Scope Rails

[JackEllis]

I have a 7x Vortex Diamondback scope on a Tikka T3 in .243. I'm happy with the rifle and the scope but I'm having to lean way forward to get rid of the shadow. I can't move the scope any further back because the position of the front ring, which has a lug that fits into a recess in the receiver's rail, dictates how far back I can move everything else and the scope has a relatively short tube.

I'm thinking about adding a Picatinny-style rail to the rifle, which would also allow me to quickly change out the 7x hunting scope for a higher power scope I could use in matches (note, I am not a serious match shooter) and maybe provide some elevation so I can play with steel targets out to 900 yards.

Any suggestions on a reasonably-priced rail that will get the job done?

[baih777]

I buy EGW for almost all my rifles.
If you buy from their website. You can order a extra set of screws at.the same time.

Just go to Midway or brownells. Buy a name brand. Just make sure you order for the correct tikka receiver.

$40 to $60 avg price. Competition rails over $100

[LynnJr]

Also look at offset scope rings.

[Kevin11mee]

Talley makes a good rail. Pretty much any reputable manufacturer will work.

[ar15barrels]

I have a 7x Vortex Diamondback scope on a Tikka T3 in .243. I'm happy with the rifle and the scope but I'm having to lean way forward to get rid of the shadow. I can't move the scope any further back because the position of the front ring, which has a lug that fits into a recess in the receiver's rail, dictates how far back I can move everything else and the scope has a relatively short tube.

I'm thinking about adding a Picatinny-style rail to the rifle, which would also allow me to quickly change out the 7x hunting scope for a higher power scope I could use in matches (note, I am not a serious match shooter) and maybe provide some elevation so I can play with steel targets out to 900 yards.

Any suggestions on a reasonably-priced rail that will get the job done?

Start with getting your length-of-pull correct.
Then mount your scope.
If the mount you are using will not allow the eye relief to be correct after the length of pull is correct, then you need a different mount.

Don't automatically jump to trying to correct the eye relief without first having the length of pull correct.

[JackEllis]

Start with getting your length-of-pull correct.

What's your opinion of this method? Good enough?

[ar15barrels]

What's your opinion of this method? Good enough?

Is there a link to the method?

[JackEllis]

Is there a link to the method?

There is when I pay attention to what I'm doing.

[ar15barrels]

There is when I pay attention to what I'm doing.

The idea is right but his trigger finger is not square to the trigger like it should be.

Trigger finger should be 90 degrees at the middle knuckle while the other two knuckles should be straight.
Your trigger finger determines where your whole hand should land on the stock regardless of where the grip actually is or what "feels" right.
If you have an adjustable trigger shoe, slide the shoe until a comfortable grip gives you a 90 degree middle knuckle with the other two knuckles straight.

After you have your hand on the gun right, THEN check where the length of pull is.
Touching the muscle is fine or up to 1 finger of clearance is good to allow for a heavy jacket while hunting in the cold.