sling stud screw popped out after installing bipod

[turinreza]

on my Ruger american ranch bolt action rifle
i installed a bipod on my front sling stud
(under the barrel)

i put the sling on it and then proceeded to hold it via the sling and
it popped out.

the stock is synthetic FDE and the screw has all the plastic around it
leaving just a hole.

any way to fix it?

I removed the chasis and noticed there are a couple of places were
you can install a swivel screw that uses a nut but it is closer to the action
and would prefer to fix the broken one.

[ar15barrels]

The factory stud probably had wood screw threads that threaded into the stock.
I think you are asaying that the plastic around the screw came out of the stock leaving a hole.
The solution would be to get a new stud with machine screw threads and install a washer and a nut inside the stock and probably a washer on the outside of the stock.

Really though, ask Ruger to replace the stock with a new one if the stud was factory installed.
If the stud was aftermarket, then the fix with washers and a nut is the answer.

[ojisan]

You can get a lot of leverage with a sling and a bipod which is why it pulled out.
If you get a new stock from Ruger it will happen again.
Upgrade like Randall said with the machine thread stud, nut and washers.
You can get a different nut and washers as needed, thread size is common 10-32.
Here's what you need, dirt cheap from China but most of this stuff is from there these days:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/373736001912?hash=item570466d178:g:zroAAOSwJAxdvTeo

[sonofeugene]

Mount a short rail.

[mtenenhaus]

Randall has awesome experience and knowledge....so i would do that first but if that's not an option for you, you might then consider using these types of nuts...i mounted a rail with a couple of them...inset inside the stock, under and not touching the free floated barrel....they work very well and are inexpensive. i don't know if you need to add epoxy but i put a dab of epoxy in there as well:

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Hardware-Fasteners-Nuts-T-Nuts/N-5yc1vZc2a4

[nickel plate]

If the stud and plastic sleeve is still useable, why not just take a small file and groove up the outer side of the plastic sleeve for glue retention and epoxy it back in? Sounds too easy!
I added a sling and bipod to my Mini-14 but in order to have them both on at the same time I needed to make a firm dedicated base for the bipod. Went with a small removeable picatinny rail held to the wood stock by two threaded brass inserts which came pre-distressed. If anyone plans to do this, use a Forstner drill bit to eliminate surface splinters when starting the hole and only drill and epoxy one hole at a time so the spacing will better match the holes in the rail.

[sonofeugene]

If the stud and plastic sleeve is still useable, why not just take a small file and groove up the outer side of the plastic sleeve for glue retention and epoxy it back in? Sounds too easy!
I added a sling and bipod to my Mini-14 but in order to have them both on at the same time I needed to make a firm dedicated base for the bipod. Went with a small removeable picatinny rail held to the wood stock by two threaded brass inserts which came pre-distressed. If anyone plans to do this, use a Forstner drill bit to eliminate surface splinters when starting the hole and only drill and epoxy one hole at a time so the spacing will better match the holes in the rail.

[divingin]

If the stud and plastic sleeve is still useable, why not just take a small file and groove up the outer side of the plastic sleeve for glue retention and epoxy it back in? Sounds too easy!

It does until you realize that a lot of thermoplastics don't allow most glues to adhere very well. Low energy plastics (Polyethylene and polypropylene are notorious for this) don't have enough unstable electron bonds at the surface to allow glues to stick. To be fair, I have no idea what they use in the Tupperware stocks, but the one that came with my 700 had a surface feel similar to HDPE.

There are some epoxies that reportedly will bond to these plastics, but they tend to be expensive (or were 10 years ago when building boat stuff), and often require flame treatment of the plastic before gluing (which is easy for surfaces; not so much for holes.)

You can get away with plugging/retapping by creating a hole that captures the epoxy plug - make it barrel shaped, and non-circular so it holds despite not adhering to the plastic.

[WOODY2]

Just follow Randall's advice.

[Bastard]

so since I just so happen to have a Ruger american ranch stock sitting right next to me - Randall is correct is has a wood threads in a plastic stock.


the hole on the left is where the sling stud was attached and while there appears to be enough room to countersink a modified t-nut in there or epoxy the hole and re-drill it... I think that by far the more simple solution would be to use the other whole witch is 2 3/8" back, and while it doesn't go all the way through the shelf that is in there with the hole already started I can't imagine it being too difficult to drill just enough to mount to sling stud against a hexnut dropped into the slot that looks like it was designed for just that purpose

[Garbcollector]

Install a short pic rail. I just did it on my cz457 in my garage very easy Install