Polishing Stainless Steel 1911

[GREASY357]

Thanks for the guide c&r :thumbup:

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[traveler1952]

Do it your self or find a local chrome shop, Disassemble first.

[C&Rcollector]

Do it your self or find a local chrome shop, Disassemble first.

Yes, to all do-it-yourselfers.

Completely disassemble the firearm before commencing. I mean completely, not just field strip.

[CAGLS]

Here's polished SA loaded member SFOGUN polished himself:

[C&Rcollector]

Here's polished SA loaded member SFOGUN polished himself:

I think that's the best jeweling job I've seen on a barrel in a long time. What a lost art. Simply beautiful!

[GREASY357]

Love the jeweling on that barrel and trigger, what's the full thread for that I wanna see more!

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[postal]

I think that's the best jeweling job I've seen on a barrel in a long time. What a lost art. Simply beautiful!

I know a guy here in Riverside that is well known for jeweling. He hasnt worked on a firearm before that I know of... but high end work for a number of different industries.

[JTROKS]

Polishing is easy it's removing all that deep brush marks that's a PITA. The flat area you can use a flat glass, full sheet of Emery Cloth. Run the sides first using 800 grit for a little bit and you'll see the lines that needs sanding off. You'll be amazed how many of those lines the brush finish conceals.

[bigdawg86]

I used mothers mag polish and a Dremel polish wheel and some good ol elbow grease.... I have two deep scratches I don't know how to approach though

[bsg]

i can't see parting with almost $500.00 to have a handgun polished.

[postal]

I used mothers mag polish and a Dremel polish wheel and some good ol elbow grease.... I have two deep scratches I don't know how to approach though

The link provided, although not a pro, is actually pretty accurate about what is going on and how to deal with it.

Deep scratches need to be removed with sandpaper of the appropriate grit to get them out. Then move up through the grits to a final finish.

This stuff is not complicated. A deep scratch has to be sanded out. then finer grits and finer grits until you reach the final finish you desire.

I do not use 'mag polish' for anything. I use quality sand paper from 3m or gator grit then move up to buffing compounds either clay bar on a buffing wheel or 3m liquid polishing compounds. "perfect it" , 'Finesse it' and swirl removers.

Your example of going straight to 'mothers mag polish' is like someone dressing up a fancy piece of military cannon brass showpiece just using 'brasso'.

It could be done... if you feel like spending 3x's the time necessary since you dont know how to do it right...

Even so... you say you have scratches you still dont know how to fix... so more like 6x's the time.....

You treat it the same as automotive clear coat. The same steps. The same grits.

Here is a 'self portrait' of me on the back side of one of my guitars painted with automotive paints, and custom airbrush, then automotive clear. You can clearly make out my face in the reflection of my guitar. Follow the correct procedure outline above, this is what you can do. (My home made version of a Dave Mustaine double neck king V) Obviously I have that little oval cover plate upside down since the blue flame pattern under my face doesnt match.... This is a real pic of what it actually looks like. I dont know how to use photoshop, and this old lap top wouldnt be capable of running it.

[enzo357]

Probably would just send it to Techplate. They do great work. Reasonable turn around. Fair prices.

[JohnCCW]

For heavy pimping a 1911-
I prefer Hard Chrome.

[RR.44]

I polished a 6" GP100 with a green clay block and my 1/3 HP Craftsman grinder/polisher.

[Wicked Pete]

I had a Govt. 1911 all chrome (used in parades/honor guard), "Property of U.S. Government" stamped on the side. Oh no.

Sold it for $200, like to kick myself in the head for that.