best trigger for glock17gen4

[gotbenafitz]

im interested in upgrading my stock trigger in my g17gen4. ive been looking at the zev tech fulcrum triggers but i would like to know more about upgrading the triggers in general before i purchase anything. any info helps. thanks!

[CAGLS]

On my Gen 4 Glock 30, I smoothed out machining lines off the edges of contact surfaces by sanding with 3M aluminum oxide 400 to 800 grit sand paper, then polished those areas with Flitz polishing compound and a felt wheel on my Dremel. I rounded the firing block plunger to remove the edge that the trigger bar rides over then mirror polished it. The inside surface of the trigger bar where it slides over the connector was mirror polished and the edges deburred. The connector contact edges were smoothed out and polished. On the striker the front face of the tab that sticks up where the end of the trigger bar cross slips off and releases the firing pin are two important areas for your trigger break. You don't want to change any angles in this area, just smooth and polish the engagement surfaces without changing angles.

This cost me nothing and it has considerably improved the trigger on my Gen 4 Glock 30. After the polishing, even with stock springs the trigger pull weight seems perfect for HD or SD purposes. You don't want to remove any pretravel for HD or SD. For a range or competition gun it would be ok but for HD or SD I feel it would be unsafe.

[Click Boom]

Put your g17 slide on your g34 frame

or just change to the lighter Factory connector.

[tonyxcom]

I put Taran Tactical's connector/spring kit in my Gen 3 and 4 17/34's and they work really good. A little better in the Gen 3.

This kit doesn't address the pre/over travel of the trigger but those things are secondary to the trigger break.

I've found that just about any kit with a "3.5" connector has the potential to feel pretty mushy with a factory striker spring, the real magic happens with the lighter striker spring. While there is some creep, you won't notice it when shooting at speed. Taran's kit uses a slightly heavier spring that most trigger kits. No light strikes on factory PMC and AE ammo so far, and I did really good with it at my first IDPA match yesterday (3rd overall).

If you are looking to improve your slow fire paper shooting, learn the factory trigger. Dry fire, dry fire, dry fire. Trust me on this. The only reason I moved these Glocks to non Glock trigger springs was because they are my game guns now. The Taran kit is suitable for a range gun, but I would stick to factory Glock springs in a HD/CCW gun.

If you are dead set on a complete trigger kit, there are less blingy and cheaper drop in kits by Vanek, DK Triggers, Glocktriggers.com to name a few.

[DRAB_81]

Upgrade your trigger finger, leave the trigger alone. Take whatever money were going to spend on an aftermarket trigger, and buy ammo and/or professional training.

[himurax13]

On my Gen 4 Glock 30, I smoothed out machining lines off the edges of contact surfaces by sanding with 3M aluminum oxide 400 to 800 grit sand paper, then polished those areas with Flitz polishing compound and a felt wheel on my Dremel. I rounded the firing block plunger to remove the edge that the trigger bar rides over then mirror polished it. The inside surface of the trigger bar where it slides over the connector was mirror polished and the edges deburred. The connector contact edges were smoothed out and polished. On the striker the front face of the tab that sticks up where the end of the trigger bar cross slips off and releases the firing pin are two important areas for your trigger break. You don't want to change any angles in this area, just smooth and polish the engagement surfaces without changing angles.

This cost me nothing and it has considerably improved the trigger on my Gen 4 Glock 30. After the polishing, even with stock springs the trigger pull weight seems perfect for HD or SD purposes. You don't want to remove any pretravel for HD or SD. For a range or competition gun it would be ok but for HD or SD I feel it would be unsafe.

This. I find that with some polishing work on the trigger parts, the pull becomes smoother and I have lost between 2 to 3 pounds off the trigger pull while keeping all of the stock parts.

I also found that I prefer the Dot disconector instead of the minus disconnector. I fell that it has a slighlty nicer break even though it is a tad heavier.

Maybe I should send you a box of parts and let you polish all of them on your free time.

[teflondog]

Polishing the internal contact points and a lot of dry firing does the trick for me. The dot connectors in the Gen 4 Glocks aren't that bad.

[tonyxcom]

The Dot connector in a Gen 3 is fantastic.

[gotbenafitz]

I put Taran Tactical's connector/spring kit in my Gen 3 and 4 17/34's and they work really good. A little better in the Gen 3.

This kit doesn't address the pre/over travel of the trigger but those things are secondary to the trigger break.

I've found that just about any kit with a "3.5" connector has the potential to feel pretty mushy with a factory striker spring, the real magic happens with the lighter striker spring. While there is some creep, you won't notice it when shooting at speed. Taran's kit uses a slightly heavier spring that most trigger kits. No light strikes on factory PMC and AE ammo so far, and I did really good with it at my first IDPA match yesterday (3rd overall).

If you are looking to improve your slow fire paper shooting, learn the factory trigger. Dry fire, dry fire, dry fire. Trust me on this. The only reason I moved these Glocks to non Glock trigger springs was because they are my game guns now. The Taran kit is suitable for a range gun, but I would stick to factory Glock springs in a HD/CCW gun.

If you are dead set on a complete trigger kit, there are less blingy and cheaper drop in kits by Vanek, DK Triggers, Glocktriggers.com to name a few.

if i were to get a taran's kit, would you recommend also getting a lighter factory spring?

[tonyxcom]

Yeah it comes with 2 trigger springs and two striker springs. They are spares.

IMO, the parts in order of importance.

1. Connector
2. Striker Spring
3. Trigger Spring
4. Plunger Spring
5. Stainless trigger housing pin

The plunger spring only influences the feel of the take up, where the other 3 parts effect the trigger all the way to the break. I suppose the steel pin is used to add some consistency over the plastic pin, but its probably not a difference that can be felt.

I've also switched out my Gen 4 trigger bars with Gen 3 bars, although the difference can be minimal depending on your particular gun. But there is a little bump on the side of the plunger ramp that can end up riding the inside of your slide causing some drag. Again, the amount depends on your gun.

I would still really advise you to learn to shoot with the factory Glock trigger. You will become a better shooter for it. An upgraded trigger without fundamentals is just a crutch. Sure, your groups will tighten a bit since the effects of your anticipation flinch won't be as great, but you will still be slow. Once you've got the fundamentals down, the upgraded trigger will allow you to shoot small groups at speed.

[Whatisthis?]

Upgrade your trigger finger, leave the trigger alone. Take whatever money were going to spend on an aftermarket trigger, and buy ammo and/or professional training.

I'm a firm believer in this upgrade as well.

[tonyxcom]

Yes, I agree. But I was talking with regards to the parts in the kit

I've also added a second part to my reply above.

[ExpendableYouth]

Ghost makes a really nice kit for $30. I used a 3.5lb Rocket trigger kit which was really nice for range drills, but I changed it to 5lb tactical because I wanted a nice range and home defense setup.

[tonyxcom]

Ghost makes a really nice kit for $30. I used a 3.5lb Rocket trigger kit which was really nice for range drills, but I changed it to 5lb tactical because I wanted a nice range and home defense setup.

In which case all stock springs with a Minus connector is the way to go.

[thegamettt]

at first I wanted a whole new trigger too, but I just added a ghost connector, zev spring kit, and its good to go now.