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  • vintagedude88
    Senior Member
    • Feb 2009
    • 2034

    R700 Bedding

    After bedding the action, do I need to remove the excess compound under the barrel in front of the lug? Also the compound filled the gap between the bedding block and the action only around the front pillar but not perfectly filled because there are some small pockets unfilled. Do I fill those tiny pockets with compound and bed again? Should I apply compound all the way to the rear of the action? Stock is a B&C M40 sporter. I used JB Weld for compound.
  • #2
    smoothy8500
    Veteran Member
    • Sep 2009
    • 3846

    I'm going to comment on bedding in front of the recoil lug. On heavy barrels, I bed at least 1 inch in front of the lug. Some do it, others don't

    As to small voids/pinholes, it's probably not optimal but not really bad. If I had gaps or large voids I would (and have had to) grind out the bedding and start over. Gaps and voids are 1) Usually due to insufficient amounts of bedding material to begin with, or, 2) Clay dams and tape didn't control run-out. I have JB Weld, Acraglas and Devcon. JB Weld was the most difficult to use because it runs and causes voids.
    Last edited by smoothy8500; 04-16-2019, 10:34 PM.

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    • #3
      vintagedude88
      Senior Member
      • Feb 2009
      • 2034

      So is it okay to add more JB Weld and rebed again the parts (rear tang) that didn't get filled the 1st time?

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      • #4
        ar15barrels
        I need a LIFE!!
        • Jan 2006
        • 57119

        Originally posted by vintagedude88
        After bedding the action, do I need to remove the excess compound under the barrel in front of the lug? Also the compound filled the gap between the bedding block and the action only around the front pillar but not perfectly filled because there are some small pockets unfilled. Do I fill those tiny pockets with compound and bed again? Should I apply compound all the way to the rear of the action? Stock is a B&C M40 sporter. I used JB Weld for compound.
        You can leave the bedding forward of the lug but it will need to be removed if you rebarrel as it will not perfectly match a replacement barrel.

        Post a photo of what you are talking about for the rest of the questions.
        Randall Rausch

        AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
        Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
        Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
        Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
        Most work performed while-you-wait.

        Comment

        • #5
          ar15barrels
          I need a LIFE!!
          • Jan 2006
          • 57119

          Originally posted by vintagedude88
          So is it okay to add more JB Weld and rebed again the parts (rear tang) that didn't get filled the 1st time?
          It's better to grind out and re-bed all at once.
          It's best to use too much bedding compound and let the excess squeeze out than to try to fill in voids later.
          Randall Rausch

          AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
          Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
          Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
          Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
          Most work performed while-you-wait.

          Comment

          • #6
            Trakker
            CGN/CGSSA Contributor
            • Oct 2008
            • 967

            Originally posted by ar15barrels
            It's better to grind out and re-bed all at once.

            It's best to use too much bedding compound and let the excess squeeze out than to try to fill in voids later.


            I prefer marine tex. Just the right consistency and easy to rework.


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

            Comment

            • #7
              vintagedude88
              Senior Member
              • Feb 2009
              • 2034

              Originally posted by ar15barrels

              Post a photo of what you are talking about for the rest of the questions.
              See pics.



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