getting a 5r - what things to do first?

[RobG]

I have never lapped a quality ring; Seekins, NF, Badger, etc., and have never had an issue with ring to scope contact or tube pinch. Make sure you properly torque, ie. buy a torque wrench, and you should have no problems.

[high_revs]

kewl thanks Rob. i do have a inch/lbs torque wrench. mixed reviews on that wheeler so still looking for something more akin that size than my toolbox one.

i just remembered it in my mind the lapping thing since i've seen some pictures here i think.

[ar15barrels]

another question... lapping rings vs. no lap. i though i read here to get as much accuracy, one would lap the rings. but i heard that's not always necessary.

Lapping depends more on the base than the rings.
If you bed the base so its stress free, lapping is rarely needed.
If your base is not straight and you refuse to bed the base, lapping will fix it.

[Charlieh313]

I've been shooting my 5R 24" right out of the box with a badger 20moa rail and badger medium height rings. Harris 6-9 notched/swivel bipod and added a stock pack for a nice cheek weld and a US Optics 3.2-17 mil/mil scope. Just the way it sits it's a sub MOA shooter as long as you do your part and get your fundamentals down. I reload 155 Lapua Scenars over Varget that works great for me.

IMO just shoot it a ton...get used to every aspect of the rifle and enjoy!

[Untamed1972]

No need to true the action yet, as 700s come pretty accurate from the factory. My 700 AAC-SD shot < 1" 5 shot groups at 100 yards with the Federal GMM.

I would save the truing until you decide to upgrade your barrel and swap out the stock later on.

Definitely get a good glass, rule of thumb is at least something that cost half as much as your rifle.

My best with group with a bone stock 5r = 3/4" 5 shot group at 200yds with factory Federal Match King ammo.

[Hecktic]

I just got my 5R about two weeks ago and have put about 60 rounds through it. I love it but I am still learning how to shoot it. I have yet to get use to the 20moa mount I put on it and all my groupings are high and to the right. I have PST 6 - 24 on it but I think the reason my groupings are high is because the range I took it too was a 100 to 225yards and I think I need to go much further with this rifle. I’m going to take it out to the desert and really run it through its paces so I can get a feel for it long range. I think a muzzle break and a trigger job would be beneficial but for right now (and because I’m poor at the moment) I’ll shoot it as it is. Good luck with your 5R and I look forward ti seeing your progress with your 5r.

[Kodachrome]

OP
What caliber are you getting?
Been thinking about this one:

http://www.riflegear.com/p-1635-remington-model-700-ss-5-r-mil-spec-300-win-magnum-24-threaded.aspx

[ar15barrels]

Been thinking about this one:

http://www.riflegear.com/p-1635-remi...-threaded.aspx

We have a guy that shoots a 300mag at our matches.
Everyone dreads shooting next to him.
Everyone dreads when he shoots.

He is currently gathering components to build a 6.5mm on a short action.

If you want to "step it up" from a 308, go to a 6.5 Creedmoor.
It shoots flatter and hits harder at distance with less recoil and is cheaper to load for than 308.

[8200rpm]

another question... lapping rings vs. no lap. i though i read here to get as much accuracy, one would lap the rings. but i heard that's not always necessary. (seems to be competent who told me). Nightforce highly discourages lapping and warranty is voided if the NF rings or scope is lapped. problem is and as noted on this forum, your scope/mount is locked into only 1 particular rifle.

You might get lucky.

I had a Rem 700 Tactical, TPS base, and TPS TSR Rings. Then I bought a Wheeler scope ring alignment/lapping kit. Got all excited to lap the hell out of those rings. only to find out that they were perfectly aligned right out of the box.

[Iggy]

I had a 5R for a while and here's what I would do. I'm expert BTW, but I've learned not to be a gear ho.

Scope - I'm a big proponent of spending a lot of money here. Whatever you buy make sure the reticle and turrets match in terms of units. Frist focal plane is great but not necessary, but I can't can't go back to second focal plane scopes.

Base - Badger is fine.

Rings - I really like the NF ultra light rings. I currently have a set on my S&B and the pair weighs less than one of old rings.

Bipod - Harris BRM

Rear bag - Red Tac or something similar

Stock pack - only if you want to get fancy on this. The stock that comes with the 5R has a low comb and can benefit from a lift. I just used a sleeping pad with tape on mine.

Ammo/Reloading - Spend the rest of your money here. A fancy gun is no good without boolets.

After you shoot a few times you'll know if you need anything else. I made the mistake early on of assuming what would be "cool" or "necessary" before actually shooting; only to find out I was carrying too much weight or stuffing a closet. Trigger time is your best friend. You can do a lot with very little.

Having said that, here are a few mods that I have useful.

Detachable Mag - I'm running AW mags and it's easier to load/unload and carry ammo, but not necessary.

Sling - Helps to carry the rifle. I still need to practice shooting with one more.

Trigger - I have a Rifle Basix in mine and so far it's been great. You can use some parts off the stock trigger too (safety, bolt release).

[6mmintl]

Ill add the unthinkable by most owners and gunsmiths.

1. Remove the firing pin and polish pin/spring bearing surfaces, clean and add a couple of drops of lightweight oil, moly bolt shroud threads and cocking cam.

2. Mate up/ramp the mag box to fit receiver feed ramp, stone/polish bottom inside of machined receiver/mag feed lips for smooth positive mag feeding.

3. polish both side of bolt stop to alleviate hang-ups and smooth bolt releases.

[J-Rat]

5r

I don't own a 5R ( I kinda wish I did.)(stainless) I do own a LTR .308, When I bought it I had a vias muzzle brake installed.( when I remove the brake, I realize how much it was worth. I'm getting older)
After shooting it for a few years, I installed a Jewell trigger.
For the scope mts. I would use Talley light weight one piece mts. low's. ( I used these on my latest varmint rig. Cooper MTV 204R ) It get's the scope very close to the barrel.
On this LTR rifle I have a 20 moa rail with low rings, mk4 4.5x14x40 and I had to build up the stock to get a good cheek weld. ( If the scope stays on this rifle only, do you need a rail ? )

With reloads my rifle will shoot less than 1/2 in @ 100 and some times three into a ragged hole @ 100 yards.
Your rifle will do the same if not better.

[ar15barrels]

Ill add the unthinkable by most owners and gunsmiths.

1. Remove the firing pin and polish pin/spring bearing surfaces, clean and add a couple of drops of lightweight oil, moly bolt shroud threads and cocking cam.

2. Mate up/ramp the mag box to fit receiver feed ramp, stone/polish bottom inside of machined receiver/mag feed lips for smooth positive mag feeding.

3. polish both side of bolt stop to alleviate hang-ups and smooth bolt releases.

I do 1 & 3 when I'm tweaking a gun, but I have not fooled with #2 as I'm usually installing an AICS compatible bottom metal.
Got a picture showing exactly what you are talking about on #2?

[ERdept]

Ive read that they sometimes shoot no better than the varmint 700 with stainless fluted barrel.

It's the discard pile of bbls we are getting.

But I agree with OP on the minimal work to do plus bedding.



This looks to be a unbiased review..

http://www.snipercentral.com/milspec5r.phtml

But I've read easier to clean.


Check out Krieger's thoughts on barrels..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-5kPxE4gSY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwhOXV7lmYk

Very informational on barrels, cleaning, and the 5R, 4R, and 6R rifling.

[Khromo]

First, get your reloading gear together. You need excellent dies, good case prep tools, and some measuring tools so you can get your seating depth, case neck thickness, and run-out under control. You need to learn to use this stuff in the most effective manner.

Second, get a highly functional scope for your intended purpose, and solid rings and base. The brand is not important as long as the quality is at least good. There are some good moderately priced scopes out there, but don't be deluded by an attractive price. You can save a few bucks on the rings and base by staying away from the Internet Commando Approved Flavor Of The Week, but not as much on the scope itself.

Third, shoot it enough to figure out if the stock fits you and the way you shoot. The H S stock is very good quality and works well, but it fits some shooters better than others. An ill-fitting stock is like wearing the wrong size shoes. You can function, but you are definitely doing something wrong!

Fourth, fiddle with the trigger to figure out if it is time for a replacement, yet.

Through the whole process, test the gun and your own skills by shooting off a bench with a solid rest, often enough to test your results. This is the only way to really evaluate your reloading skills, and it is relatively cheap. The Caldwell Rock Jr. and rear sandbag cost no more than lunch with your wife, and they will suffice for most shooters. Shoot at at least 100 and preferably 200 yards so you can start figuring out if you are getting the accuracy that your circumstances call for.