Have aTikka T3 in 243, that's seems to be copper fouling at a rapid rate, any truth to rumor that Hornaday bullets tend to foul more? Anyone tried WipeOut yet. Your expert opinions, please
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Tikka 243 copper fouling
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Tikka 243 copper fouling
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Divernhunter swears by WipeOut and Butch's Bore Shine.
I mostly use Sweets 7.62 and I've tried Boretech's CU+2. Both work to varying degrees. Interestingly enough, if I leave Hoppes #9 (for powder and lead) in the bore for 15 minutes, the patches come out with a blue tinge, which suggests there's copper in there.
I use Hornady GMX bullets in my .30-06 and typically clean for copper and powder after roughly every 20 rounds.
Still using a variety of lead bullets, including several types from Hornady, in my other rifles (including a Tikka in .243) and I've found it necessary to use a copper solvent in those as well after 100 rounds or so.
Are you concerned about the number of passes it takes to get all the copper or have you been having problems with groups opening up? -
I have yet to find anything that I'd stamp my name on that clears copper bullet fouling easily. I've had to shoot copper for hunting since 2006.
All I know for sure is rinse, brush, rinse, brush, and rinse and brush some more.
Good luck.Last edited by August; 05-14-2020, 8:24 AM.Comment
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Wipe-Out is excellent.
follow with Sweets 7.62 or Barnes CR-10
follow that with Butches Bore shine, Tetra-Gun, shooters choice or one of the Montana products or anything but #9.
Hornady bullets never gave me any problems.A 30cal will reach out and touch them. A 50cal will kick their butt.
NRA Life Member, NRA certified RSO & Basic Pistol Instructor, Hunter, shooter, reloader
SCI, Manteca Sportsmen Club, Coalinga Rifle Club, Escalon Sportsmans Club, Waterford Sportsman Club & NAHA Member, Madison Society memberComment
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I have use KG12 these days. Sweets works well but unless you can clean out doors or have industrial ventilation I would skip it. Montana extreme as well works very well but strong vapors.
being a condo dweller and having anti-gunner neighbors I prefer KG12 as i can clean in my living room with the window open and not gag myself into oblivion.
wet brush x 5 strokes, soak 10 mins, wet brush x 3 strokes, soak 10 mins then patches till clear... note however patches do not turn blue using KG12 have to look in the bore for copper traces.Comment
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If it is a new rifle/barrel, chances are the chamber job was a bit rough and will take some time to burnish out.
The only thing I have experience with hornady bullets are the ELD-M will blow up under certain conditions.
Wipe out is what I use. IOSSO brush and wipe out with the wipeout accelerator. Brush ten times, let it sit for an hour. Brush again 10 times and let it sit for maybe another hour. Brush again and then patch out dry. Gets all copper out.
IMO, to get barrels down to bare metal, you need something like IOSSO bore paste. Otherwise, some residual hard carbon make reside in the barrel. Never found it to be an issue though. Just IOSSO bore paste the barrel every 300 rounds or soLast edited by bsumoba; 05-13-2020, 8:01 PM.Comment
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Wipeout is the easiest copper removing process there is.
Let it soak overnight with the muzzle lower than the chamber and the barrel hanging off the edge of your workbench with a trash can under the muzzle to catch drips.
Use a nickel plated or plastic jag when you push the patch so you are not getting a false positive for copper from the jag.
Repeat process until NO MORE BLUE on the patch.Randall Rausch
AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
Handguns: www.handgunbarrels.com
Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Most work done while you wait on a scheduled shop visit.Comment
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I use Wipeout in my Tikka .243. I haven't noticed Hornady bullets being worse than others, but I mainly shoot Sierra 70 gr Blitzkings for varmints where lead is allowed or Barnes TSX or Varmint Grenades. I also use Hoppes before using the Wipeout to get powder fouling out. It may not be necessary but I have 2 quart bottles of Hoppes....Comment
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