Tips on smoothing 1911 slide?

[gdr_11]

My new Springfield Fully Loaded SS 1911 has a pretty rough metal-to-metal feel when working the slide back and forth. The gun shoots well, but I would like a smoother action without waiting to shoot 1,000 rounds. I have ordered Enos' Slide Glide to see if a better lube helps, but would really like to polish the metal contact surfaces. I have heard that using Flitz or jewelers rouge and then manually working the slide a few hundred times will polish the contact points.

Would like input from you 1911 jockeys on what you recommend. (And please no "You should have bought an Ed Brown, Wilson, etc.)

[leelaw]

When fitting a 1911 slide to a frame I use a frame file, and then 600 grit, and then 800 grit lapping compound, as seen here: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...NG%20COMPOUNDS

Since the slide and frame already fit in your case, I'd skip the file and 600 grit, and go straight to the 800 grit.

Be forewarned: this will remove the finish on contact surfaces.

[Kruzr]

Before you break out the files, mix some oil or CLP with some J&B Bore shine. Fill the tracks in the slide and with a stripped frame, work the slide back and forth. This takes a while so find something to watch while you work the slide. This will lap the surfaces together and smooth them.

[BRO]

+1 on what Kruzr said and firing about a 1000 rds through her would do a nice job lapping that slide. Your pistol is solid the way it is and unless your buiding a new pistol from mixed parts, I would stay away from files and componds.

[MT1]

Buy some machinist's dykem and paint the slide rails rack the slide several times to check for any high spots - post up a picture of what you see. Can you get any lateral movement on the slide? Strip the gun and just run the slide through the rails and see if it's the same feel all the way through.

[Ledbetter]

I would dl what Kruzer suggested, or take the pistol all the way apart, put some Flitz in the slide rails and slide it back and forth until it feels smooth.

I would not use sandpaper.

Some people shoot their new 1911 with no lubrication in the rails for about 100 rounds to polish the surfaces against one another.

[USN CHIEF]

+1 on what Kruzr said and firing about a 1000 rds through her would do a nice job lapping that slide. Your pistol is solid the way it is and unless your buiding a new pistol from mixed parts, I would stay away from files and componds.

+1 on this and what Kruzr said those are the only reasonable options for the OP to take.

[gdr_11]

Thanks, Flitz and J&B it will be!

[Rust]

Make sure to clean every last little bit of polishing compound out of the rails after you're done, and don't get any into the internals. You don't want any of that stuff getting on any of the other moving parts no matter how fine a compound you're using.

[Kruzr]

Make sure clean every last little bit of polishing compound out of the rails after you're done, and don't get any into the internals. You don't want any of that stuff getting on any of the other moving parts since no matter how fine a compound you're using.

Which is why you should strip the frame when you do this. When all is done, I spray everything down with brake cleaner and then rub oil on the surface.

[Mikeb]

And don't use silicon oxide grinding compound. It's the grit that keeps on grinding...
Mike

[oghl888]

Stainless guns have been known to gall in the rail area. Don't work the slide back and fore too many times without checking for galling periodically. The roughness is not uncommon on new guns. My first 1911 felt like sand paper when new. An hour or so of working hand cycling with periodically and generous amount of 5W30 motor oils took care of it.

The hand cycling wears the surface down, especially the rough areas. Do this without the recoil assembly and barrel --- much easier on the hand. The generous amount of oil carries the wear particles away, and kept the smooth parts from wearing down. You can also wipe away the oil initially --- the wiping takes away the large metal particles much more thoroughly.

[Kruzr]

Stainless guns have been known to gall in the rail area. Don't work the slide back and fore too many times without checking for galling periodically.

It would have to be dry before it could start galling. It's also very rare to see any galling with modern alloys used in guns.

[Beelzy]

Try GunSlick.

It comes in a little tube like Neosporin and is THE ticket for SS firearms like
yours. No worry about ruining anything and you can use it all the time.

[rayra]

Don't let your instant gratification miswiring make you screw up your pistol.
Break it in the proper way, by using it.