CZ-75 SP-01 SAO with CGW Parts

[Shooshi]

First time doing modifications on my own. I used all CGW parts and Dave was amazingly helpful on the phone with a few questions I had. I still need to adjust the pre/post travel of the trigger, but here is a before and after picture.



Added:
Competition Race Hammer w/ Adjustable Sear
SAO Flat Trigger
13# Hammer Spring
11# Recoil Spring
Extended Firing Pin
S-Spacer
Floating Trigger Pin

Removed:
Firing Pin Block
Firing Pin Block Lever
Firing Pin Block Lever Spring

Gonna test it out this weekend and I'll report back how everything is!

[Tok36]

Very cool. Looks like it came together well.

Did you hit any bumps during the installation?

May it shoot flawlessly!

[Cadre]

Sexy!

[Shooshi]

Very cool. Looks like it came together well.

Did you hit any bumps during the installation?

May it shoot flawlessly!

The biggest problem I had was taking out the hammer strut (bought the CGW punch) since a regular one may end up breaking when taking out that pin. I spent a lot of time getting the trigger spring to stay in place whole putting the trigger pin back. I had to make this contraption to help with getting the hammer pin out.

[BEE]

Nice work! Looking forward to hear your range results.

[FUBAR]

Was there any fitting needed? If so, can you elaborate? Thanks.

[davidwow]

They have a 1911 strip down block available at brownells. I bet that would help as there are several holes for punches to go through.

[n2stackin]

They have a 1911 strip down block available at brownells. I bet that would help as there are several holes for punches to go through.

or you can just buy the one from CZ Custom...

http://czcustom.com/czbenchblock.aspx

[Shooshi]

Was there any fitting needed? If so, can you elaborate? Thanks.

There really isn't any fitting issues if you get the adjustable sear. I was told that if you don't get the adjustable sear, you may run into a fitting issue where your manual safety won't function anymore. The new sear comes with a screw that let's you adjust it so that you don't lose any functions in the manual safety. My new trigger has a really tight fit in the hole it comes out from above the trigger guard. I'm hoping it goes away after I break it in with dry firing and range time.

[davidwow]

or you can just buy the one from CZ Custom...

http://czcustom.com/czbenchblock.aspx

Yeah but everyone should own a 1911 too

[Shooshi]

Was there any fitting needed? If so, can you elaborate? Thanks.

There really isn't any fitting issues if you get the adjustable sear. I was told that if you don't get the adjustable sear, you may run into a fitting issue where your manual safety won't function anymore. The new sear comes with a screw that let's you adjust it so that you don't lose any functions in the manual safety. My new trigger has a really tight fit in the hole it comes out from above the trigger guard. I'm hoping it goes away after I break it in with dry firing and range time.

[Shooshi]

or you can just buy the one from CZ Custom...

http://czcustom.com/czbenchblock.aspx

I didn't realize the hammer pin was gonna be that tough to take out. Also didn't realize something like this existed.... Haha

[himurax13]

The biggest problem I had was taking out the hammer strut (bought the CGW punch) since a regular one may end up breaking when taking out that pin. I spent a lot of time getting the trigger spring to stay in place whole putting the trigger pin back. I had to make this contraption to help with getting the hammer pin out.

I have found this to be typically troublesome as well. If you have the CGW starting punch, I reccomend placing the assembly on concrete and place the pin right over a seam then give the punch a good hit with a ball peen hammer. I have been able to knock those pins out in one hit. I would also reccomend having a strong magnet nearby just in case you can't reach the pin once it comes free.

There really isn't any fitting issues if you get the adjustable sear. I was told that if you don't get the adjustable sear, you may run into a fitting issue where your manual safety won't function anymore. The new sear comes with a screw that let's you adjust it so that you don't lose any functions in the manual safety. My new trigger has a really tight fit in the hole it comes out from above the trigger guard. I'm hoping it goes away after I break it in with dry firing and range time.

When you add a competition hammer the sear leg that touches the safety may sit to far away for proper engagement. The allen screw on the adjustable sear will eliminate that problem once it is set properly. The other advantage to the CGW sear is that is tougher than the stock one and should last a long time with the CGW hammer.

You could lightly stone or sand the trigger hole to remove any burrs and to smooth out those areas. I typically sand that area, the area where the trigger bar slides on, and where the hammer sits when I do an action job. Basically anyplace that has moving parts in the frame gets some love.

I am guessing you are not using this for competition since the mods you performed prevents it from qualifying for any divisions that I am aware of. If this is strictly a range plinker, then you should be good to go.

[Shooshi]

I have found this to be typically troublesome as well. If you have the CGW starting punch, I reccomend placing the assembly on concrete and place the pin right over a seam then give the punch a good hit with a ball peen hammer. I have been able to knock those pins out in one hit. I would also reccomend having a strong magnet nearby just in case you can't reach the pin once it comes free.




When you add a competition hammer the sear leg that touches the safety may sit to far away for proper engagement. The allen screw on the adjustable sear will eliminate that problem once it is set properly. The other advantage to the CGW sear is that is tougher than the stock one and should last a long time with the CGW hammer.

You could lightly stone or sand the trigger hole to remove any burrs and to smooth out those areas. I typically sand that area, the area where the trigger bar slides on, and where the hammer sits when I do an action job. Basically anyplace that has moving parts in the frame gets some love.

I am guessing you are not using this for competition since the mods you performed prevents it from qualifying for any divisions that I am aware of. If this is strictly a range plinker, then you should be good to go.

Yeah this gun going to be strictly range and target practice.

If it turns out I want to make it a competition gun, what do you guys suggest I would need in addition to what I already had?

[himurax13]

Well all you would need to do is swap in the competition or shadow hammer, reinstall the firing pin block, add a Disco type 2, and an 85 combat trigger. You should be legal for SSP and production at that point.

Of course you will need to learn how to manually decock and how to shoot in Double action mode for the first shot.