If you are really serious about wind reading buy the book
"The wind book for rifle shooters" by Linda miller and Keith Cunningham.
Your next step would be to set up at a range with some flags and a 22 at 200 yards, determine flag positions for wind speed , run a windage chart for your ammo at the 0-max speeds you think you will see, and practice hold offs for each condition. Granted you could do this with a 5.56 or a 308 but at 200 yards windage isn't too great, and you won't be penalized for guessing wrong.
Once you get 22lr down extrapolate to your caliber at longer distances.
It's always good to know the "bracket " or variances caused by various wind for the distance you are shooting, and than hold iff or dial in the required correction.
One example would be 80 grain SMK's at 2650 fps at 600 yards is about .5 Moa per mph. The trick is to determine the wind speed and direction.
A little knowledge of trig helps too, but for the most part just break wind direction into 4 variations - 12 o'clock, (0degrees) (33 degrees - 54% wind value) (66 degrees - 86% wind value ) and 90 degrees (full crosswind - 100% wind value) (sin33) (sin66) (sin90)
Once you understand all of the variables and underlying physics it's just a matter of practice, time, and money.
You could just go out and wing it, but without understanding the basics behind what you are "winging" you will take much longer to learn, and waste a lot more time, money, and ammo..and perhaps never really get there. Sure, its somewhat an art, but with all art, there is a hell of a lot of science behind it.
And once you see the bracketing required for your bullets, you will see a better ballistic coefficient gives you smaller variances per unit wind speed, which makes your margin of error less for a given unit of wind.
"The wind book for rifle shooters" by Linda miller and Keith Cunningham.
Your next step would be to set up at a range with some flags and a 22 at 200 yards, determine flag positions for wind speed , run a windage chart for your ammo at the 0-max speeds you think you will see, and practice hold offs for each condition. Granted you could do this with a 5.56 or a 308 but at 200 yards windage isn't too great, and you won't be penalized for guessing wrong.
Once you get 22lr down extrapolate to your caliber at longer distances.
It's always good to know the "bracket " or variances caused by various wind for the distance you are shooting, and than hold iff or dial in the required correction.
One example would be 80 grain SMK's at 2650 fps at 600 yards is about .5 Moa per mph. The trick is to determine the wind speed and direction.
A little knowledge of trig helps too, but for the most part just break wind direction into 4 variations - 12 o'clock, (0degrees) (33 degrees - 54% wind value) (66 degrees - 86% wind value ) and 90 degrees (full crosswind - 100% wind value) (sin33) (sin66) (sin90)
Once you understand all of the variables and underlying physics it's just a matter of practice, time, and money.
You could just go out and wing it, but without understanding the basics behind what you are "winging" you will take much longer to learn, and waste a lot more time, money, and ammo..and perhaps never really get there. Sure, its somewhat an art, but with all art, there is a hell of a lot of science behind it.
And once you see the bracketing required for your bullets, you will see a better ballistic coefficient gives you smaller variances per unit wind speed, which makes your margin of error less for a given unit of wind.



Comment