Flash hider removal

[OmegaTrader]

I'm trying to replace this oem flash hider with the one from KAK industry but not quite sure which direction to turn. For AR15, I think it's right hand, correct? I've done one earlier with the Sig P556 Swat and it went great. That was right turn, and it took less than 5 minutes.

On this DB15, it took me over 30 minutes and I have a feeling that something isn't right. Not sure what happened here. Is there any possibility that AR15 sometimes have left turn model like the AK? I hate to rush and do something stupid that may ruin the gun.

[SkyHawk]

First you mention right HAND then you mention right TURN. Threads are referred to by hand - which is typically opposite of the direction required to turn to remove. Don't get it twisted (see what I did there )

AR 15 is typically a RIGHT HAND thread, which requires you to turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE aka TURN LEFT to remove. Perhaps it was installed with red loctite or something. It will be hard to get a barrel block on that barrel unless you remove the floating rail. Even if not secured with loctite, I would not try to remove the hider without clamping the barrel in a block.

[jchen76@gmail.com]

Hopefully it's not pinned/soldered on, which happens on 14.5" barrels to make it 16" complaint rifle. Large wrench and if you have buddy with AR vice block that's even better. Heating the flash hider may help loosen it.

Or take it to gunsmith, spend $10, free removal/install if you buy a new muzzle device from a shop.

[OmegaTrader]

Thanks. But this is a pistol. I don't think they pinned it.

[OmegaTrader]

First you mention right HAND then you mention right TURN. Threads are referred to by hand - which is typically opposite of the direction required to turn to remove. Don't get it twisted (see what I did there )

AR 15 is typically a RIGHT HAND thread, which requires you to turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE aka TURN LEFT to remove. Perhaps it was installed with red loctite or something. It will be hard to get a barrel block on that barrel unless you remove the floating rail. Even if not secured with loctite, I would not try to remove the hider without clamping the barrel in a block.

How hard is it to remove the rail? Any special tools needed?

[heidad01]

First you mention right HAND then you mention right TURN. Threads are referred to by hand - which is typically opposite of the direction required to turn to remove. Don't get it twisted (see what I did there )

AR 15 is typically a RIGHT HAND thread, which requires you to turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE aka TURN LEFT to remove. Perhaps it was installed with red loctite or something. It will be hard to get a barrel block on that barrel unless you remove the floating rail. Even if not secured with loctite, I would not try to remove the hider without clamping the barrel in a block.

^^^^This. He must know machining conventions.

Remember "righty tighty, lefty loosy" Most all thread is cut right handed. That means clock wise turn to tighten and counter clockwise to loosen. Left handed threads are by far less often seen and used unless for special purpose use.
Use a heat gun on only the muzzle device (not the barrel) before you start turning. You can also google your brand of barrel and muzzle device and see the spec. Any shop worth their name will indicate a left handed thread. If there is no indication, then it is most likely right handed.

[beanz2]

Right hand threads:

To move the threaded object in the direction of the thumb, turn it in the direction of the other fingers (use your right hand, LOL)

The left hand works for left hand threads too!

[bohoki]

i got a wideners upper and that hider wouldnt budge i had to hammer on the wrench

[SOCOgunguy]

Reaction Rod.. it's $99, but it will last you forever and you'll have a tool for almost any barrel/muzzle device application.

[heidad01]

OP, I am no AR expert by any means but I just looked at your first picture again and something else comes to mind. If that shiny spot on the muzzle device is not the result of you wrenching on it, it may be where they pinned, welded and ground the weld spot.

[SkyHawk]

How hard is it to remove the rail? Any special tools needed?

Not sure, check this thread http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/634...rd_PLEASE.html

I doubt the flash hider is pinned because it is a pistol and minimum barrel length is not a concern. But take a good look before you go wrenching on it too hard . Good luck!

[fmunk]

In addition to what's already been mentioned, application of heat can help. Metals expand at different rates, that can help loosen the two components just enough from one another. Heat can also help break down any thread locking agent that may have been used. Use a heat gun.

Furthermore, mechanical leverage, use a long breaker bar with your flashhider/brake wrench.

[fmunk]

Reaction Rod.. it's $99, but it will last you forever and you'll have a tool for almost any barrel/muzzle device application.

Magpul's BEV vise blocks does the same job and more, at half the price.

[OmegaTrader]

OP, I am no AR expert by any means but I just looked at your first picture again and something else comes to mind. If that shiny spot on the muzzle device is not the result of you wrenching on it, it may be where they pinned, welded and ground the weld spot.

It was the wrenching mark, not that of a weld. But I got your point.

In addition to what's already been mentioned, application of heat can help. Metals expand at different rates, that can help loosen the two components just enough from one another. Heat can also help break down any thread locking agent that may have been used. Use a heat gun.

Furthermore, mechanical leverage, use a long breaker bar with your flashhider/brake wrench.

As far as heat goes, should I use a torch or a heat gun? Speaking of heat gun, I don't find it useful much. My $40 heat gun bought from HD isn't any better a hairy dryer.

Magpul's BEV vise blocks does the same job and more, at half the price.

I got the block. Taking if off shouldn't be a problem though now that I understand it. However, removing the floating rail may present a problem though. I've look carefully but couldn't find any screw where I can just simply unscrew and slip the rail off. Does that mean it needs some kind of tool to remove? Like someone here said, it's hard to remove the flash hider w/o taking off the rail. I think that's a must in this case, unlike the Sig where I simply clamp the whole thing down in a vise.

[fmunk]

It was the wrenching mark, not that of a weld. But I got your point.

As far as heat goes, should I use a torch or a heat gun? Speaking of heat gun, I don't find it useful much. My $40 heat gun bought from HD isn't any better a hairy dryer.

It would be safer to use a heat gun. Got a Harbor Freight near you? cheap and works well. Mine is 6 years old and still working as new.

I got the block. Taking if off shouldn't be a problem though now that I understand it. However, removing the floating rail may present a problem though. I've look carefully but couldn't find any screw where I can just simply unscrew and slip the rail off. Does that mean it needs some kind of tool to remove? Like someone here said, it's hard to remove the flash hider w/o taking off the rail. I think that's a must in this case, unlike the Sig where I simply clamp the whole thing down in a vise.

Need a better look at the rail to know what you are dealing with. You've got enough barrel sticking out of the handguard. Shouldn't need to remove it at all unless you are replacing it too with something else.