Question about my Remington 700

[jkgts1]

So here is my rifle. Remember 700 short action chambered in 308 win, super heavy barrel, rifle basic trigger, Evolution chassis.
[IMG][/IMG]

Anyway I noticed that every once and a while during dry fire practice (yes I use snap caps), the firing pin does not get reset. Not sure I'd that is the correct terminology. So, when I pull the trigger no click. Could never really find out why it does this, like I said it happens very seldom and always when dry firing. Any ideas? Rifle does get cleaned after range trips.

[thegiff]

Trigger might be rubbing or touching the trigger inlet, prevents trigger from catching the cocking piece. Or not enough sear engagement.

[E92335i]

How low is your trigger pull?

[LynnJr]

That problem can happen with any trigger if its not adjusted correctly.
The Rifle Basix trigger should have come with instructions on how to adjust it.You adjust it until it fires then back it off a certain turn distance if I remember correctly.
I will look for a instruction sheet.

[jkgts1]

How low is your trigger pull?

Not sure but I have had the trigger on for 6 years, but liked how it came so never adjusted anything. It's not super low, maybe 3.5-4 lbs. I think it still has lock tight on the adjustment screws. I'll play with it some more to see if I notice anything.

[E92335i]

Since you have the Rifle Basix trigger, Check the sear adjustment screw.

[LynnJr]

The adjustment instructions are on the Rifle Basix website.

[jkgts1]

Cool Thx I'll take a look.

[LynnJr]

When you adjust it and you think it is were you want it cycle the bolt as fast as you can a dozen or so times.
If your right on the edge it will not stay cocked.
Another trick before you make your adjustments is to pull the trigger before when it is dropped and push the trigger forward as well.Now cycle it once and see if it will stay cocked.

When Clay first built those triggers they were over heat treated and if you popped a primer you would sometimes break the top lever as it was hard as glass.The popped primer would push on the firing pin hard enough to drive the cocking piece into the sear and snap the lever.

If your trigger pins are worn or scratched up get some 1/8 drill rod 0.125 and grind some points on it to help getting it started into the action.I bought 20 feet of stainless rod for $5 and literally have a jar full of trigger pins.

If its dirty run some Rosignol lighter fluid through it like your putting out a fire.Squirt it real good and let it all drip off over a garbage can.You can get dust built up in them and have all kinds of fun.

The only other common error is when your swapping one out the top lever isn't contained like it is on a Jewell.You need short trigger pins to keep the top from opening up on you.It is common to get the spring out of place.The spring has a distinct slot it fits into and it will take a toothpick and a great deal of patience to put it were it needs to go.

By the way you can use several toothpicks to hold the top in place for installation.Put a couple in place and cut them off flush with a sharp knife.Install the trigger and use the trigger pins to drive out the toothpicks.

I don't usually like posting about triggers on open forums but I bought all of Clays remaining Remington 600 triggers when he quit making them years ago.

Before someone nuts up you can use a 700 trigger in a 600 but the shoe is in the wrong location.

[thegiff]

Lynn, you are a wealth of knowledge.

[jkgts1]

Lynn, you are a wealth of knowledge.

2nd that! Great info thank you. I will have to find time to do all those things.

[ar15barrels]

If the cocking piece and the sear do not agree with each other, they may not catch unless you pull the bolt to the rear about 1/16" or so during cycling.
This is a parts issue, not a trigger adjustment issue as all the trigger adjustments are within the trigger module.
No amount of adjusting the trigger can make the cocking piece longer/shorter...

[jkgts1]

So I've been lookin at the rifle. Isit correct that the sear serves 2 jobs in the 700, cocking the firing pin and releasing the firing pin? Does the sear adjustment move the sear in the up direction allowing for a more positive purchase? I've read about "not enough sear engagment" associated with the firing pin dropping when it is not suppose to, which is not the problem I am seeing. But if it serves those 2 purposes in see how it can help. This rifle does not have thousands of rnds through it so worn parts is probably not my issue, right?

[ar15barrels]

Isit correct that the sear serves 2 jobs in the 700, cocking the firing pin and releasing the firing pin?

Yes.

Does the sear adjustment move the sear in the up direction allowing for a more positive purchase?

No.
The sear engagement adjustment moves the TRIGGER to have less or more engagement with the sear.
You can see this engagement through the sight hole on the side of the trigger module.
The sear holds the cocking piece rearward until the trigger moves enough for the sear to drop down, releasing the cocking piece.

Your lack-of-reset has to do with you not cycling the bolt to the rear at all when you are re-cocking the bolt handle.
If you cycle the bolt even 1/16" to the rear, the sear will reset in front of the cocking piece.
I offer a service I call "bolt tuning" which will also fix this issue.

[jkgts1]

Yes.



No.
The sear engagement adjustment moves the TRIGGER to have less or more engagement with the sear.
You can see this engagement through the sight hole on the side of the trigger module.
The sear holds the cocking piece rearward until the trigger moves enough for the sear to drop down, releasing the cocking piece.

Your lack-of-reset has to do with you not cycling the bolt to the rear at all when you are re-cocking the bolt handle.
If you cycle the bolt even 1/16" to the rear, the sear will reset in front of the cocking piece.
I offer a service I call "bolt tuning" which will also fix this issue.

I might take you up on that offer.