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How to clean a CZ 750?/Bore Guide Problems

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  • Unsilenced
    Member
    • Jul 2016
    • 394

    How to clean a CZ 750?/Bore Guide Problems

    I've managed to work myself into a bit of a panic over my CZ 750 and cleaning it for the first time.

    Long story short, I bought the stainless steel .30 cal dewey rod, bore tech proof positive jag, and a sinclair bore guide.

    Unfortunately, I don't think the guide holds it tightly or centered, so the rod seems to scrape. Also, since the patch falls out the break, the jag comes back empty and is definitely contacting the barrel. There's just no way to avoid jag on barrel scrapes on the way back like this.

    Am I overthinking this, or ruining my barrel? Aside from the mythic, unobtainium Lucas bore guides, what could I use that's better? I know there's some deviation in bolt width between gun types, but actual compatibility guides don't seem to exist at all. All I can tell is that the Sinclair goes in tight, and looks like the tip is a little low, pushing my jag off-center and sometimes letting it catch on the throat.

    For what it's worth, the 750 action is identical to the 550, so if any of you have a stellar way to clean your 550 Varmint don't hold back.
    Last edited by Unsilenced; 07-15-2020, 6:57 PM.
  • #2
    LynnJr
    Calguns Addict
    • Jan 2013
    • 7958

    The Sinclair guide should have a red O-ring that seals the chamber and keeps that end of the rod aligned as well.
    The jag and patch keep that end from contacting the bore.
    If the rod is making contact with the barrel it is bending in the middle.
    Add more fluid or trim the patches so it isn't bending the rod.
    I just reread your post and you said it hits the throat. The throat doesn't have anything that should catch.
    If the adapter on the rod is catching the boreguide isn't far enough into the action.
    Last edited by LynnJr; 07-16-2020, 8:56 PM.
    Lynn Dragoman, Jr.
    Southwest Regional Director
    Unlimited Range Shooters Association (URSA)
    www.unlimitedrange.org
    Not a commercial business.
    URSA - Competition starts at 2000 yards!

    Comment

    • #3
      duckman1
      CGN/CGSSA Contributor
      CGN Contributor
      • Aug 2009
      • 3722

      Originally posted by LynnJr
      The Sinclair guide should have a red O-ring that seals the chamber and keeps that end of the guide aligned as well.
      The jag and patch keep that end from contacting the bore.
      If the rod is making contact with the barrel it is bending in the middle.
      Add more fluid or trim the patches so it isn't bending the rod.
      I just reread your post and you said it hits the throat. The throat doesn't have anything that should catch.
      If the adapter on the rod is catching the boreguide isn't far enough into the action.

      This right here.


      Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

      Comment

      • #4
        Pofoo
        Senior Member
        • Dec 2009
        • 1681

        I think you're over thinking this.
        While a bore guide is not a bad thing, I don't think you really need it if cleaning from the breach end and you have the correct patch that won't cause the rod to bend and rub.
        Pulling the jag(SS?) back without a patch should not scratch the bore, but you might want to watch the muzzle crown if the jag snags it--sleight chance of long term damage.

        Comment

        • #5
          Unsilenced
          Member
          • Jul 2016
          • 394

          Basically all long distance shooters I've found say you need the guide.

          The jag I think is what would be dragging and making the scraping sound. I think it's brass coated in nickel, based on it being described as brass but silver in color. Given that brass rods are a no-no I'm not really sure what to make of it, since it's going to be scraping along the bore one way or another.

          The jag is extra long, so it can dump the patch at the muzzle without needing to bump the crown on the way back, at least as far as I can tell. The muzzle break makes it a little harder to tell.

          Comment

          • #6
            LynnJr
            Calguns Addict
            • Jan 2013
            • 7958

            That high pitched scream means you need more fluid in the bore.

            It most likely didn't make any noise on the first pass but after it started to get clean it started screaming.

            Does that sound like what happened?

            The bristles don't hurt anything it's the carbon that sticks to them that acts like sandpaper and hurts the barrel.

            Some shooters will run the brush out the muzzle and spray it with automotive starting fluid to remove the carbon before reversing direction.

            The bore guide keeps the rod centered in the barrels breech and it keeps fluid out of your trigger assembly and away from your stock.
            Automotive clear-coat gets put on wooden stocks and fiberglass stocks and cleaning fluids can etch the finish or make it soft.
            Last edited by LynnJr; 07-16-2020, 9:02 PM.
            Lynn Dragoman, Jr.
            Southwest Regional Director
            Unlimited Range Shooters Association (URSA)
            www.unlimitedrange.org
            Not a commercial business.
            URSA - Competition starts at 2000 yards!

            Comment

            • #7
              mtenenhaus
              Veteran Member
              • Jul 2007
              • 3416

              In addition to all the aforementioned, I've been using the VFG - WEAPONS CARE SYSTEM PELLETS and have been very pleased.

              The characteristic that i'm particularly fond of is that the pellets maintain their core shape, same as that of the barrel so it maintains nice alignment throughout its course along the bore.

              I tend to use 2 pellets one on top of the second for each pass. Periodically Brownells will have them on sale, you will need the adapter as well. (this reminds me, i've got to order some more).

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