First Rifle Build

[LEO Outfitters]

So I want to build my first rifle. I haven't settled on what caliber yet. What I do know is this will be my primary hunting rig. What I don't know is basically... anything else. Lightweight is my goal. Deer, elk, and wild pig is what I'm after. I want something that will efficiently do the job if I have to take a 500-600 yard shot. Nothing with a ton of recoil, as I plan to handload, so I'll be shooting it quite a bit.

What I need help with is the components. Reputable companies that make quality products. Where should I be looking? Barrels, stocks, actions etc. I want to know who makes the good stuff so I can build myself a tack driving mountain rifle.

Thanks for the advice

[mtenenhaus]

A very nice commercially available already built rifles such as the new Springfield Armory 2020 rifle sure looks promising but you mention a build so:

....Perhaps if you could provide a little more information, for example your ideal budget, preference for type of stock (chassis or more traditional stocks), one vs two stage triggers, if you wanted to stick to a Remington type action or are open to other formats, fixed vs detachable magazine etc. It would sure help.

I've read really nice things about the Lone Peak Fuzion TI action, it's pretty expensive but is very well regarded and light which might be important if you're planning to do a lot of hiking, climbing etc. If i was younger and had a large budget i'd certainly strongly consider this action.

On the other side of the equation but still well conceived actions you might consider options from Mack Brothers (Remington 700 derivative) or Ultimatum Precision actions (a Tikka derivative barreled action with a Trigger Tech trigger)...both offer more favorably priced actions. The latter offers what sounds like nice introductory pricing but i don't think they're out just yet. The Howa barreled actions one sometimes finds on sale at Brownells are particularly well priced as well and i've heard very favorable reviews.

If you're traveling to hunt then i'd probably advocate choosing a caliber that would readily be available commercially....6.5 Creedmoor is certainly gaining traction in this regard. The .270 and 30-06 are certainly good options as well especially if you're hand loading but i'd probably still give the nod to the 6.5 Cr.

There are some nice lighter barrels out their now that seem to perform well, Proof Carbon Fiber barrels.... and i just read about Bartlein producing a Carbon Fiber reinforced barrel that sounds really promising.

I'm still a fan of the detachable magazine format even for hunting but i certainly appreciate the benefit of a light weight, non obtrusive, environmentally protected internal magazine.

[sigstroker]

If you're going to shoot at an elk 500 yards away, you should have a cartridge with a ton of recoil, imo. They are huge animals with big heavy bones. A .30-06 165 gr is going under 1900 fps at 500 yards. That's like .300 Blackout at the muzzle. Nobody would pick a .300 Blackout for elk, even at point blank range.

[mtenenhaus]

Sigstroker, you make a really good point

....in addition, so much depends on the logistics of how, where and how well one hunts as well as the ethical considerations of the requisite shot and of course the physical demands of bringing home the game. i didn't envision taking such a large animal as an elk at such long distances although i guess some very athletic and capable hunters can and do? I think my friends who love to hunt elk generally do so at perhaps much shorter distances than others do, maybe 75 to 300 yards, the close the better.

For what it's worth, i found this somewhat recent article on calibers suited for elk (https://www.fieldandstream.com/12-be...r-elk-hunting/).

[JackEllis]

I have a wall full of critters, most of which have been killed with a poor man's version of the Winchester 70 in .30-06 I bought slightly used for $100 back in 1984 at under 200 yards. If you really want to drop some coin and build your own, it's your money. Personally I prefer production rifles that shoot well and don't cost an arm and a leg. Tikka, Howa, Weatherby (Howa actions) and Savage fit the bill.

As Sigstroker points out, you want a cartridge that's readily available in case you happen to leave your ammo box at home (it has happened). If you're hunting elk, moose or brown bears, .270, .30-06 or a magnum caliber are suitable but they do push back (more on that in a minute). If you aren't going after big North American game, then 6.5 Creedmoor and 7mm will get the job done. My friends in Alaska have been hunting for 50 years or more and both of them (husband and wife) use .300 Winchester Magnums for everything except African dangerous game. You can just about take down a little Kodiak sitka blacktail with a .22 but when the brown bear comes along to claim it, you may need the .300 to keep him or her from taking a swipe at you as well.

If you're thinking you can shoot anything out to 500 yards away, you're going to need a place where you can practice under field conditions (meaning there isn't a bench), with and without wind. If you're a really good marksman (I'm not), 500 yards might be realistic. I prefer to get close. If bow hunters can do it, so can rifle hunters. I've had to chase wounded animals on three occasions and it does not enhance the hunting experience.

You'll want a scope in the range of 7-9 power with a 35-40 mm objective and covered turrets. Anything more powerful limits your field of view. Exposed turrets can get moved by brush and IMHO are impractical for hunting. I like BDC reticles but they aren't necessary. Anything with a bigger objective is heavy. Lots of people concern themselves with low light performance. Before you drop 1k on a pricey scope, find out how well you can see up to 1/2 hour after sunset and as early as 1/2 hour before sunrise with a pair of 10 power binoculars or a spotting scope if you have them. You might be surprised at how difficult it is to distinguish fine features in low light. Some people can do it. I can't and so low light performance is wasted on me. Some people swear by Leupolds and that's what's on my '06 but they aren't the only quality glass manufacturer.

You'll find that felt recoil in the field is milder than felt recoil from a bench. When there's a critter in your sights, you should be so focused on the target that you won't feel much recoil at all (unless you're mounted incorrectly, in which case the scope may hit you in the head). To help avoid bruising during practice, make sure your rifle has a quality recoil pad (Limbsavers have been lifesavers for me). Wearing a jacket will further reduce felt recoil and you can also get wearable pads that help cushion recoil as well. While practicing, I use both.

[theduracellbigd]

Jack and Sig are right. You will also probably end up spending more money on the build. Spend the money you save on reloading components if you can find them and become a better field position shooter.
Buy a Winchester model 70 featherweight in a short action 6.5 CM , 7mm-08 or .308, top it with a Leupold vx3i with either a 2x8 or 3x9, and use a 1907 type leather sling and learn how to shoot with it and go practice then hunt with it. The feeling of being proficient and dead quick accurate in various shooting positions with your streamline true hunting rifle will be more satisfying and field effective then building a gun and being a bench /prone with bipod tacticool fan boy. Lastly enjoy nature and the pursuit during the hunt. You should plan on attempting shots at 200yd and in, you should sight your scope on the rifles MPBR for big game, so from 0-275yd or so, you just put the crosshairs on, and if conditions dictate and a good 300 to 400yd shot is warranted, you put the crosshairs on the animals back, that's old school but damn effective in hunting scenarios. No time to be playing with your scope whilst hunting, and I personally do not like the cluttered holdover scopes especially when most all shots on game are within MPBR.https://www.chuckhawks.com/mpbr_hunting.htm. Another trick is your scopes duplex subtension can be used for ranging big game in the event of a long shot.

[diver160651]

[LynnJr]

To build a rifle it will take more cash out of pocket than an over the counter rifle but you won't have to sacrifice on anything you want.
That's what makes a build special and the fact that no over the counter rifle will beat it in accuracy.
If your just looking for an upscale hunting rifle that will beat all your buddies on range day you can get a Bergara for around a $1000 in a slew of calibers that will meet your goals.

For a first build it is extremely difficult to use anything but a Remington 700 because of the availability of aftermarket parts. 95% of the custom actions use Remington pattern triggers and a remington footprint stock.

If your building from scratch a bare receiver runs $200 and a custom bolt runs $300 fully stuffed with all the right pieces.
A quality aftermarket barrel adds another $350 plus $200 for a very good trigger.
The stock/chassis is the biggest part of the equation and prices run from $125 for a Boyd's to well over a grand for alot of the fancy chassis.
Gunsmithing fees need to be added in as well plus don't forget about build time.
Some actions are just the 10 day waiting period and some are a year out.
The same time constraints applies to gunsmiths.

[sigstroker]

Don't look now, we may agree on something. I'm biased by the old-timer elk hunters locally, that when I first started thinking about going elk hunting, told me they used no smaller than .375 H&H magnums. Since then my buddy has kncked over a couple of them with a 7mm Magnum, but he doesn't take 500 yards shots, I think his were all at 200 or less.

I saw this Hornady promo video on the 6.5 PRC and it's got me thinking even that cartridge may be a bit light. Looks good on paper, but... He hit this elk at short range, in what looks to be right in the boiler room, and this elk still soaked up 4 bullets.

[Epaphroditus]

I'm a big fan of headshots ... my elk come in close.

[lastinline]

600 yards for Elk?
No stalking, no getting close, no real hunting skills, other than shooting from a rest.
I have no doubt it is done, and am not saying you don’t, but I’ve seen way too many game animals lost after being wounded by this kind of stuff.
This bravado started a long time ago, possibly before that runt in Montana claimed to do it with a .44 Magnum revolver.

[diver160651]

First Rifle Build

[LEO Outfitters]

I appreciate everyone's opinion. I was hoping to get some advice on components, so thank you to those with suggestions.
To those who commented on ethics, I've been hunting all my life, and consider myself to be a very ethical hunter. I did say I wanted a rifle that would be "efficient" out to 500-600 yds. I have never shot at an animal outside of 300 yards in my life. But if an animal of a lifetime appears across a ravine, or I just can't get closer without spooking it, I want a rifle/round that I can be can be confident won't just injure an animal assuming I do my part.
Again, I appreciate everyone's input. Maybe I'll just get myself a new barrel for Tikka T3 Lite 7mmRM and call it a day.

[sigstroker]

I'm a big fan of headshots ... my elk come in close.

They're curious about the nut in the hottub.

[LynnJr]

Bartlein or Kreiger barrel.
Jewell trigger.
McMillan stock.
Those components need to be adjusted for your desired rifle weight. The standard sporter barrel weighs 2.8 pounds at 24 inches and would be my limit but many will go with a featherweight barrel under 0.600 at the muzzle and shorter in length.

On the trigger you can only save an ounce by using aluminum sideplates or skeletonizing your existing sideplates and the costs involved isn't worth the savings.
Get a Jewell trigger. They run $200 and when set at a pound on a lightweight rifle this is more important than it is on a heavy target gun. If your rifle weighs 6 pounds and your trigger pull is 4 pounds you are much more likely to pull the shot off of your point of aim with the much heavier trigger.
If your rifle weighs 20+ pounds like a PRS rifle a 2 pound trigger has less affect on your muzzle.

The stock is the area of biggest possible weight savings.
You can use wood but it's generally very heavy.
You can use a laminate but they generally don't save much weight.
Next is fiberglass.
The shell is generally light and they give you a choice of light fill or heavy fill which can be a light foam material or heavy matte material soaked in resin.
Weights vary tremendously and carbon fiber is an alternative as well.
Look at McMillan,Manners and AG gunstocks in a standard pattern rifle.

I don't do the chassis type stocks so somebody else can chime in with what is available there.

On the action you can go titanium but for what they cost as compared to a 700 Remington that's a tough call.