Barrel Contours

[JackEllis]

I already have a Tikka T3 Lite in .223 for pest (squirrel) control that'll get its third outing in a couple of weeks. Last year I didn't have any problems with barrel heating in March or May because I'd swich off between the .223 and a .22lr but I'm still somewhat interested in another .223 with a heavier, longer barrel. I won't be dragging this thing around in the woods so weight won't be a big issue.

A 24" barrel would give me about another 120 FPS. A heavier (thicker) barrel would allow more shots before getting too hot (and then it would need more time to cool down). A longer barrel might be slightly less accurate. I reload and I'd probably need a different recipe for the second rifle, which would be a bit of a hassle.

What am I missing and what, if anything, is wrong with my thinking?

[hermosabeach]

Take a look at barrel by the inch. They chrono a load and then chop the barrel and repeat

[MongooseV8]

As long as you get a quality barrel and it's installed correctly the length wont have a noticeable affect on accuracy. For a 223 I like 26" myself.

[hermosabeach]

Here it is. Ballistics by the inch

http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/223rifle.html

[hermosabeach]

Small critters need accurate shots. 22 LR inside of 100 yards and bigger for longer


I would prefer 2 of the same setups. Same load, same ballistic drop calculator

I might suggest stepping up to a higher power varmint load- 22-250 or the bench rest loads 6mm br or 6.5 creedmore.

Much easier to hit something the size of a Red Bull can at 500-600 with a round designed for accurate shooting at that distance.

An additional 100-300 FPS from a longer barrel does not mean much for longer shots.

22-250 is another 700 FPS faster

6mmbr and 6.5 creedmore have better ballistic coefficients to reach further.....

[hermosabeach]

http://www.6mmbr.com/index.html

[baih777]

I already have a Tikka T3 Lite in .223 for pest (squirrel) control that'll get its third outing in a couple of weeks. Last year I didn't have any problems with barrel heating in March or May because I'd swich off between the .223 and a .22lr but I'm still somewhat interested in another .223 with a heavier, longer barrel. I won't be dragging this thing around in the woods so weight won't be a big issue.

A 24" barrel would give me about another 120 FPS. A heavier (thicker) barrel would allow more shots before getting too hot (and then it would need more time to cool down). A longer barrel might be slightly less accurate. I reload and I'd probably need a different recipe for the second rifle, which would be a bit of a hassle.

What am I missing and what, if anything, is wrong with my thinking?

24" heavy barrel, 1/9 twist, reload 50 or 52 gr bullets for squirrels.

[Divernhunter]

I have a rem 700 in 223 I bought new in 1969-70. It has/had a bull /varmint barrel. It sold as a varmint model. I have shot so many squirrels that I shot out the barrel. I grew up on a ranch and neighbors let me shoot on theirs also. A few years back I had to rebarrel it. I went with a SS barrel and it shoots great again. Just need some squirrels to kill.
It had and I replaced it with a 24" barrel. I use to shoot it often and took squirrels at 400+ yards often with 55gr Hornady SX bullets and 27grs of Win748 with a CCI mag primer in Mil surplus brass. I would use 28grs in commercial brass.

I suggest you get a heavy/bull/varmint barrel that is 24 or 26" long in 223 and go for it. My new barrel is 1-10 twist and shoots 36 and 50gr Barnes VG bullets into one hole as well as my 55gr Hornady bullets. My son-in-law has a Howa with a slower twist(1-12 I believe) and it works fine with the 36gr VG and 55gr lead core but is a shotgun with the 50gr VG.

You can be real happy with a 223. It also will not heat up as fast as the 22-250 or wear out barrels as fast. Same can be said for a 243/6mm.

[michaelthepsycho]

Get a fluted 22" bull barrel if you want heat dissipation between shots.

For the price of a new barrel, you can probably pick up a cheap Savage 12 FV. Always a reason to get another rifle.

[sigstroker]

You can get a Howa in Grendel for under $350. Rebarrel to .224 Valkyrie once you wear the Grendel barrel out. Or before.

[JackEllis]

I would prefer 2 of the same setups. Same load, same ballistic drop calculator

I might suggest stepping up to a higher power varmint load- 22-250 or the bench rest loads 6mm br or 6.5 creedmore.

Two copies of the same rifle does have its advantages. I've got a .243 I'm itching to use but some land owners are not comfortable having shooters use anything larger than a .223. Apparently they've suffered holes in too many pipes and lost too many cattle.

I suggest you get a heavy/bull/varmint barrel that is 24 or 26" long in 223 and go for it. My new barrel is 1-10 twist and shoots 36 and 50gr Barnes VG bullets into one hole as well as my 55gr Hornady bullets.

Rebarreling with something longer is a possibility. I got surprisingly good test results with Hornady 55 grain FMJs and 19.7 grains of IMR 4198 in the Tikka. Very accurate plinking round. I've been using VMAX bullets for squirrels and they shoot pretty well too.

For the price of a new barrel, you can probably pick up a cheap Savage 12 FV. Always a reason to get another rifle.

How does the Savage shoot? I have one in .22lr and it's good for squirrels to 100 yards.

What I need more than another rifle is less snow right now and more places to shoot the rifles I have.

Thanks for all the replies. They've been very helpful.

[DArBad]

I already have a Tikka T3 Lite in .223 for pest (squirrel) control that'll get its third outing in a couple of weeks. Last year I didn't have any problems with barrel heating in March or May because I'd swich off between the .223 and a .22lr but I'm still somewhat interested in another .223 with a heavier, longer barrel. I won't be dragging this thing around in the woods so weight won't be a big issue.

A 24" barrel would give me about another 120 FPS. A heavier (thicker) barrel would allow more shots before getting too hot (and then it would need more time to cool down). A longer barrel might be slightly less accurate. I reload and I'd probably need a different recipe for the second rifle, which would be a bit of a hassle.

What am I missing and what, if anything, is wrong with my thinking?

I've read that longer barrels are comparatively speaking more susceptible to barrel " harmonics ", which negatively affects accuracy. How much of an effect (there is a long detailed explanation involving physics and metallurgy).....is way beyond me. This is also where, as the explanation goes, fluting the longer barrel becomes advantageous.

[JackEllis]

Here it is. Ballistics by the inch

http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/223rifle.html

There's also The Truth About Barrel Length, Muzzle Velocity and Accuracy, which I had read before, and Experiment: effects of barrel length on velocity and accuracy, by Addison Mohler, which I am reading now. Skipping to the end of the second article...

If I am looking for a precise barrel that is lighter, easier to maneuver and more aesthetically pleasing I would have a strong argument for a 23-inch barrel rather than a 26-inch barrel.

This test does not support the second part of the hypothesis presented. The data collected does not show any improvement in the precision of the rifle/barrel as it was shortened. A different experiment and different design would be needed to further test this hypothesis.

Interesting stuff.

[dpr]

I've read that longer barrels are comparatively speaking more susceptible to barrel " harmonics ", which negatively affects accuracy. How much of an effect (there is a long detailed explanation involving physics and metallurgy).....is way beyond me. This is also where, as the explanation goes, fluting the longer barrel becomes advantageous.

Long range benchrest rifles generally use an un fluted barrel around 28". F Class rifles run 28"-32" barrels and are a hell of a lot more accurate than the average really good squirrel rifle.

[NorCalFocus]

I've read that longer barrels are comparatively speaking more susceptible to barrel " harmonics ", which negatively affects accuracy. How much of an effect (there is a long detailed explanation involving physics and metallurgy).....is way beyond me. This is also where, as the explanation goes, fluting the longer barrel becomes advantageous.

You read another internet myth. Yes a long skiny barrel will flex more that a short stubby one, thats simple truth. But that doesn't mean that it will be more accurate.

First, most guys running 24"+ barrels are not running them in a pencil profile. They're running a Rem Varmint or similar profile that gives the barrel more spine. Then longer barrels means more speed, more speed means, better wind deflection, better wind deflection shows up the further down range you go.

You can't just take a simple statement of shorter barrels have more spine so they'll be more accurate. There is way more involved in that than just the barrels spine. This internet myth was made up and spread by guys who needed to make an excuse for running 18"-20" .308 barrels on their AR's.