Rifle sight in question

[vwgtiturbo]

Hi there, long time lurker, finally going to pick the brains of the readers!
I recently acquired a Ruger 308 and built a few ARs, but was wondering... how do I go about sighting them in? Maybe I should rephrase... how do I sight them in, being certain that the amount that they are "off" isn't operator error/lack of technique?
What distance should I use? I've read a bit about the Army 25/300 (if memory serves); is that still valid?

[CSACANNONEER]

Are you talking iron sights or optics?

[vwgtiturbo]

My apologies... scoped 308, irons on one AR, scoped second AR, and red dot (Aimpoint PRO) on the third. I've taken them all out a few times and "winged it", just sighting in for 100 but am doubting whether that was correct, or if wondering how I would know if errors in accuracy were caused by me, haha.

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[La Hire]

My best guess is to shoot a group and see where it trends to after you think you've got it zero'd. The group should do at least a little bit to separate the operator error from the rifle. If you put your group in the same area but not on the spot you are shooting at, you might assume that your zero was off. If your rounds are all over the place and you can't tell which hole you just made, it's probably operator error. Also, if you are recycling your target for a zero, use a marker or tape to note the holes you've previously made after each zero attempt.

I've heard people like 100 yard zeros for 308 and then just building your range book from that, the initial zero isn't a big deal if do keep a range book.
For the AR, it seems like a lot of people are favoring the 50 yard zero. One reason being that it also roughly serves as a 200 yard zero.

[CSACANNONEER]

Optics are much easier to zero than irons. For optics, google "one shot zero method". Anyone who zeros optics at any distance with this method and needs more than 5 rounds of ammo to fine tune their zero and confirm their zero is a moron. Don't let anyone tell you that it'll take you more than 5 rounds to have a perfectly zeroed optic. If you are around LA and need help, let me know. For irons, you can get it pretty close by pulling the upper off, removing the BCG, sighting down the barrel and adjusting your point of aim to match.

[La Hire]

What CSACANNONEER said. A good stand/rest system would be very useful with the one shot zero method.

[postal]

Agree with CSA except for bolt guns with scopes, I pull the bolt out and look through the barrel aiming it at a spot, and dial the scope over to that same spot (like what he said for AR with irons) before I even head to the range.

If you dont do that first, you might have a hard time hitting a target at all at 100.

It's also easier to get on paper at 50 yards, and do the 1 shot zero method but adjust the scope so the bullet hole is still a little more than 1/4" below the the crosshairs. When you move to 100, the bullet will still be rising, and be very close to your intended 100 zero.

[vwgtiturbo]

Awesome information, thanks a lot for that! Now if I can just get a calm weather day...

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[vwgtiturbo]

As far as AR irons, is there a preferred point of aim (six o'clock hold, etc.) Or is it simply user preference? I don't recall that from my military days a decade ago...

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[postal]

Individual preference I guess.

[vwgtiturbo]

Thanks for the feedback. I never would have thought about it, but after I bought my HK pistol, I shot it like crap for a bit, not realizing I was using the wrong sight picture. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't some universally accepted method (so that anyone, in theory, could pick up the rifle and shoot it accurately). Thanks again for all of the info!

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[CSACANNONEER]

Agree with CSA except for bolt guns with scopes, I pull the bolt out and look through the barrel aiming it at a spot, and dial the scope over to that same spot (like what he said for AR with irons) before I even head to the range.

If you dont do that first, you might have a hard time hitting a target at all at 100.

It's also easier to get on paper at 50 yards, and do the 1 shot zero method but adjust the scope so the bullet hole is still a little more than 1/4" below the the crosshairs. When you move to 100, the bullet will still be rising, and be very close to your intended 100 zero.

When it can easily be done, I consider boresighting (the old tried and true method) as part of the one shot method. But, it isn't mandatory.

[rm1911]

Bore sighting through the bore usually will get you on paper at 25. From there put the reticle on the POI and with the rifle clamped down adjust the scope to bullseye. Or just make adjustments. Remember that each 1/4" click is at 100 so it's 4 times that many clicks at 25. Shoot at 100 to confirm and be exact

For AR's set to mechanical zero. Shoot a group at 25. Adjust from there. Keep a note somewhere what the adjustments were. If you make changes later or different ammo you can always return to that battlesight zero

[CSACANNONEER]

Bore sighting through the bore usually will get you on paper at 25. From there put the reticle on the POI and with the rifle clamped down adjust the scope to bullseye. Or just make adjustments. Remember that each 1/4" click is at 100 so it's 4 times that many clicks at 25. Shoot at 100 to confirm and be exact

For AR's set to mechanical zero. Shoot a group at 25. Adjust from there. Keep a note somewhere what the adjustments were. If you make changes later or different ammo you can always return to that battlesight zero

Bore sighting along with compensating for bullet frop, should get you on a 10moa target at any distance.

[vwgtiturbo]

Looks like I need a bit more range time ;-)

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