Some more questions - Savage Axis .223

[jeffafa]

Sorry for all of the "noob" questions but this is the first rifle I've owned, and first bolt-action that I have ever shot. I shot M-14's when I was in the Navy years ago.
I've shot the rifle a couple of times now, but so far only indoors at 25yds. I plan to go to a 100 yd range next weekend. Out of the box it hit paper about 4" low and 4" right. After adjusting the scope (Bushnell 3x9 that came with it) I was hitting center.
The 2nd time everything was grouping within 1" @25 yds, 5 shots, with 2 shots through the same hole 2 out of the 5 groups. This was all with Wolf Gold 55gr FMJ.

The questions I have are as follows:

1. With a 1:9 twist rate, am I correct that 55gr - 62gr is the ideal ammo? What results would you expect if I shot some 75gr ammo? I do have one box of Prvi 75gr "match" ammo but I haven't shot any of it yet.

2. How long should I wait between shots to avoid any barrel damage? So far this has all been in an indoor range. If the barrel is slightly warm but not hot to the touch on the outside is it ok to shoot or should I wait for it to cool? What else could/should I do to avoid burning out the barrel? Is there a maximum number of rounds through this barrel that I should be concerned about?

3. If I'm zero'd in at 25 yds, should I expect my shots to land a little high at 100 yds.?

4. Should I clean the rifle after every session, regardless of the number of rounds I shoot? My cleaning consists of soaked patches with Hoppes, soaked brass brush (I only push the patches and brush from chamber out the bore, unscrew it, and then repeat 3-4 times), dry patches until clean then some Hoppes lubricating oil on a patch. I use Rem oil wipes for the exterior. Is there anything I'm missing?

I'm really having fun shooting this thing, and my wife shot it just as well last weekend with me. I want to make sure that I am taking proper care of it.
Thanks in advance!

[bubbala]

you won't damage the barrel from "rapid" fire but that thin barrel will change it's point of impact. it'll show up at longer distances. and come back to zero when cool.
you can't over clean it, but most people do more damage than good. sounds like you're being careful.watch out for oil in the barrel,run a dry patch through it when you first take it out . oil in the barrel can damage it. have fun

[8200rpm]

1. The ideal ammo is the most accurate ammo that you plan on buying and shooting. Generally speaking, 75gr bullet is fine to shoot in a 1/9" twist barrel. Your particular rifle may or may not like the Prvi 75gr compared to another brand's 75gr. The gold standard for .223 is the Federal Gold Medal Match 69gr.

2. You can't shoot a bolt action fast enough to "burn out" a barrel from rapid fire. Point of impact might change from warming of the barrel, but you'll probably tire out before you do any real damage to the bore. It's not a belt-fed machine gun.

3. 25 yard zero will put you 4.5" high at 100 yards, 6.5" high at 200 yards, 2" high at 300 yards, and close to zero at 330 yards, and 10" low at 400 yards. Assuming 55gr @ 3150 FPS with 2" sight over bore.

4. You don't need to clean the rifle every time you shoot. A clean barrel might shoot to a different point of impact for the first few shots than the fouled barrel that you used to zero the scope. You can clean it when you notice your groups opening up.

[Divernhunter]

^^^^^You are wrong. You can overheat a bolt action from too many rounds too fast. I have done it. You will increase the wear at the cartridge end mostly. With heat the erosion increases.
The barrel is too hot if you cannot hold it in your hand. Let it cool then until just warm or colder.
No need to clean every time unless shooting corrosive ammo. A bit of help: Do not use an alum 3 piece rod as it will damage the bore. Also Hoppes is a waste of time and money. There are much better products now.

[jeffafa]

Thanks for the replies!

Would I be better off using Break Free CLP on the brass brush followed by the dry patches and no oil? That is what I use on the barrels of my pistols without any issues.

If I shouldn't use the 3 piece aluminum rod what are the alternatives?

[23 Blast]

You can use either a bore snake, or get a coated one-piece rod. I use those ones that have the black plastic coating with the red handles (can't remember the brand) and like them very much. They're a little pricey, but worth it.

Hoppe's #9 is fine. I used that (and still do) on many of my guns. I've started moving to using things like Slip 2000 and Froglube, mainly because of the non-toxic nature of them. I work around chemicals already - no need to inhale even more of that when I'm at home.

[jeffafa]

You can use either a bore snake, or get a coated one-piece rod. I use those ones that have the black plastic coating with the red handles (can't remember the brand) and like them very much. They're a little pricey, but worth it.

Thank you. I found a 36" Tipton one-piece carbon fiber rod on Amazon to replace the 3-piece aluminum one that I got in the little Hoppes kit.

[8200rpm]

I prefer the Tipton CF rods to the Dewey coated rods. The coating on the tip of the Dewey rods will come off over time and leave you with a nice exposed piece of steel to run along your bore.

Hoppes #9 as a cleaner and Breakfree CLP as lube is fine. Use whatever you have; I don't think it's really that critical.

Here are some videos of guys shooting 6.5x55 bolt guns rapid fire.





For the average recreational shooter, there's no need to get anal retentive about throat erosion unless you're intentionally trying to shoot hundreds of rounds of ammo as fast as you can. So, put down the stopwatch and IR thermometer. You're going to spend thousands of $$ on ammo before your wear out the throat on a $300 Savage Axis. Much abo about nothing.

You're not cultivating exotic orchids or doing some other delicate, minutiae-laden nonsense. It's a freakin gun for gawd's sake. Just shoot the thing and work on your fundamentals.

[kina]

Sling Swivels

Hi Guys,

I recently won a Savage .223 bolt action and noticed it has the bolts for the swivel, but is missing the sling swivel hardware (I believe the FFL lost them...no comment).


I see there are a lot of products out there, but I need some insights as to which hardware I should purchase for the sling swivel (brand, features etc... I'm a tad noob, so my apologies in advance)?

I've seen various manufactures - Uncle Mikes, Black Hawk, etc., but don't which to buy for this rifle. Any Thoughts?

Also, the molded stock seems ok, but I think I would much prefer a wood stock. I saw that Boyd's has after market parts for this. Does anyone know who else offers aftermarket stocks for the Savage Axis .223 (bolt actions)?
Recommendations?

Thanks!
kina

[Army]

I recently won a Savage .223 bolt action and noticed it has the bolts for the swivel, but is missing the sling swivel hardware (I believe the FFL lost them...no comment).

All the factory will give you, is the sling studs on the rifle. The FFL did not take anything.

I see there are a lot of products out there, but I need some insights as to which hardware I should purchase for the sling swivel (brand, features etc... I'm a tad noob, so my apologies in advance)?

All those makers you posted, have the swivels already on the slings. All you do, is attach them to the studs on the rifle. Most slings work and feel the same. You'll have to try them out until one is just right for you.

[rusixavhes]

You will increase the wear at the cartridge end mostly. With heat the erosion increases.