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I'm fairly certain I'm going the least hassle route with 6.5 CM. For matches, I would just use factory ammo, to take one variable out of the equation. I'd probably try to replicate the load for practice, to save money.
Makes sense. There seems to be a lot of positions where the bipod won't even be used on it's feet, like the cow gate, or roof peaks, etc.
I see. Makes sense.
Often when we see guys shooting off the bipods, on the bench or prone it is with either a much lighter system or larger caliber than you see in positional matches. These certainly take more shooter drive (bipod load) to see impacts than your 6mm positional gun. BUT, I think most people hear "load the bipod" they just WAY over do it. You'll often see guys using devices on a bench like a rug, or when shooting prone a matt that has a bi-pod damn or maybe just crazy spiked feet. This is usually a sign that these guys are over driving (over loading) the bi-pod to start with. These guys will see the crazy offsets when they change their load pressure.
So the short answer to your first question is, no. But you're onto the correct logic in my opinion, trying to make both as close as possible. I do not free-recoil my bipods, nor do I on obstacles, but I try to stay consistent with just enough load or shooter in the gun so I can self-spot.. I think most positional guys try for the same, but some are free-recoiling.
So the short answer to your first question is, no. But you're onto the correct logic in my opinion, trying to make both as close as possible. I do not free-recoil my bipods, nor do I on obstacles, but I try to stay consistent with just enough load or shooter in the gun so I can self-spot.. I think most positional guys try for the same, but some are free-recoiling.
Scope Shading or shadowing, is slang for an old LR technique used especially when adj. parallax "side knobs" were not so prevalent. Prior to that, many were on the objective bell. If you were on the gun in final position, like in a hide, it was difficult to use. So you could pull your head back ever so slightly and reveal a shadow around the edge of the ocular. If you keep that shadow perfectly even around the edges it means you are looking straight thru the scope tube and that will aid in constancy and offset the parallax issues. I'm not suggesting run in a F-class or BR mach like that, but it is effective even today for some uses. You could probably run an entire mach positional mach using 400 parallax setting and still be fine. It is super fast but a bit crude.
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