinking about putting a barrel on.

I was under the impression that "pre fit" was sort of a marketing word. Looking at the rifle and its setup, it seems like ANY barrel replacement would require some measuring and setup, correct?

Are barrels that arent "pre fit" so out that they require cutting and major fitting? I dont mind buying some tools, but id rather not go overboard for a barrel replacement.

[ar15barrels]

I have a savage and was thinking about putting a barrel on.

I was under the impression that "pre fit" was sort of a marketing word. Looking at the rifle and its setup, it seems like ANY barrel replacement would require some measuring and setup, correct?

Are barrels that arent "pre fit" so out that they require cutting and major fitting? I dont mind buying some tools, but id rather not go overboard for a barrel replacement.

A savage typically uses a barrel nut system that allows you to screw the barrel in without any machine tools and tighten the nut to lock the barrel at the correct headspace setting.
Most other rifles require the barrel to be machined properly to match the action.
There are a few barrel-nut type barrels being offered for remingtons now which will not require machining, but MOST "pre-fit" barrels will not fit without some final machining.

The two most common methods of "pre-fitting" non-barrel-nut barrels will be "short chambered" where the threads and tennon are all finished, but the chamber is left short so the gunsmith can final ream the chamber to proper headspace for the receiver/bolt.
The other way is "long chambered" where the chamber is cut deeper than needed and then the gunsmith will cut the barrel shoulder and tennon length to properly match the receiver/bolt.

I do all of these types of barrel installations in my shop.
The prices vary with the amount of work, but for comparison, I charge the following rates:
$40 "barrel nut" barrel swap (savage type)
$120 "pre-fit" barrel install (short or long chambered)
$200 Full barrel fitting job from a profiled barrel blank (cut threads, tennon, chamber and crown and install on receiver)

The tools to install a savage barrel will cost a lot more than $40 so if you don't plan to do a lot of swapping, it might be cheaper to pay someone who already has the tools.

[bambam8d1]

Awesome info gentlemen. Still looking and researching which would be best for me.