CALLING ALL GLOCK SMITHS

[Slugz]

Went to the range today with my brand new G30 SF and had a range of issues with ejection of brass and what seemed to be a very inaccurate pistol. Im not a novice shooter and this is not my first rodeo with the glock platform, neither is it my first rodeo with glock in .45acp. Brass was ejecting straight at our heads for my son, me, and my girl. Some rounds even shot to the left! Though some also shot where they were supposed to but not with much "oomf". They kind of dribbled off to the side a bit. My 1911 launched brass a solid 8 feet as usual for my g21s when i had them. My son stove piped numerous rounds but he was limp wristing it i think. My girl and i never had any failures. Just ejection issues. I checked the extractor and ejector and can't see any glaring issues in their shape or wear patterns, but the inside of the ejection port definitely has some scratches from brass contacting it. The spent casings look a little funny to me but it may just be me looking too hard into it because of the issue. Any suggestions on what may be?

[Slugz]

Here's a pic of some brass it fired. It left a bit of a char down one side of the brass. Almost like some gas escaped down the side of the brass. Not sure if I'm just being paranoid and this is normal, but i noticed it and i know my 1911 didn't leave the brass like that.

[Port Authority]

Glocks are combat guns w/ space for extra dirt in the chamber.

Most stock barrels will leave powder burns on the outside.

Mine do.

Maybe your chamber is a little too loose?

It's hard to tell so early in the first thousand rounds.

Try some different brands.

Federal AE45A is a/the benchmark 230gr at 890fps loading.

If those give you trouble, you might really have some trouble.

The brass to the face is usually a dtiff spring that restrains slide speed too much.

Typically 45 Glocks are lightly sprung so they will cycle weak range fodder, and they can take a hard bottom out at the rear of the motion.

Look for weak loadings like Federal Champion w/ the small primer.

It is loaded down a bit, as are many other factory loads.

I think your spring will soften up just that little bit soon and everything will be fine.

My Glock 36 and 41 both had a little trouble at first.

And now my girly grip has no effect on reliability.

Port

Oh, not an armorer, but I don't play one on tv.

[Slugz]

That's what we used. Along with magtech

[obscura101]

I would send it back to Glock

[dennis1979gm]

That federal range ammo is super light loads. Mag tech in my experience has been loaded pretty descent. Stay away from federal range and burgundy box from Walmart for the first 500 rounds to get the recoil spring to settle in a little. After that it should digest anything. My 30sf does it just doesn't eject weaker loads with much authority but all eject to the right and about 3-4 o'clock.

[Raider888]

I don't have any problem with my two 30SFs and my buddy's 30.
They are very accurate.
Have someone else shoot it.
Maybe you are not use to a sub compact frame.

[SocomM4]

Wait, I'm confused.

I thought it was "Perfection" , right out of the box?

Send it back, based solely on your word (which may or may not be trustworthy), it's obviously not perfect.

Ha.

[Slugz]

I just know my 1911 ran it all fine and it has heavier than stock springs and is a much heavier pistol.

[tbc]

CALLING ALL GLOCK SMITHS

I am just repeating what stated in the third post. Your Glock probably has a stiff spring and therefore would require hotter ammo. The slide must cycle at a faster speed for the casings to eject positively. Stiff spring together with limp wristing are not a good combination also.


Sent from my VP9

[Port Authority]

Glocks have run perfect from the first shot.

Get familiar w/ taking it down and really polishing it, except the sear.

I got grit out of the striker safety and the extractor spring holes in the slide.

Work a little Flitz polish on a bit of copper Chore Boy wrapped around a bamboo skewer and run it in the holes with a drill ... or roll it between your palms.

These parts are meant to run dry and this will slick them up nicely.

I use a mere film of molybdenum Marine grease for all the lubrication.

It turns the 'tick' into 'tock' and won't absorb moisture, or drool into your holster.

Clean (w/ electrical contact cleaner), polish, clean(again) and lube and then see if you have any problems.

Keep the EC cleaner off the plastic.

Port

[73 RB-Z]

Never had a single issue with my G30SF feeding anything. Even my very first reloads running .2 grains below the minimum spec'ed charge (I was being cautious). It still cycled and conveniently left the brass on the shooting bench.

Mine will shoot factory ammo all day long. If I recall, mine also scorches the side of the brass. Never thought much of it.

The 25 cent trigger job was a worthy time investment. I also bought a smooth face trigger for comfort, the Glock extended slide stop, and the Brass Stacker stainless recoil spring assembly.

Hundreds of rounds later and the trigger is better than ever. I use a 6 o'clock hold at 15 yards. If I do my part, the gun will easily stay on a 6" shoot'n'see @ 15 yards.

Like others have said, yours could have a stiff recoil spring or something could be up.

[USPSA GM]

<< Get familiar w/ taking it down and really polishing it, except the sear. >>

So they will run perfectly every time as long as you take them apart and polish everything? So what you are saying is they are perfect ...... after you fix them?

By the way, Glocks don't have sear's.

[RobG]

Try some different ammo. If that does not work, send it in. Any new gun that needs work/polishing/parts to function reliably is not worth keeping, IMO.

[gsparesa]

Here's a pic of some brass it fired. It left a bit of a char down one side of the brass. Almost like some gas escaped down the side of the brass. Not sure if I'm just being paranoid and this is normal, but i noticed it and i know my 1911 didn't leave the brass like that.

I don't think this is a problem. From my reloading experience, I found that slower burning powders tend to seep gases along the side the case. Faster powders quickly expand the case and seal it quicker to the barrel chamber. My CZ 75B tends to do this a little. It has never effected accuracy or made a dirtier gun.