Action screw torque question

[bigbossman]

Geez-Louise Slamfire..... do you have detailed pics for everything you've ever done?

I completely did one Garand, and refreshed the bedding on another and several NM M1a's. To match configure a Garand is timing consuming and the bedding is very difficult. It was more difficult with the old epoxy glues, which had the consistency of honey. I looked for the TM, but I have an old Tech Manual in which the AMU shows how they bedded the M14 action, and it was written back in the 1960's. They had to route channels in the stock sidewalls so the glue would not pour out. Now, with the thick, peanut butter epoxies, you just leave the outer wood sidewall in place because the glue will stay in place.

Yup. I had to drill/route channels, build little coffer dams, etc., to get the runny goo to stay put. I found an article that explained how to thicken it up, but I don't have it and don't remember what the explanation was.

When I was campaigning, I went ahead and bought an M1-A "supermatch" that already had the rear lug, bedding, etc. I don't compete anymore, but I still have the rifle. It is a joy to shoot, but all things being equal not competitive with the current AR-15's on the line.

You can access the many reviews when the M77 was introduced, all those shill inprint writers claiming the angled action screw was a superior method of attaching the receiver to the stock because it "pulled" the action tight. The shills were just quoting marketing, that angled action screw is worse than the 90 degree recoil lug of standard rifles. An unbedded Ruger action will slide in the stock as that action screw won't hold the action inplace, and it makes bedding the rifle difficult and time consuming.

LOL - one thing that stupid cheap Mossberg taught me..... don't buy non-conventional designs if you intend to futz with them..... and I ALWAYS intend to futz with them